Quick 328 Water Pump Replacement Questions | FerrariChat
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Quick 328 Water Pump Replacement Questions

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by carlrose, Nov 3, 2006.

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  1. carlrose

    carlrose Formula Junior

    Nov 25, 2003
    327
    #1 carlrose, Nov 3, 2006
    Hello everyone,

    A bit of unscheduled maintenance this month - water pump leaking through the bleed holes when warm. I have a new pump with gasket in hand & plan to replace this weekend:

    1. Pulley removal #1: intend to loosed nut with impact socket while still on car (and held with belt) - is this a good idea?

    2. Pulley removal #2: to actually separate the pulley from the old pump, I was going to drill a 1x4" piece of wood, split lengthwise to form a guillotine-like support, suspend in my vise, and rap the center shaft with a plastic mallet. Thoughts?

    3. For reinstallation of pulley, I am planning to transfer woodruf key, swap pulley over, then torque. I cannot find a listing for torque on this nut? Suggestions to hold pulley while on bench?

    4. I plan to use a small bit of hylomar on the new gasket; is there a time I should allow to dry before refilling coolant?

    5. WSM lists tensioner and water pump cover torques of 18lbs. Will I need to retorque in a few days (or after engine warm/cool cycle)?

    Any other tips I should know about? (searched quite a bit of the archives and Ric Rainbolt's old site already). As nothing else is leaking, I was not planning on pulling housing and replacing under-plenum hoses. And (of course!) I just changed the coolant about 45 days ago.

    I'll document and photograph this procedure.

    Appreciate the help,

    Carl
    1988 328
     
  2. MARQ

    MARQ Formula 3

    Feb 9, 2002
    1,924
    East Coast US
    Full Name:
    Marq
    #2 MARQ, Nov 3, 2006
    Carl,
    I certainly hope that someone can help you out on your queries. After all the help, guidance, and write-ups you've done over the past years that have helped me out so much, I'm just sorry that I can't be the one to give you the answers. Thanks, again, for all you've done..and I hope someone more knowledgeable than me will answer you soon.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    #3 Rifledriver, Nov 3, 2006
    1. Yes
    2. That would work but they are "Usually" not very tight. I can usually get away with supporting the pulley with my extended fingers and tapping the shaft and pump downward with a plastic mallet.
    3. Reverse of #1
    4. I dont use Hylomar on anything. I happen to use silicon for that but even dry is OK.
    5. Most important part. Those pump housings are so easily deformed. Most people have no idea how little 18lbs. is but it is all that is needed to hold it on. I have never found it nes. to retorque.

    Pull the lower housing if for no other reason than to replace the O ring. It is very easy and makes doing the pump gasket clean up much easier.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #4 Steve Magnusson, Nov 3, 2006
    Sure that's reasonable, but also use your (gloved) hand to also hold the pulley/belt (in a way that is safe in case things rotate) to add some more mass/damping to the event.

    I think it's a reasonable slip fit -- at least I don't have a memory of it being a pain ;) You've got the drill --- support the pulley as best as possible with something non-marring and drive/press the shaft out.

    It seems these guys never wrote anything down in two places ;) -- from the 308GT4 WSM:

    nut for water pump shaft
    12x1,25
    6 Kgm (43 ft-lb)

    It's not a huge torque, as Brian said, do the same thing (belt+hand) and do the final torquing in place.

    I've never found a specific need to do this either.
     
  5. flyingboa

    flyingboa Formula 3

    Nov 27, 2003
    1,564
    Italy
    Full Name:
    Eugenio Dalla Rosa
    #5 flyingboa, Nov 3, 2006
    Just something on #5.
    When a nut/bolt requires a specific torque and is used on a vital area that is subject to vibrations / solicitation, it is always required to perform a re-torque.
    Usual figure used in the aeronautic industry is to perform the torque check after no more than 10 functioning hours but not before 5 from the installation.
    Ciao
    Eugenio
     
  6. carlrose

    carlrose Formula Junior

    Nov 25, 2003
    327
    #6 carlrose, Nov 4, 2006
    Thanks Mr. Crall & Mr. Magnussen for the help. I'll start this morning.

    Marq, I'll forward you a copy once I write up.

    Best,

    Carl
     
  7. MARQ

    MARQ Formula 3

    Feb 9, 2002
    1,924
    East Coast US
    Full Name:
    Marq
    #7 MARQ, Nov 5, 2006
    Thanks, Carl...as always.
     

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