For those who have a QuickJack, which version did you choose? where do you lift the car, at what anchor point ? thanks for all answers Cédric Image Unavailable, Please Login
Courtesy of Dave .....no longer a member. He suggested using hockey pucks to fill the C channel at each of the lift points. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah, thanks, it’s point for simple Jack, but with a lift, it seems that it’s possible to have others points. I look for the PDF by Dave, is it this one ? http://ga68.free.fr/autre/FERRARI-348ts/Ferrari_1998_355_Lift-Jack-Points_REV000.pdf
*modified hockey pucks to fit the channels. BL5000. Standard jacking points. Ramps needed to get the jacks underneath my car. The car is still too low with the rubber blocks fitted on top of the jacks. Also, the rubber blocks crush the plastic underbody panels if you’re not careful. i.e. the panels which run slightly inboard of the door sills. Lots of adjustments to be made to get the jacks in the right spot. Can only be fitted one way. i.e. when the car goes up, it moves slightly to the rear (if I remember correctly) I believe the later models are slightly better (SLX).
Thanks, do you have non-return valves? Let me explain: if you interrupt the climb before the first safety, you remove your finger from the Up button, what happens? the QuickJack comes down?
Little or no drop when you take your finger off the button. I think there is no safety other than one close to the top. It only lifts the car 24 inches. You probably wouldn’t use it any lower than this. I use jackstands as an extra safety precaution (fitted inside the Quickjack)
This is just to know if when adjusting the rubber wedges or the hockey pucks during chassis contact, it is possible to lower the QuickJack to readjust ?
Yes. Depending on how fast you jab the down button, you can position the jacks within a few cm's, but note that there may be slight height differences between the left and right. Also, if you do have the car on ramps (or planks of wood) with a few centimeter clearance, because the jack moves backwards as it rises, you have to estimate where the rubber blocks will contact the jacking points.
I have the 5000SLX and lift it under the C-channels, however the front is slightly tilting up which is a bit annoying, i have the optional extension frames also and will try the green areas above to even out the uneven weight balance more, otherwise QJ is a great product.
if you let go of the button it stays where you left it. Goes down when you tell it to go down. But without stops its not save to be under there, same with any lift, only use it with the stops engaged. I did engine out with it.
No. Those are jacking points only to lift one corner of the car at a time. If you were to set the car on a lift on those points, the car could flip off backwards. Very unstable. Scroll down to see the proper points for hoist lifting.
Please..I'm trying to keep somebody safe while lifting a car AND it being worked on. If not set up safety and as stable as possible..a person could be killed. I service these cars for a living..every damn day of the week. If I thought it was safe to set up on the jacking points..I wouldn't have said anything. But with 25 years fixing and abusing all manner of Ferrai's and Lambos..I think I have enough experience to share some safety advice.
These are the best spots for the Quickjack and if you pay attention to where my hockey puck is, you’ll realize it’s right there. My car has been on the lift like this for over a year. It’s balanced.
I have the 5000, and lift at the green unibody points in the photo in post 9. Works great, but you do have to fiddle with the jacks and where you place the blocks on the jack a bit to get everything to line up just so.
The hockey pucks, we can perhaps hold them with Velcro and then raise the QuickJack to be sure that we are on the anchor points??? No ? I really want to buy the 7000. In my garage there are Swistrax tiles on the floor, they are 1.8 cm thick, if I install the 7000 without the tiles and I add a tile to each wheel , I will be 3.6 cms higher. The difference between the 5000 and the 7000 is 1.3 cm higher for the 7000. The rest is exactly the same. the difference is largely compensated, I gain another 2.5 cms. What do you think, is it worth it? the 7000?
If you use the newer model 5000TL it works but theres only a narrow window of where it works. Like less than an inch of wiggle room. You will need varying height blocks to clear all the underbody obstruction. Basically you need the lego blocks they provide but its shorter ones in front and taller ones in back and the back ones will sit at an angle in the channel to line up with the underbody angle detail. If your not right on the spot the jack will interfere with the front tires during the lift. It barely clears it when its right. The issue is the new TL model forces your jack points farther apart than the older models. So to answer your question no you wont be using the factory jack points. You will use a safe lifting area in the front closer to the tire and also to the rear where the angled under body detail is. Careful though there are some screw protrusions under there to work around. Its ridiculously tight to make it work as in it takes me a good 20 minutes working by myself of back and forth laying on the floor to make sure its right AND square. but it does work.
Yeah I see the screws, and beware with the break harness…no very easy I think, the first time… always afraid to make a bulshit ! the 7000 is 3cms wider perhaps the Lift will be more easy. @ShineKen please If you have time… Now you said that your car is up since one year… you found the good anchor points ! Make me please pictures in front and the rear about the hockey pucks
