If the 7000 is longer it may not work at all. The lift pivot comes very close to interfering with the front tire. You literally have the lift as far back as the channels will allow for the blocks to sit in and still have it clear the front tire. The setup is easier with the lift a little farther forward buy you quickly realize when lifting you are hitting the tires. Every time I set it up I tell myself I'm going to make some type of jig to make next time easier.. then I don't and next time is a pain. At this point I know the challenges so it's quicker since the trial and error of how to make it work is done. It's just a matter of getting it in the known spot... still a pain. The low clearance of the car makes it harder. You pretty much need to lay on the ground to eye it in. And then it's a work out since you are up and down 20 times back and forth getting it perfect. Having a helper and 2 tape measures could make it a 5 minute job.
Some caution if your car is mid engine. I have a 308 and the Quik Jack works great, but I found that reversing the jacks and running the hoses to the rear is a better idea. When I raised my car the first time and out of curiosity pushed down on the rear bumper..............what happened was pretty scary!!!!
The QuickJack team says that you have to position the pistons towards the engine, the 7000 has the same length as the 5000 within a few millimeters… the 5000 Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login It looks like this when done in the only way I found that works. Proof that it works anyway. I've done everything from replacing headers, wheel bearing, to rebuilding the fuel pump, replacing fuel lines, fans, etc with this setup.
Congratulations, I’m wrong, there are 2 cms different…do you think it makes the lift perhaps impossible ? Because of tyres ?
I have the 5000TL. Which lifts a little higher than the older units. The photo above is at max height.
Regarding what blocks you need I can't tell you as I think I got my kit from costco and it came with an assortment of extra blocks. They look like lego bricks some are short and some are taller.. All I know is I used taller ones in back and shorter ones in the front. And the under body clears the quick jack frame by about a hair when under load. As in it almost looks like the car is resting on the jack frame but it isn't.
With a little ingenuity and the extended truck lifts I bet you could the engine out with this setup. A super low profile dolly. Getting it back in though not so sure. Too chicken to try.
With that said, with mine the only things I wouldn’t be comfortable doing is anything directly underneath the center of the car (except oil change). There’s room… I just feel iffy about being underneath the car like that. I have no intention to do an engine out either, so my setup works just as intended so far. The quick jack works wonders. The pros of not having to go with the heaviest duty version is weight and size. I’ve transported my quick jacks from place to place putting it in the back of my Rav4. Also, at the highest locked height, it’s just about right where I can conveniently work underneath the rear and work from above the engine bay without having to constantly raise and lower. Was ideal for removing/installing exhaust components, particularly the Y-pipe where I was constantly coming from under and over. Of course a stool solves this problem as well. I do use my Race Ramp blocks as temporary stools to stand on at times.
No in circled areas. The front of the lift arm is close to the tire when on the ground and when it pivots swings up will interfere with the tire. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I tried removing the center (large) undertray and I couldn’t do it. The Jack isn’t on the undertray, but it’s tight around there and due to size and jack points it’s difficult to wiggle out. The undertray also needs to drop a little to clear the studs it mounts to before sliding out. Just figured I’d throw this out there if someone feels the need to remove that piece. My guess is you’d need to remove the undertray with the car on the ground before setting up the Quick Jack. Front and rear undertray pieces are no issue.
@Zamboniman308 and is it possible to install the QuickJack a little more on the rear? after… sure QuickJack is touching rear and front tires ? Is not it ?
If it doesn’t touch the tires when you slide the Jack in to set it up, you’re good. Non-issue. Most of the weight is in the rear, so the more you can move the setup back, the better.
He also set it up in a different direction than mine. I have my up/down control unit from the rear. His is from the front. When I raise, the car is moving forward towards the front. His should be moving towards the rear. Shouldn’t matter which way you set it up. Just know the car moves forward or backwards depending on how you decide to set it up. Just make sure the locking mechanisms are accessible from the outer sides.
Yeah I read that, you right, i have space arround the car, no problem, it will be cool I will see again between 5000 and 7000 if the 2 cms of difference could bored me
when I see this video, the 5000 can hold over 5000 pounds...lol the 7000 is heavier, more difficult to handle, the choice is made