QV Engine & Gearbox inspection and preparation for efi | Page 2 | FerrariChat
Buy

QV Engine & Gearbox inspection and preparation for efi

Discussion in '308/328' started by pshoejberg, Apr 26, 2025.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Page 2 of 2
  1. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #26 pshoejberg, Jul 24, 2025
    Cams are going out tomorrow. Invested a couple of hours on a boxing project in a attempt to get them there in one piece:rolleyes:. Heads are already slightly ported. Nothing scientific but just smoothened out together with the intake runners. Valves will remain stock.

    Best, Peter

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Ferraripilot likes this.
  2. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,830
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    #27 mk e, Jul 24, 2025
    Sorry, 1 more cam question...are they regrinding? Or just want to be sure the new cams fit?

    You are making me think its past time to get out to the shop and fix an engine :)
     
  3. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #28 pshoejberg, Jul 24, 2025
    :) It's new cams. He just wants to be absolutely sure they fit my engine configuration. I considered regrinding but it's not that much cheaper and there are some downsides I don't like.
     
  4. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,830
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    #29 mk e, Jul 24, 2025
    It should be wonderful when its done!...a little more power, a little snappier/rev happy, and generally more fun.
     
    pshoejberg likes this.
  5. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #30 pshoejberg, Jul 28, 2025
    So I'm killing a bit of time while waiting on the custom made spares. Got the differential assembled with new bearings and completed painting of the harmonic dampener and installation of the 60-2 teeth trigger wheel. Also started putting the gearbox together again. Then I discovered that the blow by oil / air separator was severely corroded in the bottom half of the canister. Actually, the bottom stud broke off when removing the hose. These cans are NLA for the 308 QV and I couldn't find any used QV cans and I'm also reluctant to buy a used one that can suffer from the same disease. I therefor decided to make a small project and see if I could rescue the existing can. I cut off the bottom, bought a small piece of 1.5 mm wall thickness exhaust pipe and a 48.3 mm piping end cap that I turned down to fit the canister OD. Then I welded it all together and gave it a good layer of epoxy base coating. Next up is internal POR15 tank coating and some black external paint. Very cheap project but a bit time consuming:rolleyes:

    Best, Peter

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Ferraripilot and flyngti like this.
  6. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
    Owner Project Master

    May 10, 2006
    17,964
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    John!
    #31 Ferraripilot, Jul 28, 2025

    I had a very similar solution installing a 60-2 wheel! Very sturdy arrangement
     
  7. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #32 pshoejberg, Aug 5, 2025
    Hello all. I good a recommended "Sport" cam profile from the supplier today as can be seen below. Does it look as one should expect? I would appreciate any input and /or comments. Bear in mind that my goal is to how have a easy drivable but more powerful engine.

    Original cam:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Custom cam

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Best, Peter
     
  8. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,830
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    #33 mk e, Aug 5, 2025
    My personal thought, for what ever that is worth, is that with basically stock heads, intake and headers that is probably about as aggressive as you want to go. I think you could add another 10 degrees of duration and it would still drive and idle fine but you'll likely be losing low end to gain top end you just can't access so kind of pointless. So I think its a pretty good recommendation for the the camshaft professionals.....which i guess should not be a surprise since it is their job :)
     
  9. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #34 pshoejberg, Aug 5, 2025
    Thanks a lot for your considerations mk e - much appreciated and along with my thoughts. Good low end behavior and is high on my wish list. Not that aggressive lift either which will make my valve train last longer. I even think it should be ok to use the standard valve springs but I need to check that further. I'm serious considering to push the button on this one:)

    Best, Peter
     
  10. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #35 pshoejberg, Aug 5, 2025
    On another note, then I have come to the point where I'm out of engine work:rolleyes: The gearbox is fully assembled, and the engine is assembled to the extent possible with the re-chromed liners and cam drive installed. I also completed the manufacturing of the coil on plug system. Now I'm awaiting the delivery of a set of conrods and new cams before the build can be completed.

    Best, Peter

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Newman and mk e like this.
  11. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Apr 1, 2004
    16,488
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    #36 smg2, Aug 5, 2025
    Good conservative cam profile. The only thing I'd look at it is the ramp rate against the stock springs to make sure that the stock spring rate can manage the forces. Modified heads? Valves, etc..
     
    Ferraripilot and pshoejberg like this.
  12. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,830
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    #37 mk e, Aug 5, 2025
    I really like the COP setup....what coils are those and how did you make the wire covers?
     
  13. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #38 pshoejberg, Aug 6, 2025
    The wire covers are basically just a milled powder coated aluminum bracket to keep the coils from popping out. It's an added precaution because the coils are thoroughly locked in the holes and onto the spark plug by friction. The wires comes in from the opposite side as shown below. The coils are from Bosch and widely used. They are slightly modified with an added aluminum sleeve with a o-ring for centralization and locking. They are also extended with 10 mm to make the stickup suitable for engaging the connectors. There is a bypass drilled across the o-ring to vent any pressure buildup to atmosphere. BTW the cams are ordered:)

    Best, Peter

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    smg2 likes this.
  14. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
    Owner Project Master

    May 10, 2006
    17,964
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    John!
    #39 Ferraripilot, Aug 6, 2025
    Pretty ok conservative cam profile, not much lift though. Stock springs will likely be fine for this as that profile is not too far off from the early 76-77 2v cam profile, which actually has a bit more lift but similar duration.
     
    pshoejberg likes this.
  15. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #40 pshoejberg, Aug 7, 2025
    I hope you're right John. Cat Cams recommended to check if the springs can handle the lift with at least 1mm spring reserve from coil bind. If that's the case then I think I will give it go with the standard spring set up. If I need to change springs then I will consider to look into a less heavy tappet system and so on.

    Best, Peter
     
  16. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Apr 1, 2004
    16,488
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    #41 smg2, Aug 7, 2025
    On all the QV builds I do it's a requirement to update the buckets to shim under. Drops considerable weight and helps with more aggressive ramp rate cam profiles. If you do acceleration force calcs on the factory cam profile and valve/bucket/shim mass you'll find that the spring rate is just enough to handle that mass. Increasing the ramp rate pushes that envelope to where the mass has the potential at anything over 6.5k rpm to exceed the spring force. Add in air ram column effect and floating a valve is possible at 7-8krpm with the more aggressive rates.
    But you'd have to run those calcs on the grind you choose to see if it's a problem.

    Stock valve train is heavy compared to modern setups
     
    Newman likes this.
  17. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #42 pshoejberg, Aug 7, 2025
    I see your point smg2. Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge and / or simulation software to do these kind of calculations. I'm a mechanical engineer with a degree in thermodynamics and (Unfortunately) not in engine building. I do remember the title of one of my the German class room books called "Kolben Maschinen" and it was part of the pensum but other than the title of the book it's all long gone :). Anyway, regardless of the math it makes perfect sense to look into another more modern and light weight bucket / shim system. I will spent some time reading up on "shim under" systems while waiting on my spare parts.

    Best, Peter
     
  18. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,830
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    #43 mk e, Aug 7, 2025
    You can math it yourself or my favorite solution...just ask the cam people want you need and do that :)
     
    pshoejberg and smg2 like this.
  19. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Apr 1, 2004
    16,488
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    #44 smg2, Aug 7, 2025
    BMW shares the same bore on the buckets, don't recall off hand the model or yr but any after market mfg for shim under buckets should have the correct bore dia to match the QV. Where it gets tricky is the post length and valve tip, keeper clearance etc. But it's doable.
     
    pshoejberg likes this.
  20. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Apr 1, 2004
    16,488
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    #45 smg2, Aug 7, 2025
    Of course that requires that they know those things... Hopefully.
     
  21. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #46 pshoejberg, Aug 10, 2025
    I invested some time in a dummy installation of the main wiring harness. The main purpose is to see where and how I can support the cables to protect them against wear, dirt and heat. Also installed a few of the sensors to check for fit. Next step will be to hook up the efi control box, fire it up and start checking the wire harness and supply and signal lines to every each connector.

    Best, Peter

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    rwbolt1 likes this.
  22. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Apr 1, 2004
    16,488
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    #47 smg2, Aug 10, 2025
    Looks good. Doing them as sub harness? Makes future engine pulls a breeze. Just disconnect the sub from the main chassis and yoink the engine with the electrics.
     
  23. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #48 pshoejberg, Aug 10, 2025
    I have designed the harness so it can be pulled all the way from the trunk and coiled up on the engine. I was a bit old school when I constructed the harness last year and wanted to minimise potential connectivity issues by minimising the amount of connectors. I’m now aware that there are high quality “firewall” connectors available so I might choose to modify the harness next time the engine is pulled.

    Best, Peter
     
  24. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 22, 2007
    1,877
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Peter H
    #49 pshoejberg, Aug 10, 2025
    The harness is 3 legged. First leg following the firewall between the trunk and the engine room connecting to the crank sensor, the digital lambda sensor, air inlet temperature and cooling tank temperature. Leg number 2 is following the cooling hose from the cooling tank to the engine centre bay connecting to all the remaining engine sensors, coils and injectors. Leg number 3 is connecting 3 of the existing original sensors and the tach signals to the original harness in the car.

    Best, Peter
     
Page 2 of 2

Share This Page