R12 to R134a conversion on a late Testarossa?

Search the archives for R134a & conversion. I've posted a fair amount of detail a couple of years ago.

All A/C systems are pretty much the same. So are conversions to R134a.

Those aftermarket kits are NOT a good way to go. You really need to get all of the old mineral oil out & replace it with a R134A compatible ester (POE) oil that's also compatible with any residue of mineral oil.

Key is identifying the general type of compressor you have. If it's a york type compressor, (search archives for York & R134A), the conversion is a bit easier than if it's one of the cylindrical compressors, primarily because it's easy to suck the old mineral oil out of the york style compressor's crankcase w/o pulling the compressor.

If your system's been open to the air for any length of time, then the dryer must be replaced. If not, it's still a good idea as the old one's ability to absorbe moisture is significantly reduced, & the old one is going to be half-full of mineral oil that should be removed from the system.

If you don't have a good vacuum pump, set of A/C gauges, & are generally familiar with A/C service, it's best to locate a reliable A/C shop & have them do it.

 

FWIW, I no longer do conversions, R12 is easily obtained and at reasonable cost. The system functions fine if properly converted but for proffesional applications, the risks outweigh the job IMO.

Brian

 

Other considerations are 134a molecules are smaller than r12, so all o-rings in the systems must be replaced with viton. r134a is not as efficient as r12, so the system will not get as cold.
My advise is to stick with the r12.

Brian

 

R12 keeps getting cheaper and R134a keeps getting more expensive.
Over the life of your car how many times are you going to recharge it?
Now how much is it going to cost to convert it?
Is all that worth it to save maybe $300 (prob a lot less) in lifetime refrig costs so you can get a less efficient system?

 

3 Brians agree. I guess that settles it.

 

In Ca you have to jump through all kinds of hoops to buy any kind of Freon and then it comes in 30lb bottles for about $600-$750 depending on the market price.


I think it would be easier to just have someone do it for you.

 

Why change to R134a, just keep your same system and use Freeze12 - fully comaptible substitute.
www.freeze12.com

 

While I posted info about R134a conversion, staying with R12 is certainly something you should seriously consider.

R12 is hard to come by here in NE, while R134a is plentiful, cheap (so far), & doesn't require a license to purchase.

Also, the NE weather isn't quite as brutal as Tx, Fl, or even southern CA. Altho, I can't complain about how cold my car gets with R134a.

 

There seems to be a fair amount of R12 on Ebay.

Brian

 

Any alternate refrigerant has to have it's own unique fittings and then label the system with info about the product and installation person and date.

If I perform a PPI and find alternative in the system, I will suggest a complete flush and replacement of parts as needed to go back to stock, sometimes several $*,000. So it could cost you again in the long run in car value.....

Brian

 

Be careful of the R12 cans being sold on eBAY, most are 'oil charge' cans that have a large amount of oil & enough R12 to carry it into the system. They are not intended for replacing lost R12.

Also, thoroughly check out who's selling, there have been reports of R12 cylinders being refilled with propane, or a propane butane mix by fly-by-night outfits.

 

Would you expect anything less from the world's largest on-line flea market?