Rear brake adjustment/hand brake-308 GTBQV Euro | FerrariChat

Rear brake adjustment/hand brake-308 GTBQV Euro

Discussion in '308/328' started by Michael DB, Jan 17, 2025.

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  1. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
    I've read the WM and Rick Rainbolt's "How to".
    Is the need to adjust the "take up" (pad to rotor) to 0.1mm simply to ensure the handbrake works (or at least tries to!) or is it necessary for the hydraulics. In my simple world hydraulics were/are self compensating with the seals effectively pulling back the pads to just clear the rotor.

    After 6 months and about 2k miles my handbrake had become useless. The car had to return to the workshop for other work so was re-adjusted. Could I have just twiddled the turnbuckle on cable A (per RR) as opposed to resetting with the caliper adjustment? Or is that a bodge too far?
     
  2. Paul Kane

    Paul Kane Karting

    May 27, 2020
    242
    Rickmansworth UK
    Full Name:
    Paul Kane
    My F430 Spider manual hand brake has been useless since owning the car for 4 years, looking at previous owners invoices I could see that the car had problems with the hand brake from new.
    Several mechanics tried all sorts to fix it to no avail over the last 19 years (2005 model).
    I gave the car in to AV Engineering in UK who tackled the problem, after adjusting etc they said its fine and all done, I said keep trying the handbrake for the next few days and see what happens, of course it failed, lever was at full height and no brake holding.
    They found the fault in the end, it was the r/h/s rear handbrake calliper failing by losing its hold, it was replaced with a second hand working part.
    I can now do a hill start without burning out my clutch :)
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,794
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    That's a bodge that doesn't work as the mechanical throw of the mechanism in the rear brake calipers is limited -- i.e., doing that, the lever on the rear brake caliper will (eventually) just contact its mechanical stop before any pressure is applied at the pads. The cable adjustments do need to be set properly (i.e., not too many clicks at the handle to apply), but they are not the "fix".
     
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  4. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
    I suspected something like that might be the case. Thanks for the explanation.
     
  5. Portofino

    Portofino Formula Junior

    Sep 17, 2011
    846
    Yorkshire UK / Switzerland/ Antibes France
    Full Name:
    Portofino
    #5 Portofino, Jan 18, 2025
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2025
    From memory it’s the inside hex ( behind the dust cover screw ) that’s the main one , once that’s nipped up and those cables tightened like you suggest the hand brake works fine .

    Get both rear wheels off the go round to check friction as you adjust up the hex . New thick pads help .One turns CW and the other turns CCW you need to get it , know which is which to adjust up .
     
    Michael DB likes this.
  6. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
    Thanks. Now just using the search to learn how to jack up the rear....finding positions for the jack and stands!
     
  7. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
  8. Freddie328

    Freddie328 Formula Junior

    Jul 29, 2013
    389
    Herts, UK
    Full Name:
    Richard
  9. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
    #9 Michael DB, Jan 19, 2025
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2025
    Thanks Richard. It was seeing a pic of this type that made me have a second look at mine. Mine is fixed and wider but providing I can lift the frames up enough to avoid crunching the cill it looks like it should work. It’s a bit cold to play at the moment! I’ve probably been overthinking it but I’m a bit concerned about weight distribution. However my ramp is rated at 2500kg and I can tie a bit of string to the nose or put a fence post under the engine!

    In truth I’ve not needed to lift the car last year but adjusting the handbrake should be within my capabilities hence the renewed interest in the lift.
     
  10. miked

    miked Formula Junior

    Feb 7, 2001
    898
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    I have a mid-rise lift in my garage, it's actually my son's. He got it for free from his workplace when a new manager wanted it gone because it didn't operate and hadn't for years. I got it home and found that someone had just miss wired the switch when replacing it. It works great but with all of these type of lifts you need to have raised ramps along the sides to get most small cars over the lift or mount the lift below the garage floor level. My old school 1997 Dodge one ton van is the only vehicle that I own that can drive over if without hitting something. I recently made some ramps for it so he can use it in his garage, 2x4's on edge and 3/4" ply on top so the ramps are about 4-1/4" high overall, 12" wide and about 12' long. Similar to these in the photo except I made the ramp end removable so it doesn't stick out past the rear of the car when not needed.
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. Michael DB

    Michael DB Karting

    Dec 22, 2023
    231
    UK
    Full Name:
    Michael D Beswick
    Built the frame around the ramp. The car will now clear the ramp (4” high) and I can see under the car to place the rubber pads correctly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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