Rear caliper leaking, need recommendation

One of my rear brake calipers is leaking so I am going to have them rebuilt and also replace the rubber brake line hose as well. I'll be sending the calipers off to PMB Perfomance for rebuilding and replating. I have a concern with leaving the master cylinder dry of fluid for 2 weeks while the calipers are built. Strange things happen when they are left dry for that long.

For those who have done this project and have a pointer to share as to how to keep the resevoir full?

Also after searching the threads I can't seem to find a source for the rubber brake lines. Any help ??

 

You don't have to drain the brake lines and reservoir when you remove the calipers. When you remove the brake line from the caliper, raise the end up and you can cap it with a little plastic cap, like a tire valve stem cap. If you buy new brake lines, they usually come with a plastic cap to keep dust and dirt out. Just use a couple of those and they will keep the fluid from leaking out. You will lose some fluid, but not enough to matter. And just put a little plastic wrap over the ends of the new lines to keep them clean.

Besides, if it is only for a week or two, leaving the system "dry" shouldn't hurt anything. A few months, I'd worry about it, but not a week or two. But capping the line will keep fluid in there, if you are worried.

 

p.s. Remember, brake fluid eats paint. So be careful where it leaks to, and put a drip tray under the spots where it is likely to go.

 

I had my rear calipers off for a month while they were getting lost by the post office and subsequently rebuilt. I had no problems with the master cylinder or bleeding them once I reinstalled the calipers. I put small ziplock bags over the ends of the lines and then tied those on with zip ties to seal the lines from junk and air. The bags also caught any leaking fluid.

Not sure on the rubber lines, I used stainless and they were easy to find from a varietly of shops.

Don't give up til you get the parking brake to work. Now's the time to get that system working correctly.

Good luck,
Jason
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Yes I considered capping off the lines, didnt realize that they are not under pressure and thought hat fluid would just start spewing out. Probably not the case, just a slow flow just need to act quickly not to get fluid all over the place.

Regarding the brake lines I understand that SS lines will give a firmer pedal than rubber lines, does that mean that the brakes become more reactive and sensative and will grab faster??

Thanks for the replies

 

SS lines are pretty cool in that the brakes feel more serious. They don't grab faster, and the force you apply still translates via hydraulic mechanical advantage the same. It's just the elastic (stretching feel, how far the pedal moves for a given force) movement is reduced.

I use rubber caps to close off the lines while doing hydraulic service work. You can get a great assortment from Global metric 1 800 247 2722.

 

In my experience with the 308, changing to SS lines will not make a huge, dramatic difference in brake pedal feel. It does make the pedal feel a bit "firmer" than the rubber lines. But it's not like the brakes will lock up the instant you touch the pedal or make the car stop on a dime. They just eliminate a bit of the spongy feel from the brakes when you step on them. That said, they are a good upgrade.

When you get SS lines, be sure to get the ones that have the plastic coating on the outside. That keeps dirt from getting into the SS braiding, which can cause a wear problem over time.

 

Regarding a source for the SS lines are they available domestically with the correct metric fittings. I'm a bit reluctant to use adaptors, just adds additional chance for possible leakage. Some threads suggest Orme Brothers but apparently there a leakage issues with their fittings and require the use of a crush washer.

Any other source in the US? Anyone use the Girodisc brake lines that Ricambi sells??

 

I bought Goodridge brake lines off Ebay. They're the same size and have the plastic sleeve, no adaptors required.

 

Ditto that Steve.

Most of the sponginess in the pedal on a 308 comes from flex in the extra mechanical linkage between the pedal and the laterally placed MC. Most cars have it longitudinally placed, without extra linkage to bend and flex....

 

I think the rubber lines are available from Ricambi. I don't have their part no. but one of the end fittings is stamped "83.5201-0280.3" As I recall they're about $112 each. You might also try Italian Car Parts

 

I think what the OP might be hitting on is that it's quite common for the MC to start leaking right after repairing calipers. Why? Because if the pump-the-pedal approach is used the piston seals of the MC are dragged into an area of the bore at full downstroke that is likely to have some corrosion because that area is not swept by the seals in normal operation.

In other words, if you know for sure that the full length of the bore of your MC is good then no problem using the pump-the-pedal approach. But if you don't know the condition then don't be surprised if you see MC leaks afterwards.

I prefer to use both a pressure bleeder, and a vacuum bleeder, for the 308 brakes so as to not have to use the pump-the-pedal approach and risk tearing a seal.

Incidentally, the Goodridge stainless sheathed brake lines available for 308s through TireRack are excellent quality, and about $150 for all four IIRC.

 

You can clamp the rubber brake lines with Vise-Grips. It doesn't take much pressure. With care they won't damage the hoses, and you're going to replace them anyhow.
Cheers,
TomB

 

I sharpened a thin dowel in a pencil sharpener & twisted it into the end of the brake line & then duct taped the hose to the inside of the fender well. No leaking. I would have preferred to use a 000 rubber stopper or such, but couldn't find one at my local hobby shop.

 

Both great ideas, great minds think alike. Clamping the hose in order the remove the hose form the caliper hard line and following up with a rubber stopper at the longer hard line where the other end of the hose attaches. This should really minimize loss of brake fluid to only how fast one can plug the line!