Rear Screen

I heard that some rear screens broke during mounting.
Reason seems to be not flexibel enough glass, when you need to push both ends together while assembly.
But it is just something I heard, I have no real facts..
What about the other guy who wanted to reproduce rear screens, he seems to be quite experienced?

 

Got my NOS rear windscreen in today (WHEW WAS I LUCKY!!!). If any measurements are needed I can take them before I install it. Will be putting it in this Sunday.

 

Indeed, one must compress the two ends towards the middle by about 1 to 2 cm to clear the buttresses. I have done it 3 times without difficulty. Silicon on the ends of the rubber seal where they rub against the buttress while sliding the glass into position is strongly recommended by this observer. Once set into place at the pinch rail and beyond the butresses, final insertion with a pull-cord in the goove of the rubber seal is a breeze.

Jim S.

 

$1875 on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150350790722

 

the picture of rear screen offered doesn`t make any sence....
they should put the actual picture on to get get a feeling for the product
;-)

 

Aren't these the ones made by SICURVETRO, a Scandinavian country? Would these be the same sold by Dino.de?

 

I will get those measurements for you this weekend. If buying a reproduction glass the dimensions need to be very close to the original or it will never sit correctly in the car. That tip to tip measurement being the most crucial. When I took my windscreen out, I pushed the rubber lip over the metal from inside the car all the way around. Then with my helper I started pushing one end out first and the whole window came out in a hinge fashion with almost no effort or stress on the glass. I was thinking of reinstalling it the same way so as to minimize stress on the glass. Dennis McCann said that is the way he put them in. Is this the way you put your in Jim S.?

 

I took a razor blade to my seal and made a circumferential incision all the way around, thereby destroying the seal. The glass came out easily without the rubber on it. Plenty of room. Each of my installations were related to complete restorations, hence a new seal was in order.

However, when reinstalled, I placed the new rubber on the glass first, along with the pull-cord in the groove. With the rubber seal on the glass it is a tight fit past the buttresses. Slight pressure and a bit of silicone on the end points (where they rub past the butttress) and the glass found its way to the pinch rail for final insertion. It takes two (or three) people, of course. One to press gently on the outside in, while one person sits within the car and pulls the cord perpendicular to the glass. The outside pressure follows the cord and vice versa (the cord puller works with the pressure to pull where the pressure is). A plastic "tongue-depressor" or spoon helps to lift the rubber over the pinch rail.

Just go slow, work it, and don't be afraid to start over if things slip out of place. Suction cups help A GREAT DEAL. Find a pair and it will make your life a great deal easier.

Jim S.

 

Did you go straight forward with the glass square to the car with no angling of the glass.

 

It came out rather easily (with the rubber cut off and remaining on the pinch rail). Square out, but you will not have any difficulty moving it about to remove from the car. However, when installing it in the car with rubber around the glass, it will not go square in. You must put one end in first, and then gently press the other end past the buttress. The first end to enter should be pressed as deeply into the opening as possible. In fact, if you can get the seal to sit on the pinch rail of this first-end-in you will get more clearance. Then you swing the other end in. This is where the silicone past or spray will help.. It keeps the rubber from impeding the movement of the end past the buttress.

This will become evident when you do it. It really is rather easy. Just go slow.

Jim S.

 

Racerboy - just had a thought.

The reason that you must install the window with the rubber seal on the glass relates to the chrome surround. Once the window is in the car, you cannot install the surround. It must be placed in the groove of the rubber seal while the window is out of the car. Hence, insertion of the window must take place with the rubber seal and surround installed on the glass.

Jim S.

 

Possum,

I will get those measurements today. I went to the beach and totally forgot about it.

 

The overall width of the rear screen is 39" on the button. That is outside tip to outside tip. The height at the center is 8.5". If you need any other measurements please let me know.

 

That is over 1/4" wider overall or 1/8" on each end. That may work OK but it is hard to say. If they have several I would have them measure them all and get the one closest to 39". S.Gobain made thousands for the Dino and in all likelyhood they weren't all exactly the same. I would guess they would have an acceptable tolerance range.

 

I think there are some plexiglass repros, if cost is a consideration????

 

Mike who did my bodywork has a spare original one would you like me to ask if he would sell it
not sure if he uses it as a template for when he is restoring them.

Regards

Stephen

 

Hi,
As promised to many, we have finally entered production with the TEMPERED/TOUGHENED Dino 246 REAR SCREENS!!!

As many have said before, laminated ones do not work for 'obvious' reasons. Period.
(we've never done the laminated ones before, as we soon found out they would not work!)

As a sample, we are using an original glass.
It is one of four OEM-glasses we compared at Peter Julin's garage in Stockholm earlier this spring. All 4 were slightly different (by a few mm's), although they were from the same original producer. The small variations could have come from the process/the way they were done; they could have given in a little at tempering-process in the oven (after bending-oven), or they might have used several toolings/molds when making them originally with slight differences to the molds or the cure-time in/out the ovens etc...

Anyhow, we chose the one that was in between the four and also tried and measured it carefully on the 4 cars there; it was the best specimen of the 4 to use, although they all would have worked well, though;
-tempered glass bends slightly, and thus allows a small amount of play with the tolerances, which is well needed with the Dino 246 rear-glass installation; no 2 Dinos are 100% identical there... ...

Delivery-time will be in late June to early July, ex works here in Finland. Delivery by air to even furthest locations takes only a few days. By sea; i.ex. USA, about 6-8 weeks, EU about 1 week.

At the moment we are trying to find the most suitable way to distribute this one initial batch worldwide (thay are done in larger batches only, not individually!).
-The more we can pack in one crate/destination, the less the freight etc. costs per glass will be (shipping a single glass to i.ex. USA is relatively expensive).
If anyone has any good suggestions, please let me know, or give me a call here!

Pricing and terms given by private mail!

yours from finally sunny Finland,

Antti Wihanto
Wihanto Trading / parabrezza SICURVETRO
Allinkatu 13
20100 Turku
Finland
ph. +358-40-551 9841 (+2 hrs to GMT, +10 to PST), 7 days ok to call!
('70 246 GT)

www.sicurvetro.com
www.concours.fi

 

Possum - and anybody else interested in rear screens or other specialty glass from Sicurvetro:

I have been in contact with Antti about acting as a distributor for their products. I am willing to order a crate with screens and import them to my office in Chicago. From there, they can be shipped out at a reasonable cost. Once the first batch is delivered, I will keep some some pieces in stock for immediate delivery.

Please email or PM me with your interest. I have to order a substantial minimum quantity from Sicurvetro to get this started, so it is important to know how many of you are interested.

Lars