This is all parts I use for the "injector service" for my Euro 328, not sure that the injector for US are the same. Also I add bushing from Ferrari 400 parts. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 3083065
@jhh925 to my best knowledge your car might be the 40th or so US GTB built. Can you please check if you find any number stamped on the boby near the oil cooler ? This number could be find on the front and rear hoods and on some sticker in the car. See below picture to help locate them. Thanks in advance Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 1154497
Image Unavailable, Please Login Do you have a part number or a good source for the parts circled in yellow? I think my injector carriers are in pretty good shape, and I'm replacing all eight injectors and all the rubber O-rings that go on the injectors and the carriers, but I wouldn't mind replacing the carriers as well if there's a good source. For the 400i and my 328, the PN I have is 113309, and that carrier is available in multiple places for about 66 BPS (about $84), and at that price, I'll probably stick with what I have. And based on that picture, the only difference between my carriers and yours is the color (mine are black).
There's a "6" or a "9" (depending on which way you look at them) stamped into the engine cover and the front hood in the places you've indicated. I don't see anything stamped in the body work near the oil cooler mounts. What's the significance of those numbers?
The interior trim panels might have the number hand written on the panel itself or on a piece of tape stuck to the panel. Also the headlight buckets might have the same number stamped on them.
You will find some answer on thread below https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/328-injector-bushes.327254/ Some think this is not necessary but these bush are better quality than OEM and I want as well put everything new, so....
This number is the body number of your cars. Body was produced by Scaglietti ( not in Maranello factory ) and of course each one have his number from the first made to the last. So to my best knowledge 135 US 328GTB ever produced. If all those number are same on yours, then you have a matching number car with all original parts. May have you any pictures ?
Yes you could find this body number on several place and this could be very difficult de read on many car. they are also often hidden by a tape you have to remove I found in my car a sticker behind the fuse box with body number of mine ( 76 ) for example Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That link seems to be broken, and the address "www.ferrari400parts.com" isn't accessible anymore. Has the business maybe moved to a new website?
Gotcha. I'll look more carefully, but I'm finding the number "9" in a bunch of places. I'll post pics in the next few days,.
First, a question, then a quick status update. Question: I've removed and disassembled the brake calipers. Along with a couple boxes of other bits & parts, these will get replaced. Should I get my calipers replaced in clear (white) zinc? Or yellow zinc? I've tried to go through the pics of a bunch of 328 BAT auctions, but I'm not seeing any pics of the brake calipers that show this clearly. And the parts that came off my car almost look to be a mix of white & yellow Image Unavailable, Please Login Got the A-arms all disassembled and I've removed the old bushings. What a pain in the Enzo. Image Unavailable, Please Login Packing parts up to take to the powder coater and the electro plating place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Made a dolly to roll the chassis around on and to raise the car up a bit so it's easier to get at stuff underneath. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login It's proving to be a slow start to the body-work stage (too many other things keep distracting me), but I did manage to get all the bondo out of the bodywork at the left rear quarter. This ought to be interesting. Image Unavailable, Please Login And, in response to the questions earlier, it looks like the consistent production number I'm seeing is "9." Here are two tags I found on the parcel shelf (first pic) and the rear passenger bulkhead (second pic). And as noted earlier, "9" is stamped on the hood and engine cover as well. I didn't find any stickers under the dash or fuse panel or similar areas. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yellow zinc on the callipers and brackets. The newer the cars, the more yellow zinc they had. By 1984 there was hardly any clear zinc used.
@jhh925 what a job ! Congrats Number 9 make sense. To my best knowledge your 328 is 9th US GTB 1987 model, I mean the 9th 328 with VIN number ZFFXA19AxHxxxxxxx. and that's matches with the body. Thank you for sharing. Just have to look at the gearbox number
Yellow zinc is a 2 stage process with the yellow color coming last. Different suppliers had different intensities of yellow. The calipers were usually very pale shade. Scaglietti body factory in Modena has been owned and operated by Ferrari for a very long time. Saying the body was built by Scaglietti is no different than saying it was built by Ferrari. No bodies are built in Maranello.
A busy summer travel schedule is now done, and I think I'm now able to turn back to this project closer to full time. And I'm WAY overdue - embarrassingly overdue - for posting an update. I think I've started this post four times and I keep getting distracted. All the relevant parts are back from powder coating & plating. The air filter box in particular turned out really well I think. Also, per Rifledriver's advice, I had the calipers replaced in yellow zinc, though they're not pictured here. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login On the body, all the metal work is done (or nearly) ... various dings removed, rockers straightened, and that cancerous prior work at the left rear quarter is now mostly straightened out. I'm still tinkering with it, but so far I think it's turned out really well! Before: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login After: Image Unavailable, Please Login I've spent probably about a month cleaning up underneath, including cleaning off all the accumulated dirt, oil, grease, brake fluid, etc., and also removing all the old Dinitrol (or "ear wax," as I've affectionately come to think of it - yuck). All the cleaning underneath has been in preparation for re-spraying new black textured coating where needed. Here's a 'before' sample from the front right quarter: Image Unavailable, Please Login I've also cleaned up the underside of the entire frame. For whatever reason, Ferrari seems to have sprayed the black textured coating on most of the frame and underbody, but NOT the very bottom of the frame. That seems odd to me, but whatever. I've also removed the large aluminum cover plate from the center section. The result is that pretty much all of the very bottom-facing portions of my frame are basically just gray paint with some-overspray from the black textured coating. The portion of the frame that was hidden beneath the aluminum cover also had a fair amount of surface rust, all of which got brushed/sanded off. Then, all those bottom-facing frame sections got re-primered in gray epoxy, then coated with a 2K satin gray top-coat. Here's the front section and the mid section. I still have to do the frame members in the engine & exhaust area. Front (after): Image Unavailable, Please Login Center section (before, terrible pic, sorry, I could have sworn I'd gotten a clearer pic of all this): Image Unavailable, Please Login Center section (after): Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm not there yet, but when I re-spray the textured coating in the needed areas in the wheel wells & engine compartment, I'll be strategically doing the "overspray" so that there will be droplets of texture coating on the bottom of the frame where it's now clean respray. And speaking of the black textured coating, I'm been having a tough time with that so far. And to be clear, I'm NOT talking about the wax Dinitrol layer; I'm talking about the hard black textured coating that's under the Dinitrol. I tested a few products, and thought I'd found that the Würth Stone Guard Black (8890971) was a near perfect match. But on my first attempts to apply it, the texture ended up being too rough - almost sandy, even when adjusting the spray distance. Here's an example in the left-front wheel well: Image Unavailable, Please Login However, after a bit more playing around, what I've found is that if I spray just a very short pulse at a time, let it dry for a couple of days, then smooth it down it bit with a scotch-bite pad, then the texture is damn near spot on. I'm also planning on spraying these areas with a 2K flat black paint (mixed to match the current material), so that the color & "sheen" will get a bit more smoothed out. I'l also note that in some areas I've used SEM Texture Coating (39853) which seems also to provide a really close facsimile to the original texture in the frunk area (for instance). (That SEM product is apparently designed to give different results based on how far away you hold the can, etc. It can also be sanded to adjust the texture.) That coating unfortunately requires a top paint coat. Here's the current status ... Inside is cleaned up. I am hoping to touch up the red paint on the inside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Engine compartment is almost ready for re-finishing: Image Unavailable, Please Login Front hood area is nearly ready for re-coating as well (see below); that 1.5 inch hole sort at the rear center has been patched/filled with fiberglass using a chopped strand sheet. I'm pretty sure that hole is from a prior stereo install. Frunk before: Image Unavailable, Please Login Frunk after fiberglass repair and texture coating (still needs paint): Image Unavailable, Please Login So, as of this writing, total hours into the project: 445 hours
I’d say you’ve made great progress in those 445 hours. Great work on that quarter panel. It just pains me to see the less than par work that was previously performed, especially after seeing the result of someone that took the time and worked with it to get it to look that good. Very impressive. Keep the updates coming!
Finally hitting some important milestones; bodywork is done and paint has started. First coat of epoxy: Image Unavailable, Please Login Polyester high-build primer on the visible surfaces (this will get blocked down, any flaws fixed, then it will get primed/sealed with another coat of epoxy): Image Unavailable, Please Login Paint match on the Ferrari 300/06 (lighting is not ideal, and I didn't have a great 'spray card,' but in person the match looked very good to me): Image Unavailable, Please Login 616 hours so far.
"Hey, is that guy still working on his 328 project? Whatever happened with him?" Yeah, I'm not great with the updates, though I also think that updates on all the paint work wouldn't be all that interesting. Anyhow, we're getting there slowly. I'd originally set myself the goal of having the body painted before the cold weather set in here in Reno, but we've already had our first snowfall and I still have a ways to go. As it turns out, I set up two small electric space heaters in the plastic paint tent and that keeps the whole setup at a very steady 70 degrees. The tent seems to hold the heat in really well because the heaters aren't running anywhere near full-blast. Here's the body after the full spray-out: Image Unavailable, Please Login My plan was (and remains) to do two full coats, with this spray-out being the first of the two coats. That said, I experimented a bit with doing some sanding and polishing on this coat to see how it would look. The reflection of the ceiling lights through the plastic sheeting here is a bit misleading. It makes the paint surface look textured, but this is actually a very accurate reflection. Image Unavailable, Please Login And here's another attempt where I was experimenting on the A-pillar Image Unavailable, Please Login After some initial sanding: Image Unavailable, Please Login And earlier today after getting the entire coat to 1000 grit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm hoping to get the second coat on before Thanksgiving, but just saying that out load is probably jinxing it. Total hours so far: 752
I don't think I am good enough to do a paint job with a home paint booth in my garage, assuming the city would allow me to do that. I admire the effort, wow.
It's a PIA. Not sure I would do it again, though I'm sure I'll feel very differently after it's all done.
Big progress. Red paint is done on chassis. All sanding & polishing is done except for a final very light-cut polish to finish things up. Black paint highlights are done in the door jambs & frames, rockers, and the waist line "gutters." Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm also very happy with how the luggage area came out on the inside where the left rear corner had gotten munched. I realize I'm being a bit irrational given that this will all get covered over, but I enjoy getting these hidden details correct. I got the "drippy" black spray using Würth SKS Stoneguard Black sprayed through the Würth gun, but at about 10psi (vs the 50-70psi specified in the instructions) and with the spray nozzle turned all the way out Before (when I was deepest into this part of the repair): Image Unavailable, Please Login After: Image Unavailable, Please Login Over the last few weeks, I'd also come to the conclusion that the SEM Texture Coating that I'd used in the frunk was just wrong. The color seemed right, but clearly this material isn't meant to be left un-painted: It's a rough, grainy surface texture that seems to attract & hold dirt and debris. And that rough surface makes it impossible to clean. At the same time, I was VERY happy with the results I got from spraying Würth SKS Stoneguard Black through their matching spray gun. The texture and surface are very close to what was on the car to begin with, and it came out even better after painting with the same black highlight paint I used elsewhere. Here's before (with the SEM texture coating): Image Unavailable, Please Login Here's afterwards with the Würth: Image Unavailable, Please Login The paint I used for the black highlights was Satin Black from PPG Defleet Essentials. I think the satin and the color were just right for the door jambs and rockers. Next up: - Texture coating touch-ups in the engine compartment, especially on the inside of the rear quarters by the gas tanks - Satin silver paint on the engine compartment bulkhead and in the areas behind the rear bumper covers - Paint the black textured areas along the right and left sides of the engine compartment, including the engine cover hinge arms and those "trays" on the right & left. On that last point (painting the right & left sides of the engine compartment), I'm suffering from s bit of analysis paralysis. The satin black Essentials I have seems to be a bit too black (like a very deep, dark black) as compared to what's there now. I realize that the original coatings have faded over time from all the engine heat, fluids, ,dirt, etc., but the satin black I have still seems like it's not quite right. Here's a sample spray card (the card isn't ideal since the cardboard is a bit textured already), but I feel like I might want to go with a full matte paint, or even a mix that is slightly more gray than the deep black I already have. IN this pic, the lighter matte black on the left is Würth Satin Trim Black, and the right is Essentials Satin Black. The Würth is a bit too light (and I don't want to use a rattle can paint here anyhow), but the Essentials still seems a bit too black. Thoughts?? Am I over-thinking this? Image Unavailable, Please Login Total time through today: 865 hours
Recently, this project has felt a lot like "three steps forward, three steps back." Here's the current status: I got the HVAC flex ducts nearly completely replaced with new Webasto/Eberspacher flex ducting. It's been a bit challenging only because of the cost (ouch!) and the fact that they've sent me the wrong duct least once - someone at Butler Technik grabbed the wrong stuff off the shelf. We'll get there. Old: Image Unavailable, Please Login New: Image Unavailable, Please Login And installed: Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm still waiting on a long piece of the 80mm ducting to make the long connection from one of the blower fans under the left fender all the way across to the heater core on the right. I got the engine compartment painted. The pictures are just a bit better than what I'm seeing in real life ... I'd like it to be just a bit more matte. I have an additional pint of matte black Essentials that I may play with. Or I may just leave this. We'll see. Image Unavailable, Please Login Progress on interior. The fuse & relay panel is out for refurbishment. I refurbished the AC evaporator box and re-sealed where the top duct goes up through the fiberglass "firewall." The passenger foot rest has been powder coated. The HVAC vents that blow up through the dash have been sealed & riveted back in. Steering column & steering rack are back in and (hopefully!) centered correctly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login As an aside, all the interior parts (dash, radio pod, center console, door cards, etc.) are back from the upholstery shop. I'll post more pics when I get closer to reinstalling the interior, but I've now at least installed the parking brake handle and I'm really happy with the workmanship. This shop has the correct machine to do a double top stitch with a twin-needle, and they also have a skiving machine so the seams are coming out flat with aligned stitches. Happy, happy! Image Unavailable, Please Login Some progress underneath. Brake lines, rear exhaust hangars, parking brake line, clutch cable, throttle cable are all back in. Image Unavailable, Please Login My current struggle is with the insulation materials around the luggage compartment. Specifically, I need to replace the heat resistant woven blanket material that was directly behind the aluminum heat shields. (The gray rubber inserts are basically fine.) In total, there are three aluminum shields: One that is in the engine compartment sitting vertically against the rear bulkhead, one sitting horizontally right above the muffler & cat, and one that sort of wraps around one of the frame members and "joins" the other two shields. In my car, the blankets that sit immediately behind those aluminum shields were either torn, degraded or missing, so I had to figure out a replacement solution. To begin, I cleaned the foam inserts and added a thin layer of adhesive-backed foil insulation: Image Unavailable, Please Login Then I cleaned & straightened the aluminum heat shields. My plan then was to put in a layer of ceramic wool and towards that end I'd bought a roll that was 1/2 inch thick. And using a heat gun blowing at 450°F, I tested (i) some of the original Ferrari insulating blanket; (ii) a layer of some foil adhesive reflective heat shield, and (ii) a section of the 1/2 inch ceramic wool. Not very scientific, but I then held my cheek against the material (while wearing a respirator of course!) as the heat gun was running against the other side, and compared how warm my cheek got over a short period of time. The original blanket was worst and the adhesive foil was only slightly better. The ceramic wool kicked ass - in the time I tested, I couldn't feel any increase in temp at my cheek at all. So - full speed ahead with the ceramic wool! Which is when the problems started. First, I knew this stuff would be tough to work with. I knew to wear plenty of PPE, but even then there was lots of fiber splinters floating around, and the more I handled it, the worse it got. Anticipating this, I had bought a "rigidizer" spray to try to contain the wool fibers, and tho that helped, it wasn't really enough. The second (and bigger) issue was that the 1/2 inch thick blanket was too thick to use against the rear bulkhead and down around the frame member. With the ceramic wool in place, I couldn't get the aluminum sheets back in against the frame where they get riveted. It might have worked with 1/4 inch thick blanket, but the 1/2 inch wool didn't really compress like I was hoping. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login So, back to the drawing board. McMAster-Carr has 1/4 inch ceramic wool blanket, but before bleeding more $$$ I thought I'd try a bit more research. A brain-storming session with another Ferrari owner who happens also to have a PhD in mechanical engineer led me to try a different approach. I've now ordered a sheet of aramid-fiberglass blend fabric from MC. Here is the spec sheet: Image Unavailable, Please Login This should provide a good heat barrier with the right color, look and thickness of the original, and the aramid component should lower the thermal conductivity. I am likely to keep the ceramic wool fiber layer in the area above the muffler & cat, but if the aramid-fiberglass fabric works, that means I can get rid of most of the hassle from the ceramic wool fiber. Fingers crossed. Total hours to date: 1025
