Refinishing 360 interior aluminum parts?

Rattle can aluminum paint is a perfect match and ridiculously easy to apply if you know how to work a spray can. I didn’t spray my parts but was doing another project and checked it against my interior and was surprised.




Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat

 

I just did this on my 360. My tunnel and door cards are gloss black so ymmv on my advice but here goes. I got a orbit polisher and an orange correcting pad and cream (all griots brand), some sanding blocks, and matching paint and went over it a bunch of times with the correcting pad until I was satisfied. My basic steps were: 1) hit each piece with correcting pads and cream to see what scratches were on the topcoat and would come off 2) sand down around any deep dings/scratches and then paint with a very small brush 3) re-do the correcting pad to even out the touch-up. I repeated this a bunch of times to get it how I wanted it. My parts aren't perfect, but if you go slowly and are careful you can make them look way better (picture attached). I ended the process with ceramic coating them with a single coat. The car sparkles now.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

We can match the silver on those parts

 

If you aren’t up to doing it yourself, a decent body shop should be able to handle it with ease, and the parts should look as new.

Tip: Take all of the parts out, take them to a few body shops, and DO NOT tell them that the parts belong in a Ferrari.

 

Enamel spray paint is too soft and will just flake off and look bad sooner rather than later.

Went to a body shop to have mine painted.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The body shop can match that perfectly in about 5 minutes.

As a side note, if you look closely at the interior of your car, you’ll be shocked as to how mismatched the various pieces, panels, and upholstery are, straight from the factory. And that’s not just with Ferraris.

 

Has anyone ever tried powder coating?

 

Another possibility is to simply sandblast the paint off and clearcoat the pieces. I did that with my air boxes (Spider) and they came out exceptionally well. The color and texture is very uniform and it can't be chipped.

 

I remember seeing another thread on this subject.

In it there was a discussion that early cars used a different silver that had a "rougher" texture than later cars. At a FCA meet a few weeks ago, I was comparing the subtle differences between a '99 and my '03 and the interior silver paints were different along with some emissions equipment being on different sides, etc.

 

I’ll take a more cynical view and say that if Luigi was on shift that day, he mixed the paint different than Gino mixed it the day before. Two different colors and no one is the worst.

 

Hard part is finding that exact match color. We have it here ready to spray

 

Relaunching this discussion as looks like nobody has found the exact colour match. A youtube video from ferrarifxs () used "dupli color BTY1617 classic silver mica" which is a match for Totoya Colour code 1F7.

By comparing the pictures Before/After (below) it seems the colour he is using is a bit darker than the original, and glossier (a point that he points out in the voice-over):

Also, he does not say if he used a clear-coat, which I think makes a big difference, and feel that a satin but on the mattest side, should be used.

If anyone had recommendation for a colour code and, probably more importantly, a brand / scpefic product that matches perfectly, I am interested in hearing.

Before (old OEM paint with scratched):
Image Unavailable, Please Login

After repating:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes, I had all of my interior parts powdercoated, including having the gauge cluster done 2 tone. I think they used "Porsche silver". Is the color a 10000% match? No, but it's close enough and looks 100% better than the worn parts and way better than the rattle can job I did previously. Even though it was clear coated with all high temp stuff, it still just didn't look great after a couple years of wear. Had several engine parts done also.

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PMS-0439/porsche-silver?srsltid=AfmBOorfgyrFn_BNOCkja2RR3cyV2BqXNUmxRcm_zFgp4ZvQLQ3rMIyN

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I admit, @RedNeck , that yours is probably the nicest match to what I imagine it to be as straight out from factory.

I ended up buying a Dupli-color spray can, colour 10-0128, meant to match the Toyota 1F7 that I read was a very close match.
Sprayed c. 4 thin layers on an aluminium plate and below are the results.

Caveats:
- my car is not mega clean
- Pictures taken inside
- no satin lacker on top of Dupli-Color paint
- Colour possibly slightly modified based on camera and your screen

But my conclusions are that:
- 10-0128 definitely not a very close match
- 10-0128 much more silver vs the OEM has a tiny taint of yellow/bronze in it
- Seems closer to the passenger foot rest colour, just a bit darker than the footrest
- Still a nice colour but would need to repaint the 5 elements

May try to remove the central element and go to the shop to try and find a closer match ;o)


Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I removed the central console and went with it to the shop to try and find a more matching colour.
Turns out, the hidden part (which one would argue should be very close to the original colour) was actually much grayer than the parts exposed to sun and dirt. So to avoid having the dirty part mix visually on the pictures below, I taped it to only reveal the clean/protected part of the element.

I went for Dupli-Colour 10-0120 that time, and painted the same panel as yesterday with that paint, next to the 10-0128 I had tried yesterday.

I applied 3 thin layers, but haven't applied a satin clear-coat yet (they only had shiny clear coat at the shop), so the colour may change once the clear coat is applied (and should be applied).

I let you make up your own opinion, but to me the 10-0120 is much closer to the OEM colour than the 10-0128. Still, one would need to repaint the 5 elements since the match is probably 96-97% but not 100%. On the other hand, that lets you decide if you want a different tone. But personally I think I will go for 10-0120.

Material use: Nikon D500 so the colour should be pretty much reflective on a quality screen of what the actual colour is.

Hope that helps

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login


Also tried to take with "dirty" central console, and 10-0120 has a bit yellowish grain to it that better matches the original colour.
Image Unavailable, Please Login