Refitting header/coolant tank

Discussion in '308/328' started by Ray F, Feb 24, 2021.

  1. Ray F

    Ray F Karting

    Jul 17, 2005
    Somerset, England
    Full Name:
    Ray Forster
    Hi all. I'm about to refit the header/coolant tank which I've just refurbished. Is there a recommended procedure to follow for refilling and running in after it's back in? Don't want to end up with any air locks.

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  3. SJP 5

    SJP 5 Karting

    Jun 7, 2015
    I replaced my header tank with an aluminium one a few years ago and only had to bleed the system as normal, just need patience for all the air to be removed.
    Just go for a quick drive after initial bleeding and bleed again and you should be all right.
  4. Portofino

    Portofino Karting

    Sep 17, 2011
    Yorkshire UK / Switzerland/ Cote d Azur
    Full Name:
    I fitted a new super performance alloy Matt black tank ( OEM rusted ) and just topped up and bled.Went for a few drives and when up to temp parked on a hill front up ( take a choc to choc a wheel ) and opened the rad air screw .Took a few days and a few runs , but nothing special really .
  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ

    Nov 29, 2001
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Buy ($100US), borrow, or steal an Airlift (tm) device. You are done in 10 minutes with no parking-up-the-hill antics.
    lm2504me likes this.
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  7. kcabpilot

    kcabpilot Formula 3

    Apr 17, 2014
    California SF area
    Full Name:
    Not sure where the "park on a hill" myth started but on level ground the header tank is higher than any other point in the system so with cap off you open the radiator bleed screw and all the air comes out. That's pretty much it. There is another bleed screw on the thermostat housing that you can open when you initially fill but after that it's not necessary to mess with it since the main bleed line runs from the top of the coolant crossover to the tank.
    Brian Harper likes this.

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