Relay overheating 308GT4 | FerrariChat

Relay overheating 308GT4

Discussion in '308/328' started by jeanlucco, Apr 10, 2009.

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  1. jeanlucco

    jeanlucco Rookie

    Sep 22, 2006
    24
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Jean-Luc
    Today I discover by coincidence that my relays are burning hot once I put the ligths on. From cold to more or less impossible to touch it (assume 60 degrees Celcius) it takes approx. 3 to 5 minutes. We are in Denmark and by law you need to drive with the ligths on. I installed the Birdman magic fuse box two years ago and so far everything looks good on the fuses. Did somebody get an idea from where the problem can come. Thanks in advance for feedback. Regards/Ciao Jean-Luc
     
  2. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

    Jan 3, 2004
    4,629
    Full Name:
    Dave Helms
    Clean/replace all of the male/female plug contacts in the circuit from the back of the bulb to the relay panel. High resistance at each of the numerous plugs in the circuit will require the relay to pass more current and get hot.

    Once they get very hot, the contact points in the relay itself will also show high resistance across them and requires replacement. Male contacts at the plugs are easily cleaned, female requires replacement as there is no way to properly clean and re-tension those.

    Set out your wiring diagram on the table, identify every connector in the circuit and address them all. The end result is no better than the weakest connection.
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,826
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #3 Steve Magnusson, Apr 10, 2009
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2009
    Another thing to check is what wattage headlight bulbs have been installed -- higher power bulbs (e.g., 80W or 100W vs the stock 55W) will greatly increase the heating because the heat generated at a bad connection, or the relay contact points, increases by the ^2 of the current (i.e., an 80W bulb more than doubles the heating, and a 100W bulb more than triples the the heating).

    Also, this type of problem has a sort of positive feedback characteristic -- i.e., you have a bad connection (with a little resistance), so it runs hotter, which causes the parts to oxidize more and/or lose their "springiness" (loosening the connection), which raise the resistance a little more, which makes it run even hotter, etc.. In addition to making sure that the connections meant for assembly/disassembly at the relay are in good condition as Dave suggested, you might also consider soldering the female metal terminals in the relay socket that connect to the 30 and 87 terminals on the relay to their respective wires so they are not relying on just the mechanical swaging for a good (low resistance) connection to their corresponding wire (i.e., this supposedly "permanent" connection may have been damaged).
     
  4. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    The only heat coming from a relay is generated in it's coil and that's no more than 2 watts causing the relay to be warm but not hot.

    Those above have referred to contact resistance heat, coming from either contacts the relay plugs into, or relay contacts.

    Were I you, I'd remove the plastic relay cover and findout which. Two relays are in charge of bucket lift motors only and other gets main headlight current.

    Another test would be to unplug one headlight and see if the heat subsides. In which case you may be using a relay with insufficient current carrying capacity. Remember, these relays come in two flavors...30 amp and 40 amp. Not mentioning cheaper substandard Chinese who knows what.
     
  5. jeanlucco

    jeanlucco Rookie

    Sep 22, 2006
    24
    Denmark
    Full Name:
    Jean-Luc
    Thanks everybody, I will go step by step and keep you posted. It will keep me busy for few hours :)
    Happy Easter. Jean-Luc
     

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