Removing Air Pump on carbed 308

When I got my '78 GTS, the air pump and belt had been removed from the car. Basically, they just left the valves, pipes, etc. sitting there. The problem with doing that is that the system may or may not be open, effectively causing a leak in the exhaust. Also, it may be affecting the vacuum to the carbs, as the system interconnect.

Get the Spare Parts Catalogue for the 308 GTB/GTS, U.S. Version 1978, and look at Table 9. You can remove virtually everything shown there, except the air pump pulley (leave that in place to protect the seal). Remove the pump, remove the check valves, remove the control canister, remove all the vacuum line tied into the system, remove the air injection rails that go into the block just above the exhaust manifold. There are several threads on here about removing the air injectors and plugging up the holes, including where to get the proper plugs (you need the proper plugs to be sure you don't end up with a whistling sound from the exhaust, they have a little extension that plugs up the hole into the exhaust port chamber between the valve and the header. Some people say that they have done that job with the engine in. I did it with the engine out, and it was not a big deal. I can't imagine doing the front bank with the AC pump in the way, even removing the right side gas tank as some say they have done.

Also, while you are at it, remove the test pipes from the exhaust manifolds. You don't need them. Remove them and either have them welded up or if you are able to unscrew them (I was not), plug with a proper bolt.

Here are a couple of pictures of the old air injection rails from my car and the injectors with the exhaust header off. Often, the injectors inside the block are corroded and can't be removed without taking off the header to get to them. I was lucky and was able to get them all out. I've also included a picture of Table 9 FYI. Look for the threads on the air injector plugs and you'll find information on removal as well.

Hope that helps,
Steve
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Nice write up Steve.

Question on the pump. When you say don't remove the "air pump pulley" but say remove the "pump" what do you mean??

You DO remove the air pump don't you? Sorry for the duh question.

Chris

 

Chris, the pulley on the camshaft is what Steve is referring to. you can leave it in place or remove it, it's a PITA to remove though. it sits on the cam with a broached key and you'll need a ringnut tool.

 

Merely removing the air pump belt, while leaving the injection nozzles in the exhaust ports, is a sure recipe to distort the nozzles.

Once they are in this condition, removing them becomes a major job.

Hard to say for how long the previous owner of my car ran the car with the belt off, but here's that I found:
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Scott is exactly right. I was saying to leave the pulley on the end of the camshaft. When you remove the pump, the pump pulley goes with it.

And I agree that you should not just disconnect the pump. Remove all the related stuff, and especially the air injectors from the block.

 

Dave,

I was very lucky. All eight of mine came out easily. As you can see from the picture I posted, the injectors were in good condition and not distorted like yours were.

Steve

 

I know it is an emissions thing but what exactly does that thing do?

 

adds air into the exhaust stream to compensate for when the fuel mixture is intentionally rich (warm up, WOT).

that helps to burn off the excess hydrocarbons and CO (yeah, in the exhaust), and also helps the cat do it's thing.

 

I have a whistle that comes between 4000-6000 rpm at full throttle.. but mine is a single exhaust 1980 euro carb car. would it also have these air injection tubes?