Removing Boxer headers........ins and outs!

While reading other threads, regarding pulling the Boxer engine out, I couldn't help notice how many people are having problems with the removal of the exhaust headers. With the proper tools I found this to be rather easy.

Nomenclature: The nuts that hold the headers are 8mm in size.......not the 13mm that many refer to. It is true that they require a 13mm socket to get them off, but they are threaded onto an 8mm stud; hence, 8mm nut.

Material: The nut appears to be of a bronze origin, due to its copper color appearance. I ground down some of a nut, and saw plain steel and it was strongly attracted to a magnet. This suggests it is only bronze coated for corrosion protection. Does anyone know where I can get these nuts?

Preparation: I first removed the cross-member frame brace.....4 nuts and bolts. I then sprayed PB Blaster on all of the exhaust nuts. This is best done with the car on a hoist. Someone suggested removing the engine with the headers attached. It is better to remove the nuts while the engine is at a 6 foot level, and not when it is on the ground, or only two feet above......how would one get at the nuts? I feel it is best to leave the engine secured to the frame of the car. Some of these nuts are rather tight.

Removal: I let the PB Blaster sit for several hours, then sprayed the nuts again, and waited a few more hours. I removed the front sets of headers first: #s 1-3 and 9-12. By reading the posts and thinking that this was not an easy project, the next thing I did was call my Matco Tool rep. He came by and had a very nice product.......1/4inch extensions. While first trying to remove the nuts I felt that a 3/8 wrench, extension, and U-joint would be enough. What I found was that the U-joint was too wide, and was jamming against the header tube. This was also true with the 1/4inch set. Matco had a set of 1/4inch extensions which allow about a 15 degree movement of the socket, with no u-joint. This was perfect. It allowed me to get at the nuts, with a 13mm socket and angle the ratchet wrench slightly, to avoid the header tubes; just enough to get the nut off. Some of the nuts came off with the stud still attached........no big deal.

I hope this helps!

 

You are right. I believe that that is what the Matco guy called them.

The problem was that the u-joint/socket combination was still too long, and it was hitting the header tubes. The wobblers eliminated that extra lenght.....thus making it easier.