Removing front belt cover

Is the cover hitting the tank or is it the compressor mount?

 

Hard to imagine. Of the hundreds I have removed I have never needed to remove any but the A/C mounting studs.

 

I had to remove the A/C studs on my 308.

 

You have to remove the lower A/C bracket mounting studs from the block on 3x8s.

 

I do that to get the compressor out. Not to do it just makes it a fight.

 

So, is the Snapon stud remover tool still the hot ticket??

What size is it.

While i am emptying my wallet in the Snapon truck, is there any other special tool that would be usefull, doing the belts and bearings, (besides a brain)?

chris

 

Double nutting is cheaper by far, and you already have everything you need.

 

Double nutting does work, Used it for many years, but the stid threads take a beating, & the nuts shouldnt be reused afterwards. Also, really stubborn stud can be problematic.

I've been using one similar to these (see pic) chinese ones. The nice thing about them is that they don't tear up the threads. They have 3 hard rollers inside that are pressed against the threads. They put small dimples on the threads when the stud is stuck, but it chases right up when a nut is installed.

However, the chinese ones seemed to degrade with heavy use. (What did I expect for $18 from JC Whitney anyway).

I've replaced that set with the similar MAC TOOLS SR4M (see pic) is a better made one. One nice thing about the MAC set and some of the better chinese sets is that the smaller (6mm & 8mm) pair of the MAC sockets are shorter & 3/8" drive, while the larger pair are 1/2" drive.

The short sockets make getting into tight spaces a lot easier.
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Dave,

For sure double nutting is cheaper. I always try this first, but i have run into a couple of cam bearing mount studs and quite a few others that took several tries and almost rounded off the nuts, and mine too when the wrenches sliped off.

Knuckle skinn will grow back - but a truely buggered stud, much less a stud SNAPED off below the surface, is to be avoided.

The almost next to last worst case is where you snap it off and can't even get a drill on it to try an easy out and you have to disassemble the car to get the whole g.d. engine out.

But i digress, So, Verell, for the $, you like the chineese ones???

Late at night, in the cold, frustrated with broken or stuck studs, suffering from insufficient skills, ignorance, marginal tools, low blood alcohol, and worst of all, Fearing that Enzo may have forsaken me, I seek - better tools.

Rifledriver - what do you use when the going gets tough??

ALWAYS looking for a better way,
chris

 

I just did a 328 belt service and ended up taking out the gas tank, added maybe another 40mins to the job but gave me TONS of room to work in. just a thought.

 

I have a Hazet (maybe Stahlwille, I can’t remember) set similar to the Mac set pictured. I have found they bugger the threads more often than double nutting. I rarely use them anymore.

I have found it’s always advisable to use a box wrench on both nuts, or at least the load bearing nut. Kind of a pain to do without a ratcheting box wrench, but it saves rounding the nut, and always put the remover /double nut, whatever as far down the stud as possible. The longer the nut the better, I keep several long nuts in NF and UNC, but I don’t have any metric ones.

As in almost any steel/aluminum interface heat is your friend.

 

If you're just going to use them a few times, the chinese 1s were OK. I bought the MAC tools after my chinese set started causing problems due to wear. When I bought the chinese set 5 years ago, they were the only ones on the market. Today, with as much F* work as I do, I'd go for the MAC set.

Actually, I have BOTH the set of MAC tools, and the truly nice Snap-On threaded collet type stud pullers. I was using eBAY auction software & forgot to set it up so that if I won, the other bid would be canceled. Instead I won both auctions(DUH).

Only problem with the Snap-On threaded collets is that they're pretty large (about 1-1/2" OD) for the collet holder, and long (~3"), so it won't go into some tight spaces.

As for the roller type buggering up threads, the trick is to twist them around on the threads by hand until you feel the socket grab firmly, then put pressure on the ratchet handle. If you try to use a ratchet handle to get the socket to grab, you can damage the threads unles you've developed a 'feel' for the tool.

Actually, on the 3x8, the studs usually are very cooperative, the only exception I've ever run into were those in JWise's car. NONE of them wanted to break loose...

 

I pulled the tank. It makes the front belt easier than the back one. I am replacing all of the hoses anyway. I am also not in a hurry. This car is not getting past the snow drifts in my back driveway anytime soon.

 

In my 308 Qv 83, to have enough room I loosed the metalic tape that keeps the fuel tank fixed to the body of the car. This allowed me to move the fuel tank a little out of the belt cover to be removed.

 

Of course after the work is done, you need to check for possible fuel leaks in the hoses that connect both tanks, because of the movement.

 

It looks like at some point in time your water pipe was not kept in it's normal position (too short of a hose pulling it up?) and now you have a nice groove worn into the pipe.

 

Wow, not sure how you pulled that off (no pun intended). For me, getting that pipe out of the way made a world of difference. Plus, the hoses needed to be replaced anyways.

 

I replaced all of my studs with bolts. Much easier to work with.