Removing Intake Manifold

Recently had an error P0116 which is an engine coolant sensor. Of course, this puppy is UNDER the intake manifold, and that beast has to come out. It's not the first time I have had to raise this lovely piece, so I thought I would capture notes for myself for both future use as well as to help with reassembly (makes it easier to remember all the things I took off).

Attached is the PDF of these notes, sharing for feedback and for other's use. If anyone has better approaches, would love to hear them.

IMPORTANT CAVEAT: I am NOT a mechanic, and am figuring stuff out just like the other guy. This is more than the normal disclosure; I may have crap advice in here! Proceed with caution...

 

Upon reassemblying the intake manifold/fuel rail, I noticed a couple of items I missed: The blow back lines at the union in front of the manifold, the third connector for the injector harness (master connector and its support), the throttle cable retainer on the port side (needs to be off to pull the port throttle body away from intake manifold), and the correct count of 10mm bolts securing the intake manifold.

On another post, a member removed the intake manifold without removing the fuel rails. He used a flex shaft to get around all of the injector hardware. Seems difficult, but I can see the value in doing so if you can master that flex shaft. Curious how tightening torque can be accurate with a flex shaft (not experienced here, just seems that it would not be accurate; but I could be wrong).

Quick note, when reassemblying, 10nm (88inch-pounds) of torque for the manifold bolts seems to be the consensus on these boards. Also, I went with a dry gasket approach, although I know there is some debate on that. Ricambi has new gaskets for a reasonable price as well. My local dealership, not so much... ;-)

 

For anyone arriving here because of P0116, let me add a couple of quick notes. I was able to clear this problem up by replacing both temp sensors. They were $27 each at Ricambi (thanks guys), or if you are a glutton for punishment, $76 at my local Ferrari dealer. Only one was bad, but after the effort of removing the intake manifold, I didn't want to do it again for this anytime soon.

After removing the intake manifold per the above, I prepped the space with absorbent towels. Pull the electrical connectors off, and loosen each sensor with open end wrench, but do not pull them off. Have replacement sensors prepped and ready. Unscrew sensor keeping downward pressure, and as soon as she starts leaking quickly swap it out with a new one. Some radiator fluid will get out. Lather, rinse, repeat with the other one. Tighten up and reconnect wiring.

At top of the thermostatic valve cover (in front of water line at front of engine block), is a small bolt (part #5 in attached Ricambi diagram). This is not a breather, but will work the same way to get the air you just let into the system out. Remove that, surround it with absorbent towels, and then start to fill the radiator reservoir slowly. Take your time. After awhile, the radiator fluid will start to come out of that hole, and joila, you have bled your coolant lines.

If you don't do that, you will get one scary hot Ferrari. Ask me how I know...

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Great point. I have something like this from Makita on an impact bit for the same reason, and it works like a charm. Putting a small magnet inside the 10mm socket would have been very helpful. Spent too much time fishing slipped bolts in this process.

The person using the flexshaft was doing so to get around the hardware of the injectors without removing them. That seems to be impossible with a wobble-joint/universal socket, but maybe I didn't study it closely enough. Really tight space in there if the injector rail remains on.