Removing radiator fans for refinishing | FerrariChat

Removing radiator fans for refinishing

Discussion in '206/246' started by HMB-Dino, Jan 9, 2011.

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  1. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    Jun 28, 2010
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    RonG
    Is there an easy way to remove the two radiator fans without actually having to remove the radiator? My 71 Euro has a newly re-cored and repainted radiator so I don't want to remove it to do cosmetic restoration on the radiator fans, but it looks pretty tight in that area. Any suggestions (rhetorical question)?
     
  2. champtc

    champtc Formula Junior

    Apr 18, 2004
    732
    If its a euro and no ac ( I don't think they had ac) then there is no condensor unit so I am pretty sure they are held on by a few nuts and I am pretty sure they are a straight lift out. I have mine disassembled & just checked em. I would advise a few things; 1) pretty sure you can unscrew the fans from the units and then take the units out 2) you can drop the units down and take them out of the bottom 3) if you cant get them out without taking out the radiator that in itself isn't too hard. I took mine out of my US GTS with AC condensor still in palce and ruined the condensor - so don't do that . I recall that taking them out of the euro GT was pretty easy. You will notice that they are the only things on the entire car that use SAE nuts and bolts as the fans are made by Lucas (and the mounting hardware). If you are planning on refurbishing them - you can buy the units pretty inexpensively from any Jag supplier as they are used on some of the sedans. If you do remove the radiator it is always a good time to replace the rubber bushings and you will likely need new rubber grommets for the fan mounts too. All in all it is not a hard job to do. Good luck
     
  3. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    No AC in the car (actually, no options at all). I really don't want to remove the radiator since it's only a few months old and why mess with it if I don't need to. The radiator fans work just fine. I just want to remove traces of rust and apply the correct paint scheme (silver motor, black blades...both are black now) in that long, slow process of making the car as `correct' as possible.
     
  4. simonc

    simonc Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2003
    884
    Herfordshire, UK
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    Simon Campbell
    Remove the grill,which is just a couple of screws and you can then remove the fan bales and eventually the fans. It is not a difficult job. Taking out the radiator would seem to be tackling it from the wrong side.

    Not sure about a car with A/C though, mine is a 73 euro spec car.
     
  5. djh4570

    djh4570 Karting

    Sep 14, 2006
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    Danny John Hayes
    Hi Ron The Lucas motors came in both silver or black so either colour is correct .I replaced both of mine last year on my 71 Euro with a pair from XKs unlimited in California www.xks.com
    they also have some nice stainless steel mountings for them if you were thinking of changing them. The fans on my car are 3 bladed cast aluminium and are painted yellow which i have been told was also an original colour on some.The front grill on mine is held in with Pop rivets and was not going to be easy to remove.I removed the blades by loosening the retaining screw which holds them on to the motor shaft(there's a hole about 1/4" diameter in the fan body which you can get a flat bladed screw driver in) then jiggle them off.You can then unbolt the brackets and slacken off the motor body clamps you can carefully slide the motors out and lift them up through the space beside the bonnet hinges. Its quite tricky to get at the nuts but with the bonnet off its not too bad as long as your careful and have a bit of patience. I am sure if you pick the best bits out of several of these replies you will manage it easily Good luck
     
  6. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2003
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    Dave M.
    Believe it or not, you can get them out of a car with A/C too. Takes a ton of patience and care, but it's do-able.

    I think most of the skin has grown back on my knuckles 5 years later after I did it following a burned out fan from a plastic bag getting caught up in the fan blades.

    So without the A/C, should be a relative snap.

    Anyone else have YELLOW fan blades? Never seen that on a Dino, maybe Matthias can help with that one?

    D
     
  7. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    So I finally got around to tackling removal of the radiator fan motors. Got the front grille off after removing the front bumpers (to get access to the front grille side attach screws).

    Removed the nut on the front of the fan motor blades and loosened the set screw. But I can't seem to get the fan blades off...still feel like they're attached somehow. I'm pretty sure the set screw is loose enough and I don't want to risk it falling out and not being able to reinstall it with motor in place later.

    Any suggestions? Remember, I am not removing the radiator to remove the radiator fans
     
  8. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    Guess it just took some extra effort to free the fan blades from the motor shaft. Motors are out, blades are sanded and refinished, aluminum brackets polished. Will treat any signs of rust, repaint and reinstall motors, grille and bumpers.

    This site is just awesome...got hints on removing blades & motors w/o radiator removal. For this rookie, I'd be lost w/o everyone on this site!
     
  9. dinogts

    dinogts Formula 3
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    #9 dinogts, Jan 30, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
    I have seen both square and round Lucas radiator cooling fan motors on Dinos. As noted above, they are readily available from Jaguar suppliers, and it seems to me that they cost less if sourced from Jag suppliers than if from Ferrari suppliers (no surprise there).

    This past summer Scott M ("synchro" on FCHAT) showed me how to replace the ones on one of my Dinos - the driver's side fan started to squeal so I decided to replace both of them. Scott expertly bashed his knuckles first on one of the fans, and then I had the pleasure of bashing my knuckles on the other one. There was no need to remove the bumpers on my car (nor was there a need to do that on Scott's Dinos, apparently) so I don't understand what advantage there is to removing the bumpers - unless RonG's car is radically different from our cars, although we did remove the grille screen and the hood/bonnet.

    Also like djh, I bought the motors from XKs Unlimited in San Luis Obispo, California (North America: 800/444-5247; International: 805/544-7864; www.xks.com).

    In the XKs Unlimited catalog, the square style fan motor is listed as Part Number CO-16452 (New) or LU-78378/RB (Rebuilt).

    The round style fan motor is listed as Part Number LU-78497. According to XKs Unlimited, the round motor was used on the V-12 Jags and is "functionally superior to the 'square' motor." XKs Unlimited has the mounting adapter brackets to allow switching between both types.

    The motors and the mounting brackets shown in the Dino Spare Parts Catalog at Table (Tav.) 14 (the parts catalog to be used from car no. 02132 onward) look identical to the round motors and mounting brackets shown in the XKs Unlimited catalog at pages E124, E129, and E132. XKs Unlimited's prices seemed very reasonable, they were easy to deal with, and they shipped very quickly.

    One last thing - I think that we may have had to reverse the motor leads to obtain the correct polarity to keep the fans moving the air in the proper direction (i.e. TOWARDS AND THROUGH the radiator).

    I hope this helps someone.

    Mark
     
  10. HMB-Dino

    HMB-Dino Formula 3
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    #10 HMB-Dino, Jan 30, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    My front grille was secured by 4 screws; 2 along the top and 1 each at front of riveted seam at each end (see 1st photo). With my 71 Euro having the style of front bumpers that curl in towards the grille (2nd photo), there's extremely little space between the side screws and the inside part of the bumpers. I had no reasonable access to the side screw locations and therefore had to remove the bumpers to remove the grille.
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  11. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Ron, I was not aware of that rubber strip. Where is it set? Is it original?
    Does anyone know what is the proper amount of screws to hold the grille?
    Mine has 8 or so holes, but I suppose half of them were holding the car together...

    Regards, Alberto
     
  12. HMB-Dino

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    #12 HMB-Dino, Jan 30, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The rubber strip fits over the leading edge of the grille frame (see zoomed in view). The car came with it, so I assume it was supposed to be there (ie, original). It certainly gives a nice finishing touch to what would otherwise be a rough leading metal edge. I removed it so I could clean up the chrome grille frame and repaint the fins in-place. I've never done rivets nor do I possess that equipment, so some things are more time consuming or tricky due to lack of experience or lack of tools/equipment.
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  13. GermanDino

    GermanDino F1 Rookie

    Aug 14, 2007
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    the rubber strip is not original
    in the 206 GT "Catalogo Parti di Ricambio" from Scaglietti (also applies for L-series) five screws listed, postion not pointed out
    regards Matthias
     
  14. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Sorry to be off-topic, is the grille painted, or how is it finished?

    Regards, Alberto
     
  15. HMB-Dino

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    #15 HMB-Dino, Jan 30, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
    The grille frame is polished metal while the fins are painted flat or low gloss black (which I just finished repainting after painstakingly masking off the chrome). Given Matthias' comment regarding the rubber edging not being original, I lightly sanded the leading edge of the frame so it's smoother and will keep the rubber edging off.
     
  16. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    #16 Nuvolari, Jan 30, 2011
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
    The grill frame is made from two pieces of aluminum. They are shaped to make a top and bottom half and joined using pop rivets on each end. These rivets are generally hidden by the bumpers that curl into the grill opening. The aluminum is clear annodized before assembly to give it an even silver colour. Often times people will paint these silver or with aluminum paint but it is immediately visible to the observant eye.

    The actual grill is made from bent steel and painted semi-gloss black. It is fixed to the frame using pop-rivets. Here is a place where powdercoating is a great idea because the paint gets great coverage and is super resistant to damage. The grill can be hard to clean and with the powdercoating you can be fairly rough with it when cleaning and it will not show a mark. Paint will very easily flake or peel.

    I also agree with Matthias and have never seen one of these grilles with a black surround. I assume it was added by someone who wanted to 'finish' it off a little. No harm done as it is easy to remove.

    Alberto with the metal masters at your disposal making a grill is childs play for them.
     

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