Removing rear hub - advise needed

The red pill. The blue nuts are only removed to replace the rear wheel bearings, and there's a central ring nut, item 19 here:

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-gt4-dino-1976/035-rear-suspension-shock-absorber-and-brake-discs

that has to be removed before it makes sense to remove the blue nuts (and that central ring nut can only be accessed after taking the red pill). The blue nut/bearing work is typically done on the upright assembly when on the bench.

 

The axle bolt/nut on the CV joint. Do not turn the nuts as they are held captive. The Allen bolts get removed.

That is all..

 

I've lost track of how many axles I've taken apart, and I've only had to cut/split the nuts on one axle on a very neglected example from NY. Daily driven even in winter so road salt really had it's way with it.

A good Allen socket and breaker bar, little heat if needed on the nut. They should remove without too much drama. Cleaning out any road grime from the Allen head really helps though.

 

Cooking in SD? Still 82* here up in Newport...

 

SMG has it right. Buy a new correct size Allen socket. Grind off the round bevel end of the bit so that the end has the most bite. Use a pick to clean the inside of the allen heads of the bolts. Put the bit into the allen head and hammer it in as deep as it goes, then use a long ratchet of 16-18 inch length to break it off. Once the bolts and nuts are all out, soak them in gasoline to clean them all off before you install them back in. Replace any messed up pieces.

 

+1 to SMG's and Mitchell's comments about not using a "cheap", ill-fitting hex tool. I'd PB Blaster (or something equivalent) both the nut threads and the bolt head contact surfaces, but you're always stuck with someone having previously used some permanent threadlocker.

 

The nuts are captive, but not by a lot. A few will turn and round the shoulder. Before the caliper is removed get the axle off. Put a tool like a large screw driver in the rotor vents to hold the axle. Then with a good fitting high quality allen socket and a fairly long ratchet with a good fitting 17mm wrench go around and break them loose. After all are loose take it apart. Those bolts are tight for a reason. Its not by accident they are very high strength fasteners.

 

Yes screwdriver in rotor vent.

 

Small world! Modena Motors was my local F Shop when I bought my ex-308 in 1987. Bill (and Tony Palladino who acquired the shop afterwards) helped me with several projects along the way (setting up distributors, etc.), getting parts (like before the Internet, you know), and learning to speak/understand F. My favorite recollection about Bill (and I hope I have this right) was that he had a 166 in the shop for restoration that the Owner walked away from with ~$30K worth of work done due so far -- but I think Bill made out OK because this was shortly after Enzo's death and the 166 was worth something like $1.3M at the time . We lost Bill way too soon...

 

100% correct. When I repacked the CV joints and put on new boots, this was the easiest way to take them off. It does help if you can get a 3' extention between the socket and the rachet. This puts the rachet outside the foot print of the body, but much better leverage.

 

Eds car was not restored until after he sold it. Ed is largely responsible for the philosophy of preservation, not restoration.

 

Neither -- just a (used) 308 Owner.

 

Just did this today and l I did not have a 3' extension but I did have 3' of extensions and you are correct, that is absolutely the secret. Piece of cake, hope the rest of the job goes as smoothly! Fingers crossed!

 

Nice work , satisfying job