Hi, Can anyone tell me how to disassemble the rear seats of the 400 and the rear side panels? Thank you for your answers
theo I'll give you my best from memory for a Series II 400i. -Removing the rear seats is relatively easy. The lower cushions are held in by a couple of bolts under the front of the seats just above the floor. -Center cushion has 2 or 4 screws you will see after seat cushions are out. -There are now a couple of screws visible for the seat back. With screws out the seat back lifts up over a ledge. -You did not mention removing the parcel deck, it can be tricky. -I never took side panels out, but once the seat back is our there are some screws visible by the rear A/C vent if you have them. There is likely a screw in the middle of the hand grip, like in the front door panel. I hope this helps, it should not be too big a deal. Ken
Yes, I agree - I know mine is a 365 but I've had the whole interior out and what Ken says is similar to how I recall; the rear cushions are secured by two 6mm nuts under the front lip and the centre armrest has 4 self tapping screws etc. The side panel trim is wrapped under the door seal, and under the turned back cover you'll find a screw - there is another at the base about half way along towards the rear bulkhead, and one at the back of the arm rest (vertical). Other than that you have to remove the seat belt, and lift the panel up to 'unhook' the top from the window channel area. At this time you can man handle the rear parcel shelf out if you need to! Hope this helps, although it may be slightly different on the later cars.
Thank you for your help SouthJersey400i and squidmark I could remove the rear seats with ease. This is the back that I can not remove. Under the lip (where there are red arrows) I remove the screws but by lifting something holds them. I'll come back and let you know. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Your advice was good! Just after releasing marked by red arrows screws, raise backrests and it just comes. The side panels are more difficult to remove. back panels are held together by two screws in the rear trunk. it is necessary to remove them carefully to avoid damaging the leather on the sides. Thank you again! Image Unavailable, Please Login
The screws are located at the red arrows. You must then push the seats up to disengage supports the green arrows. Once removed the seats, side panels can be removed by exerting a pressure perpendicular to the body. The operation is difficult because with time the leather is glued to the body. So handle with care. On the other hand, the part behind the rear seats can also be removed by pulling the panels themselves. Image Unavailable, Please Login
If the front seats are still in place it would help if you are double jointed or have a small 13 year old wrench puller on hand. I didn't. Those 6 mm bottom clips are a challenge. Greg
+1! I don't think I would even consider removing the rear seat without first removing the fronts, they actually come out pretty quick!
Is it sacrilege to use dynamat or some similar modern sound deadening? WWDoD? (What would Daytona owners do?)
In my opinion, the best insulation will not harm the integrity of the car. The insulation felt, similar to the original and also exist as effective. But why isolate the most pleasant is that noise?
I'm thinkin' the mufflers under the floor heats up the interior I guess not a bad thing for you cold weather owners.
There is a double layer floor above the mufflers. With the mufflers off, I removed the bottom aluminum panels that are pop-riveted on. The old insulation had deteriorated and I replaced it with some insulation used by NASCAR teams.
I assume you used oem rivets... Al, seriously, that's a good repair/ update to post photos & materials sourcing! Come on guys, lets get more technical threads going.
lol +1!! All of us 'will' benefit from it,...this is about the 'only' place stuff like this can be found. I also planned on drilling out the rivets to see what was behind it when I get to replacing the exhaust system, thanks for the heads up. Do post the particulars when you find them
I found the vendor I bought the insulation from and they no longer carried it. It was a stock car racing parts supplier. I did some research and found info on another similar product. I would use this if I were doing it now. The supplier is EZ Cool Automotive Insulation EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more The following URL has a users experience. Checkout the end of their posting on the heat transfer tests he performed. Pretty impressive. citroen cx insulation
