Removing Steering Wheel Hub

Do a search on "FR105" and/or "Baum"

 

Measure it!!!!

I got the wrong size for my TR, and needed to return to Baum and get the smaller size. My bad....

 

I went out and bought a 1 1/8" deep socket and ground it down to fit the 4 slots. Took about 15 mins. and works just fine. Cost me $6 for the socket and now I have it forever. Enjoy the ride

 

Chris,
Verell has one of those ring nut sockets and I borrowed it to pull my wheel for some work on the headlight switch stalk. I don't want to volunteer someone else's tools but you might drop Verell a line.

When I pulled mine, I found I needed a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off because it was so tight even after I pulled the nut. You are welcome to borrow mine if you need it.

Jonathan

 

The Baum socket is pricey but you don't want to strip that bolt..you will also need a sterring wheel puller..it was not ez to find one that fit and worked well...also as you can see the nut has a plastic locking disc to it and really should not be reused...you shold source a new fresh one from a supplier like ted rutland or elsewhere...caution... BE VERY VERY CAREFUL with your combination light switch stalk...is is unobtainable and very very very pricey to replace....do not open this inside the column...all the old plastic will crumble and ball bearings will fly around and it is dicey work to put that switch back together again...so replace the wheel mount but don't mess beyond that without proper research and preparation.

 

CARMINE posted this tip in the old Fchat:

"If you need to remove to column switch, you can make a tool to remove the ring nut with a piece of 1 1/4 inch diameter pipe. I went to Home Depot
and picked up a piece of galvanized pipe, divided the circumference into four, and grinded the grooved pattern. "

Just drill a 5/16" hole across the other end & stick a 1/4" extension or phillips screwdriver thru it to turn it with.

That's a nylon locknut on the column.

Also, if you're using the Baum tool, tie a piece of dental floss of fishing line to the horn fastener & stuff it down inside the hole it comes up thru. The Baum Tool is so large that it cuts the horn wire if you don't do this(been there).

When done, just fish the contact out.

 

Chris,
See Birdman's post earler in this thread. The hub fits fairly tightly, & any original lubricant will have set up.
Hadn't realized who was posting. You can borrow my Baum & steering wheel puller tools & maybe have that lunch we've been trying to get together on..

 

Have never used a puller for the hub.

Loosen nut but do not remove, leave steering wheel on, sit in car with knees propped up against steering wheel rim putting upward pressure on wheel(legs wedged between floor and strng whl). With a large drift and a large hammer pop the end of the shaft sharply a couple of times and the wheel with hub will pop off.

I and many other Ferrari mechanics have removed thousands of hubs that way.

 

DUH, Same principle as a hammer on one side of a ball joint fitting & whacking the other.

Now why didn't I think of doing it that way. Guess it's because I've always had a steering wheel puller around.

Tnx Rifledriver.

 

yes it works, but I personally avoid working with sharp hits on any assemblies where ball bearings are involved. And there are two of those which have to absorb such hits.

Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

He'll probably have to use a puller and smack that if this turns into the usual F project

 

I woould try to avaoid hiitting the steerign column for all kinds of reasons..the plastic is very brittle on those electrical parts inside there

 

The column switch is not inline with the forces from the jolt.

The ball bearings in the column are a legitimate concern that I'll have to think about before tapping the column. - good point.