Image Unavailable, Please Login Push in on tab 1 Then rock the connector out as in 2. I will try to take a video of how the door connectors work, they are the same.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Here is another look at what you are trying to do. the yellow outlined hook on the left needs to come under the rod that is holding it. You accomplish that by rocking the whole connector counter (anti) clockwise.
Definitely different from the F355. Worst design ever. Anyway, the pivot point should be furthest from the pins (to put less stress on the pins), so you need to work on the big clip. If you look at pics of the ECU online, there is a lip which has to be cleared. Image Unavailable, Please Login Do you have to push here to push the big latch away from the lip by applying pressure here? Image Unavailable, Please Login I've worked on this type catch before, but can never figure out what I did to release it. (Sorry, crossposted)
Got the ECU out after a bit of a struggle. No signs of water damage / pin corrosion etc. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You can open it up with a bit of fiddling, just tape the box shut in the end. When you refit the plug, be sure it is square to the box, otherwise your central locking not working.
Very easy to open end cover - can’t see anything burnt out etc?? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The uk dealer was saying they could have trouble with condensation. I think I have a new one somewhere.
Thanks Mike. In a rash and optimistic moment I took the decision yesterday to buy a new one via Eurospares (must be the hot weather we are experiencing in South of England at the moment - just not used to it!). So I will soon know if faulty or not. keeping fingers crossed!
The pins and internals look fine. It would have been interesting to do some wiring checks, but I do see some wire colour changes on your car (compared to my Scud diagrams). Would you have a picture of the wire colours of the solo plug (opposite side to this earlier photos you took)? Image Unavailable, Please Login Here is a possible pinout for the visible side: 16 Driver Window Motor Power (yellow with writing) 15 Driver Window Motor Power (Green with writing) 14 Unused 13 Fused Battery Power (Blue) PSF7 12 Fused Battery Power (Blue/red) PSF3 11 Key power (yellow/black) 10 Passenger Window motor power (White/?????) If positive, window goes down. 9 Passenger Window motor power (Grey/?????) If positive, window goes up
Continued... Pin 8 Unused Pin 7 To Door ECU Grey/yellow??? Pin 6 To Door ECU Black/purple Pin 5 Ground (black) Pin 4 Ground (black) Pin 3 To Door ECU (Grey/white?) Pin 2 Roof data wire (colour???) Pin 1 Roof data wire (colour???)
Hi. Put new brand new Windows ECU module in and turned battery back on etc Wonder of wonders - the fob lock / unlock working and the window slight drop when close / open doors working well BUT the roof opens most of way and closes and locks with dashboard beep that successfully closed. Guess microswitch(s) faulty?? See photos - the roof opens and drops into the rear compartment but then stops. Any ideas? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After a cup of tea, just looked at roof operation again. In my joy of the ECU change success, I did not realise that the flaps either side had not dropped so guessing that’s what’s stopping the final bit of roof opening operation? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I need to setup my phone camera to video operation of roof as can’t see it whilst holding roof switch! Maybe the flaps go down (roof folds away) but are not going up, to then signal the main rear cover to close?
Just been looking at YouTube vids of roof problems and could be the elastic in roof not folding the roof correctly so it won’t trip the roof stowed correctly microswitch. I’ve just noticed that the right side rear hump bit of the soft top is not lying flat to the hump bodywork. It has about half to three quarters of an inch gap. Other side is Ok.
Well, I’ve found the fault with the hump part of soft top not going fully down - it was the cable with a hook on end had come out of the hole. Put back and now roof goes down all the way over the right hump. I’ve looked at the roof when folded in its bay and doesn’t seem wrong to me - but I may well be wrong! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sadly putting the cable hook back didn’t mean that the roof completed its opening cycle. Closes fine and now both humps of the soft top are flat to the bodywork as used to be. I guess I will to code read live of roof operation and should give a good idea what’s causing it to stop opening.
This is pic of roof folded in bay. Does it look wrong? When roof closed doesn’t seem crumpled so guessing elastic Ok? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That doesn't seam right for some reason. It should fold into the tub and it seems the window area is resting on top. I think maybe that first bar is not folding backwards as the top goes down? Are your elastics shot?
I can't see any photo in which your flaps aren't down. Those side panels (circled) are not the flaps. Image Unavailable, Please Login The flaps are hidden behind these until the roof is fully down. Here's part of the flow chart. Image Unavailable, Please Login Perhaps E.V/Z and E.V/A are not in the right positions. Here are their locations: Image Unavailable, Please Login EVZ (canvas not in tub) is in the right position (unpushed/logic 0). I can't tell what position EVA (canvas fully down in tub) is in. If you use a stick to push on EVA whilst operating the console roof switch, the roof lid and flaps may start to work (but I would fix up your elastics first to ensure proper stowage). I didn't see a link to your original roof issue thread, so, for continuity.... https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f430f1-spider-roof-dead-as-a-dornail.705026/
Thanks for the great info. I have ordered replacement roof elastics kit and will see if it does the trick. Should come by end of week and i'll post result.
