Removing Tight Oil Pressure Sender, Any Tricks?

Often it helps with a tight fit wrench to eliminate slipping. If it moves a little, some penetrant fluid could help.

If nothing works, I guess I would have opened the sensor to get access to the nut and used a socket wrench, maybe also removed the manifold to get a better grip of it to counterhold in a vice.

Heating it with an air blower.

Just some ideas.

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David, I made my own wrench just for the this sending unit but of course this only works if the sender is not stuck, but like you said if it won’t budge, the best thing is to remove the oil filter base, this way you can also put new gasket under the base.

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"My oil pressure gauge has been showing some erratic behavior just recently so I decided to replace the oil sender unit."

Did y0u confirm it IS the sensor as opposed to a wiring connection/corrosion/bad ground? I wouldn't do any more work on trying to remove the sensor until you have confirmed it to be the problem.

 

Agreed. If it's like many gauges, just put the car to "on" (not running), short the wire to ground and see if you get a full sweep from 0-max. (Not completely sure about THIS sensor working that way, but there's a general theory.)

 

If the sensor is no good anyway just knock the brass colored stuff off and get access to the hex. But before doing that use some heat on the aluminum and wrench it off. Also a few sharp raps with a hammer on the hex helps too before you go at it. Getting a wrench on it then smacking the wrench with hammer can do it too. There are many ways to skin a cat. These were terrible sensors. I have even had new sensor not work well. Ferrari electronics...only better than Lucus.

 

I do not know. I have never had that much problem getting one off. If the sender body is strong you can do what we do with stuck oil filters. Drive a stout screwdriver through the steel case since the sensor is a broke anyway. keep the wrench on it too then you got 2 sources of torque to lefty loosey rip that thing off. You can rip the case off and get to the hex. If you look at your new sensor you can see how the can is swagged onto the hex.

 

They can almost weld themselves on because the steel reacts with aluminum and corrodes. You can add in heat with propane torch and spray some WD40 and reapply heat. That soaks wd40 into the joint and comes off like magic. There are many ways to go at this.

 

I had one yrs ago that was damn near welded on. The engine was out on the bench, which made it alot easier.. Though after taking the housing off the block it would not budge loose. Propane torch, atf acetone and a vise along with a hammer wrench.. It finally came loose.
The washer had rusted and corrosion welded it together. A real PITA!

I really hate the lack of clear access to that assy and part.

I'm trying to recall what the guts of the sensor looks like... I think it's got a base plate and capillary tube and resistance wiper...I think. It's been a long time since I saw one busted one open..

 

Honestly, I don't know. At a certain point it'll come apart. How difficult will that be though....?

The only other option is to remove it from the block... But that can be a pain.

 

Might be helpful to just spray a little PB blaster on the threads daily, then after a few days give it another go? If you’re exerting that much force trying to break it free, it would get really ugly if you ended up twisting the end of the sending unit off with threads still stuck in the aluminum block.

 

Got this pics from the internet, not sure if its the same but at least it gives you an idea what could may look like inside and more or less know what you’re dealing with.

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If I remember correctly the cap is swaged on but the base and fitting are unified. So if you use large Channellock's on the outer base you will get more leverage. Try the wrench first of course because the pliers attack is heading down the road of no return. Also, if you were to remove the filter base set aside an entire weekend to get the old gasket cleaned off the block. Been there, done that.

 

"it would get really ugly if you ended up twisting the end of the sending unit off with threads still stuck in the aluminum block."

ABSOLUTELY!!!! Be very careful here. The usual heat/penetrant methods will probably get it loose EVENTUALLY. Take your time. Also, try tightening the fitting. Yep, tighten it! Often a frozen/seized fitting will break loose easier if tightened. It only will require the slightest bit of movement. Don't apply any more torque than you are applying in the loosening direction but there's a fair chance that it will move. If it moves at all, that's enough. Then you can loosen it in stages if necessary: loosen a tiny bit/retighten/loosen more/retighten...etc etc. Good Luck!

As mentioned, the worst thing would be to shear the sending unit from the threads. Have you confirmed that the gauge/wiring/connections are OK?

 

In these situations I have had luck taking advantage of time, heat, and a penetrating concoction. I learned the hard way to be patient. Heat, soak, wait a few hours, then apply torque in both directions. Keep repeating until you feel it move. These things can make the most evil sound when they eventually break loose. Also, if it breaks loose but binds up again before coming all the way out, stop and soak it, then wait a bit before coming back at it with the wrench.

 

My favorite old school oil mix is 50:50 ATF & acetone. Liquid wrench is decent as well... Marvel mystery oil is another one.

Heat, oil... Wait.. try.. repeat as needed.