Removing windshield / rear window, 355?

It's hard not to delaminate the rear glass if you try to save the rubber seal. First hand experience. If the rubber is available, use a putty knife to cut the rubber out first before removing the rear glass from the inside.
The front one a good installer should be able to remove. No one guarantees a safe removal, but then again, I have not had one crack before.

 

Removing is the best option~~~~~~~

Cons~
Destroyed weatherstrips
Broken glass

Another option which is pretty good if the paint is in great shape around the windows.
They make a "rope mask" In a NUT shell its a rope you insert at the edge of weatherstrip slightly lifting it up enough so you can sand and get paint in there.

Cons~
If you have old weatherstrip (dried out) and leave on to long or even the oven baking may cause it to deform.
This is a widely used option whenever possible. I think the rear glass is a good candidate for this and what I would do if the body seams are in good shape.


EDIT

I forgot about this stuff also, works really well on tight seal




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNAkj2ULacU[/ame]
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Exactly

I cant understand the BS detailers throw at new cars for "paint correction" they remove more paint then is acceptable. They dont have enough to start with.

I say that with all doo doo respect LOL

 

Im in the same boat, as I need to get my glass out, My local glass guy totally bailed on me and I havent found another one id trust, mostly for the front glass removal/install.

The seal and trim set up is not like most cars as the rubber seal I think is glued to the metal trim, but it seems bradens guys use the old piano wire on the front glass. I know the lower corner trim comes off but its something I haven't tackled yet myself.

 

When i was debating tint for my car i read a post about how an installer broke the original one after tinting it on a bench and then the dealer broke the second one as well.

Its also a crazy expensive piece of glass, like $5k i think.
Be careful

 

Yes, they are a bit spendy... looked at a car last year that needed front and rear glass due to severe delamination. Looked to be about $1k and change for the front, and around $3k for the rear, based off of my recollection.

 

That 3m masking trim tape sucks at retaining the rubber trim gasket on the front glass, it just slips off and doesnt hold it back, the rope trick would be best if you dont want to pull the windshield.

 

Dave, if I recall correctly, when my spider windshield was replaced the OEM glass was around $4k and the trim was $1.6k. That was 4 years ago.
I understand the trim is nearly impossible to save on a 348/355.
I used the installer FoNE recommended for mine. They actually did the install at FoNE. I had an airbag code I needed them to clear with the SD2 while I was there.

 

Dave, mine was replaced in MA under my glass coverage no questions asked. Going thru FoNE insured OEM glass was used. At the time 355 windshields were hard to get.

 

I just took advantage of the awesome GBP to USD exchange rate courtesy of BREXIT (1.34) and bought both the windshield and trim/seal kit from Eurospares, which is currently in-transit. They have the OEM F355 glass in stock on sale through October for like 545.00 GBP for the F355 version with the embedded antenna. Mine is the original and is badly de-laminated. The trim kit unfortunately wasn't on sale, but it is in stock.

They have four versions of the OEM glass in stock on sale right now: with and without the embedded antenna (355 with vs. 348 without) both with and without light scratches. The OEM glass with the embedded antenna without any scratches is the most expensive of the four at 545.00 GBP, which is what I bought. I confirmed that it was factory OEM with the correct Ferrari Sigla markings, antenna, and mirror mount before purchasing. I'll report back once I receive the parts and inspect.

 

Shipping to the U.S. was 366.00 GBP, which is the only real downside.

 

Hey Dave, my friends 98 Berlinetta had a full repaint the rear glass broke upon removal at the paint shop. Id be very careful about removing that glass replacement cost was circa 5K AUD. As Tim stated taping under trim line is a good and safe option. Id only remove the front window if I were to replace it.

The rear window seams to be the biggest risk. Front window is hard to remove without damaging trim.

 

For the high priced, hard to find rear glass didn't Plugzit/ Bruce find a high quality plexi glass option? When I was changing from the mouse belts to a regular shoulder belt system in my 348 I slipped with a wrench and hit he edge of my rear glass. After a couple of drives it cracked out. I almost went in with Bruce on one of the plexiglass ones at that time to save on shipping from overseas. My rear glass is still cracked and I need to address it one of these days.

 

Hey Dave,

Consider a vinyl wrap solution. My '95 could also use a re-spray, and after seeing a quote of $12k, I started to look at different options. I good wrap job would cost around $2500, and the wraps of today are very high quality and last 10-15 years. Not only that, but you could do something wild with no regrets. Many people are wrapping their exotics these days. Just something to think about.

 

Will you lose points for having a 2 stage paint job? I mean can they even tell other than it look really good?

 

Is there a rule book on what the judge?

 

I believe the gasket is glued to the trim, then the trim, is glued to the glass.

When I look at bradens threads in the new york section, his glass guys use the good old piano wire to take out the front glass.

His guys obviously are experienced as they always do glass out paint jobs.

Im sure one or two were broken in the learning process.

Its so easy to break glass even using the right tools sometimes it just happens.

Its a slippery slope for sure.

 

The rubber seal/gasket is not stuck to the metal trim. The trim slots into a recess in the rubber and is then fitted to the glass minus the bottom piece of trim which you fit after. You can then fit the small corner pieces. You can easily save the trim but the seal is another matter. Ive read that some have removed the screen and reused the trim and seal. Maybe so but I was not taking any chances and obtained the parts before removal. As I had new we didn't try very hard to save it. It may be possible though. Trim was perfect but useless as the rubber is not available separately. Only had a few photos of this job.

Pic. 1 is the new assembly fitted showing the inside of the glass. Only rubber showing.
Pic 2 is showing the outside. Trim still has a protective film on it.
Pic 3 Rubber separated from the metal trim.
Pic 4 Fitting.
Pic 5 New screen fitted.
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