It was broken on the harness right at the point where the crimped on connect ends. Wire broke inside the insulation and would make intermittent contact from vibration at about 4k. It was like a rev limiter. It would run smooth as silk to 4k then breakup and go no higher. Found it by pulling on the individual wire. On the bad on the insulation stretched like a rubber band.
Totally agree!!. My car was flashing SDL (no CEL), I assumed it was due to the cat ECUs so I replaced them (green ones) with the Technistrada equipment. I was fortunate enough to order the thermocuples (just in case, since apparently they are not usually the origin of the the SDL) because, when checking the installation in my car, I realised that one thermocouple was totally bended and thus, malfunctioning. So I replaced the 2 ECUS and 2 thermocuples. Surprinsingly, the SDL light and engine loss of power didn't stop there... until we realised that one coil was off. We replaced the coil and ... no SDL anymore. So, conclusion, there are other potential places to look at when SDL flashes
Guys - I am a little confused with all of the chatter. My 355 has these issues and I would love to get this fixed as it makes the car unreliable and a bear to drive. Can someone help me as to what is actually available from who or where. Thank you, Bob 631.525.2136 [email protected]
If you don't understand the previous chatter, it's probably best to start a new thread and explain exactly what your issues are and we can give you personal service. I wish I had a dollar for every time someone said their issues were the same and weren't. What type of engine management system do you have? Y shaped air inlet tract? What warning lights are you getting? Do you have any way of extracting fault codes from your ECU/ECUs? What recent maintenance have you had done (e.g. major with engine out)? Do you have a standard exhaust system. Is your tachometer working? Are you a DIY guy? Do you know the difference between a MAF and coilpack? Have you ever used an ohmmeter or voltmeter before? Do you know where your relay/fuse panels are? How is it unreliable? Does it fail to start or stops sometime after you have started it? And most importantly, what is a bear like to drive?
I have a set of the Technistrada Dummy Load Slow Down Light Bypass for the 5.2 F355 engine that I would let go for $40 if you were interested and wanted to get rid of the check engine light from the (2) exhaust ECU's triggering it.
Thanks guys. I was foolishly hoping for some quick shotgun fix - haha Obviously, I need to get some diagnostics hooked up to this beast - Maybe we could start there. This is a November 94 build with 2.7 ecus what the hell do I need to hook up and with what software to look at all of this? Does anyone have a full schematic available and maybe a flow chart of what is supposed to be going on? I am a VERY hands-on electrical engineer with years of experience designing and building embedded control systems. Yes, I have used a DMM a few times I was hoping to avoid a deep dive on this but it now seems inevitable so any and all help will be appreciated. Recent engine out for suicidal water pump with belts and usuals done at the same time. I have owned this car for 4 years and have had variations of these issues from day one but much worse lately. " check 1234, check 5678 occasional slow downs. Cylinders cutting out with accompanying power loss. Intermittently cutting in and out etc Cats may be cored out and not sure of sensor status- What a mess ---- Thanks
Indeed. Does the car get much use? I have wiring diagrams if you need them. Is it a Euro car? I'm assuming you have a USA car, although I thought 94's were only Euro cars (?). USA cars have functioning Check Engine and Slow Down lights, so that may also mean you have a couple of test buttons near the ECUs in the engine compartment. See (3) Image Unavailable, Please Login You'll probably need a copy of the WSM test procedure: Image Unavailable, Please Login Carry out the test for both ECUs. Do you know if your injectors have been serviced recently? How fresh is your fuel? Are you aware of the common issues like the rubber components of the fuel pumps perishing? Anyway, codes may help with diagnosis.
Thank you - I will get back to you I do not think this is a fuel problem - fuel is fresh. I generally take it out for a buzz every week but it is a little bitchy to drive... Why do you think fuel at all ? Can I hook up diagnostic computer? Details Please -
Only to a 5-figure Ferrari SD1 diagnostic tool. The pushbutton test might give us some idea of what's going on for somewhat cheaper. The chart is a little hard to read and the codes may be mixed up. We would expect the codes for the 348 (2.7) and the 355 (2.7) to be the same, but they aren't and we are not sure which is wrong. Not sure which message you're referring to. Well, I'm no expert, but either fuel or spark is causing improper combustion. This can lead to unburnt fuel in the exhaust manifold and high temperatures at the cats = SD lights. Contaminants can gum up the injectors causing improper control. Have you tried a fuel additive to clean out the injectors? (probably too late, but I'd try the cheap/easy fixes first). You have faults on both banks and, for the most part, the L & R engine sensors and power are isolated from each other, so it's hard to come up with a common fault other than fuel. On the power side, you have to go all the way back to the relay panel to find a common source of power for injectors and igniters. Do you have an aftermarket immobiliser? If your car is later than engine number 38321, the car has a single cam sensor, so I suppose that could be faulty. But depending on how long you've left maintenance undone, there could be different faults on each bank. I'll give you the 1995 diagrams. I think they will be the closest to your late '94. RH Bank: https://www.dropbox.com/t/rTqxOdrTeeAyExuM LH Bank: https://www.dropbox.com/t/lqotB11UKQJ6BZjK Power going to the engine management systems: https://www.dropbox.com/t/dVxJcwaRhILBwO4a
OK So do you have the Codes? Does anyone have a flow chart of the ECU Code - maybe I will work on one...
Not sure what you mean by flow chart of the ECU code. The 348 code chart just has a brief description of the fault. I don’t have access to my manuals at the moment but a quick search of the forum showed this:
Oh wow - Thank you! By flow chart of the ECU code - I meant a flow chart of the ECU software (code) not the generated fault codes. Sorry for being confusing - But if I had an SD1 I could hook it up?
I believe so. Since the wiring diagrams don't show any additional dataports, I assume you plug it into where the US test button goes (and it utilises the 3rd wire).
Thanks, everyone - I have been out of commission for a few weeks but am back now. I appreciate all the help and will update the thread as I have additional details -
I have been watching this thread...so I have a 97 spider oem manifolds, tube style exhaust and 200 cel cats. Had an engine out in January this year with injectors cleaned and valve job/guides. Runs /sounds great but I get cel that keeps coming back. thermo couple code and I think a hot cat. My laser thermometer shows about 350 F on the cats. No sdl so could it still be the cat ecu's or the thermocouples? I have no problem investing in new ones if that is my next step. thanks!!
Did the CEL come on when you picked up the car after the engine out? If so, could the RH cat and bypass thermocouple plugs be swapped over? Does your SDL light work? Do you have an OBD2 scanner?
I had the cel on before the engine out and had the new cats on for about 10 miles until I burnt through my valve and then it went straight to the shop. They checked the ecu's and cleaned them and plugged them back in so Im sure they are in the right spots. Not sure if the sdl light works, should it go on when I start the car? I don't have an obd scanner but the guy at the shop will stop over and bring his anytime.
Yes. My Ferrari trained tech got my ECUs mixed up. Wire colours or wiring checks may help you figure out which plug goes where. Excellent. Let us know how you go. Could be a bypass valve issue rather than a main cat issue.
You mentioned hot cats. I just assumed a non-functioning bypass valve might keep the temperatures high… although I just noticed you quoted the temperature in Fahrenheit. I would wait for the scan results.
