Replacing bulkhead insulation

Look up car insulation uk they do different grades depending on the temp, a good one is listed for 180 C
Various thickness 6, 10 mm self adhesive. Not expensive so might be ideal

 

I think the US cars have another metal skin there though. Underneath your foam (on a Euro) car the metalwork will look like a dog's breakfast.

If you are going to replace it then it needs to be with some silicone based foam - nothing else will stand the heat from the front manifold.

You can do it with the engine in the car with a bit of patience. You need to drain the fuel tanks and move them back (which means disconnecting the cross-over pipe) in order to get the foam behind the tanks. Silicone foam is quite dense so it doesn't want to be to thick other wise you won't be able to re-install the tanks.

 

You need to select the tab for the spec, it is there, send them an e mail for info as they may have supplied your 328 before

 

Perhaps this thread might help? F-Chatter member "Alfer" did it recently...

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/529772-328-engine-bay-sound-deadening-help.html

Rgds

 

get rid of everything: just spray some light grey paint or just place there a flexible aluminium sheet

ciao

 

I think i forgot to give you full site details it should be Car Insulation UK| The Car Soundproofing, Van Insulation & Car Sound Deadening Experts!

E mail is info@ carinsulation.co.uk

 

Ordinary stuff from car soundproofing suppliers wont work, it will not withstand the heat as its only an inch or so from the exhaust.

The UK source I used was www.foamtechniques.co.uk

 

Did u look at the web site as they do thermal types.

 

What I use is a closed cell foam, with skin, the trade name is ArmaFlex, or something close to that spelling.

Do be careful if exposed to extreme heat, but if Ferrari used that cr@ppy open cell foam OEM, ArmaFlex is better for things like radiator hood seals, A/C wrap (it's industry use) and so forth. Being a closed cell structure, it will not wick up water.

 

Cuts like butter, using the bread knife you stole from the last gf....

Really flexible material..

 

You might also consider Aerogel which is a spin-off from Space Shuttle thermal tiles and is now available as flexible blankets:
BuyAerogel.com | Blankets

(I have no experience with this stuff, but it seems like a good idea.)

 

There is NO NEED to take out the engine. I have done it with engine in, as mentioned before. It could be combined with an engine-in cam belt change and its not a huge amount of extra work. If doing it again I would remove the RH tank as I did before rather then just pull it back. That also makes timing belt access a doddle. Dont allow him to take the engine out for this! There are no other jobs which benefit, as these cars are designed such that everything can pretty much be done with it in.

I also did it without a lift. If there are 2 people working, and a lift, it would be easy.

Foam such as Armaflex will not work. I was lucky enough to do mine after someone else did his with this type of nitrile foam and it burned from the exhaust so I used silicone which is the same condition now as when I fitted it 4 years ago. There are plenty of other materials available which will take the heat if you dont mind it looking different from the original charcoal grey 10mm foam.

 

Thanks for that Andy.

Glad I put that caveat into my post!

I use it more under the front bonnet...

 

Indeed. Also done with the engine in & without a lift - though the first time I did it the engine was out.

see below for why I had to do it again

Its worth taking the engine out if you then take a decision to do a whole raft of other work, otherwise don't bother. Everything can be done with the engine in but I decided to take it out & aside from giving me very easy access to replace the foam, I refurbished everything else in there - heatshields, fuel tanks, manifolds etc etc. I also put a new clutch in it while it was out, new belts/bearings etc & cleaned & refurbished the whole engine. Did the shift shaft seals as well. Had the starter & alternator rebuilt & had a whole lot of stuff re-plated too.Its viable to do all that if you DIY, I don't like to think what it would have cost to get someone else to do it.