REPLACING THE ABS/ASR PUMP IN THE 360

Jojera · Aug 7, 2012

Am looking for a replacement ABS unit as mine has failed. Any tips on where to source?

Mitch Alsup · Aug 7, 2012

vrsurgeon said: ↑

Picture of pins on the ABS connector.
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Imagin that, an ABS connector made in ABS plastic.....

PrecisionMike · May 10, 2020

trbo94 said: ↑

I had the abs/asr light come on in my car

But spoke with vrsurgeon and read this post. The job was easier then I thought more like a 5 out of 10 but I have small hands.

I just replaced the motor on the back of the abs unit for $60 its the same one that comes on a4 abs units. Put it in and drove the car right when I got on the street the light came off and the car runs great now. Thanks vrsurgeon again for the right up. And for anyone that has the issue it is only about 4-5 hours total of your time and $60 to replace the motor for the abs pump.
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Hi, just for future reference do mean an Audi A4 for the motor?

PrecisionMike · May 13, 2020

FerrariDublin said: ↑

Hmm..... go carefully for a while and test and test again.

I'd be concerned that your unit may contain quite a bit of air and be largely ineffective when called upon to function in an emergency braking situation. In normal mode, as I understand it, the incoming hydraulic pressure is allowed to simply pass through the unit to the output side and if that's the case bleeding that element of the system is probably quite straightforward. The danger is that there are chambers within the system to which no fluid has yet reached.

Perhaps someone with experience of having replaced one of these units can chime in?
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Hi Ferrari Dublin.....I'm in the process of doing a brake fluid flush with a pressure bleeder. I'll do the clutch too. I'm concerned that without cycling the abs/ asr that the fluid in the normally closed system (ie abs not called for) will not be changed. My concern is that if the abs is never activated over a long time the fluid around the tiny valves will be old and nasty. Did you ever get to the bottom of wether an sd2 is required or not?

PrecisionMike · May 13, 2020

vrsurgeon said: ↑

Greg,

The pins were actually pretty clean.. I was sooo excited last night on the test drive and relieved that I got it in, and the brakes work fine that I didn't press things further.

I did an agressive stop and I didn't have any problems.. I'm PRESUMING that you have to get the SD2 bleed to have it done right.. don't worry this dardevil will test things out further in the next week. Since Bosch made the unit, I can't imagine that their engineers would require an SD2 in order for the system to work, that seems counter to the failsafe design principles of modern braking systems. I wonder if ferrari stipulates an SD2 bleed to ENSURE no small bubbles are in the unit, and secondly as a legal disclaimer. I bled three bottles of brake fluid through the system. It should be bubble free by now, and you don't have to start the car to bleed it. Pumping the pedal when the car is off is sufficient. I'll let you know how things work out. (I'll post the pins tonight when I get home)

The motor itself actually is held on with two size 25 (I think) Torx screws. It's coming off this week and I'll post the motor part number here on fchat as well for posterity. FUN!
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Hi, firstly fantastic write up and I know it's a long time ago but I've only relatively recently got my 360. Did you ever need the sd2 to bleed the unit. ? I'm getting mixed messages from various sources but from my understanding if there was no fluid in the unit (purely for illustration)and tbe main system conventionally bled brakes would work fine until the abs was called upon to do its job in which case the pedal would hit the floor as the valves let fluid into fresh air in the unit.

vrsurgeon · May 13, 2020

PrecisionMike said: ↑

Hi, firstly fantastic write up and I know it's a long time ago but I've only relatively recently got my 360. Did you ever need the sd2 to bleed the unit. ? I'm getting mixed messages from various sources but from my understanding if there was no fluid in the unit (purely for illustration)and tbe main system conventionally bled brakes would work fine until the abs was called upon to do its job in which case the pedal would hit the floor as the valves let fluid into fresh air in the unit.
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I did not. I just did an old fashion bleed. Fluid will push through the unit. Put a collector at each wheel and then push the pedal gradually to the floor. I did discover that the nipples on the master cylinder might need bleeding as well to get a completely firm pedal. The bosch designers of the system intended the braking system to work even if you have a "power outage". The ABS and ASR just "augment" the bragging system. 9-10 years since I did mine and she brakes and runs perfect.

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