Restoring 308 Bumpers

It'll have missing sections of the top bar, and IIRC the vertical bars offset as well.....not pretty...

 

Reply to US Grill with Euro bumper.

It was awful. I didn't bother taking pictures. Overall there is a gap at the top and there are two larger gaps where the US bumper bulges down. Two of the vertical bars also take a weird bend. You might be able to make it look good by adding driving lights in the gaps, but that seems a bit gosh for a Ferrari.

 

The front US bumper is a different profile part......the sections that "drop down" were an attempt to avoid "override" in a collision IMO......so the lower grill shape is to avoid that feature......

You'd want a euro grill, to look proper......

 

Me three.
Viva la bumper Americana!


If you want, I have two bumper shocks that have been compressed via parking lot taps that are yours for the cost of shipping...about $20.

 

I've posted this link here in the past, but a whack of pictures showing the Euro bumper and front grille conversion of a USA spec car are on my website at:

http://groups.msn.com/ferrari308gtsi

And, while you are at it, install a Euro spoiler, too.

Cheers - DM

 

Dave80GTSi,

Did you do the Euro rear bumper? If yes, what did you do about the heat?

79 and 80 must be different. The Euro front bumper had nowhere near the same bolt spacing as my US bumper. I needed to fabricate new brackets. Additionally, the mounting shocks weigh almost as much as the bumper. They are overkill to mount a piece of plastic that can barely stop bugs.

IMHO the Euro bumpers are integrated into the design much better that the US versions. Also, getting rid of all of that weight at the ends of the car had a significant impact on handling near its limits, especially in how the car responds to changes in throttle position in the center of a turn.

 

Hi Guys,

We, MAcarbon, are the company that sells the brackets to pull in the front bumper. They are high strength aluminum tube that we then powder coat satin black. It's actually easier to replace the struts than to drill them. Plus, you'll have your OEM stock struts if you sell the car. As for protection in an accident, these are rigid brackets so as we say in the aftermarket industry "for off road use only". (But how much are 25 year old struts really going to help in an accident?) They pull the bumper in the maximum amount without actually modifying the bumper or your car - it is fully reversible. They'll fit all years of 308. Attached is a photo comparing the "before" and "after". (On different cars of course.)

Although you won't save much weight, you'll get the Euro look for 1/10 the total cost of going the full Euro route. Cost is $125/set. PM me or give us a call or email if you'd like a set.

John Borchelt
MAcarbon
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I guess there are 3 of us...the first 308 I ever saw was the US version around 1980...I much prefer the US bumpers to the Euro. I also like the exhaust grate on the back...anyway, I know this has nothing to do with the thread, but Doc and Bird...I'd like to join the P3B club

 

I bought those brackets. Have not installed them yet, waiting on my Euro Spoiler and will put them both on in the winter.

 

ok wher can I get one plug & play euro bumper for an american 308?

 

Butch Hooper in Arizona has the bolt-on fiberglass front bumper which I used (see my post with picture link about 6 spaces up). Direct fit onto the OEM front bumper shocks, see web link for pictures for all of the mounting details.

I still have my OEM USA rear bumper, as I wanted the 'bump' protection back there.

If I hit someone with the fiberglass front bumper ... shame on me, I had it coming.

If I am hit on my OEM rear bumper .. shame on them!

Cheers - DM

 

I think this qualifies based on the original posting. I’m taking a chance here so go easy on me. I know it is not show quality but I didn’t want to lay down the 2K for a new bumper and I wanted to see if I could make this passable. I have a U.S. spec bumper but the right turn signal had lots of corrosion due to a leak of sorts. This caused the bubbling seen in the “before” picture. It was causing the rubber to deform and sag by over ½” and generally, looked pretty bad. The bumper is overmolded rubber on steel. The steel frame is hollow (I had to drill it). I don’t think that glue of any type will help because the material wants to deform and would be under tension after gluing it and nothing will stick to it very well. Anyway, the bumper was removed and the lights too. It was then hung up where I took a rubber mallet and beat on it to get all the loose corrosion out (This took a while – making sure not to cause damage – that rubber is pretty tough). Naval Jelly was injected onto the exposed frame to remove the rest. The Naval Jelly was rinsed out and a rust protector was sprayed on the bare metal. This gets all the loose pieces that are causing the rubber to deform, out of the way. The bumper was then secured and strips of duct tape were used to secure the rubber into position. 5 holes were drilled from the rear, through the steel, to the front. 5 rustproof long (3”) deck screws were put into the rear of the bumper. The screws penetrated through the steel (providing the support) and then into the front rubber lip just below the light (this is the part that was sagging) but not enough to poke through (real important here). When the clamps were removed, the rubber no longer sagged. Basically, the lower lip was now “hanging” (quite securely) from the five screws retained in the steel. The light and bumper were reinstalled. From a few feet, it is hardly noticeable and worlds better than it was. This may not work for everyone, but it worked o.k. in this case. I am sorry that I don't have a broader shot of the before and after but it really did make a nice difference.

-Rjay
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No offense, but that's just not true. Without debating the idea of saving the original bumper shocks, it only takes about 5 minutes to drill the two front shocks and use a rubber mallet to push in the bumper. No way you are going to do a remove-and-replace more easily or more quickly than that, and it's zero cost.

 

The MAcarbon solution looks very good!

 

I agree! It took me longer to set up the drill and pound the bumpers in than to actually drill them. Also not true is that the 25 year old shocks wouldn't provide much protection. All four of mine were still very full of gas!

Sorry to the US bumper fan contingency but I like the look with it pushed in. Like someone said, beauty is in the eye of the beerholder....uh I mean beholder.

 

'79 308GTB fully Standard Specification
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thanks!
do you know his email, web site or maybe his phone??

 

Finally managed to take some photos. These are how the direct replacement from US to replica Euro bumpers from Butch Hooper look on my car. Cost was $1200 and a massive weight saving. I am planning to also swop out the front spoiler to a Euro one very soon and will post photo when I do.
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VERY NICE! The bumpers look just like the ones on my standard spec. '79 gtb (see photo earlier in this thread). I love the blue color.

 

Jtranfield,

Where did you get the Euro style lower rear valance? Do you have any heat issues on the rear bumper?

 

Attached are photos of my 79 308 GTB with Euro Bumpers from Ferrari UK. Front was mounted with brackets I fabricated to replace the shocks. Grill is also from them. Photos were taken before the car was repainted this summer.
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No heat issues at all and I have a Tubi exhaust.

I think its the original 1977 rear valance on this US spec car. Didn't they change in 78?

 

Sorry, I am not that familiar with the 77 308. Does your valance just go across under the bumper or does it go up behind it?

 

yes, that is the correct rear valance for a 77 .... me thinks i need a euro front bumper....
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Hey Guys,

I figured i bring this thread up again.

I read all 3 pages but it seems it drifted away from the subject.

Can the bumper be repainted to give it that fresh shiny look and if yes what color do you think it is.

Or do i put good ol Armor all on it?

The bumber is in good shape, smooth, no rust or bubbles.

Thanks