Rob's 2021 Timing Belt Adventure

I have not done a 308 in a while but on many you cannot slide the belt pasy damper. So just rattlegun off the nut and slide back damper and put belt on.

The one turn is not an issue. I always keep turning until all 5 marks come back. I always want to verify reference points. I still set tension by hand so cannot help you there.

 

The last time I did a belt swap I think it took 16 revolutions to get all the marks lined up again, if I remember correctly.
That's a lot of work for an old guy!!!!!

 

Rob, you are kinda right. One turn gets you TDC but on a different engine stroke. It does allow the cam loading to be different and belt tension is different as regards to the pulley next to the tensioner. Blah Blah Blah. Two turns gets all the marks lines up and again is TDC.
I usually turn the crank a few times and recheck the belt tension. For me it is usually just a feel thing. I do have an electronic tension tester and I have used it and I am trying to log the results and have an idea of what it needs to be. Something for the next Gen to have when I move on maybe. Or maybe I'll just take it to the grave with me, who knows, I have to find some younguns that want to know first.

 

Well that sux! Recheck your wiring to the alt. Also starter relay?

 

I always rebuild the alternator as it's Bosch but not a common number. I have no idea what special about it but of course, it is!!

 

Sorry...late with that comment...

Has your battery lost charge while you worked?

Not much required to rattle the fuel pump but going out when loaded would mean a dead battery, to me.

 

All the lights are SUPPOSED to go out when you are starting your car. It sends all the juice to the starter. If you starter is not spinning at all, start there.

Measure the battery voltage to see if it's good.

Put a volt meter (On V dc mode) red probe to the starter solenoid, black probe to chassis ground (any point on the body). Have your wife turn over the key to start (DAMN sure the gearbox is in NEUTRAL or she will kill you), and see if you get 10V or more at the solenoid. IF not, it's your ignition switch.

 

It could be the actual electrical switch on the back of the ignition lock. These tend to oxidize and the contacts can be pitted from arcing. I noticed that things look good in the on position, but when turned to the start position (all the way to the right) everything goes dead. Try going back and forth several times to "exercise" the contacts.

 

Sounds like battery or bad connection to the battery. Check the battery charge and terminals (if loose), clean?

 

Yep, I never use those. Had one break on me and no voltage.