RobzWorkz #3: 328 Basic Timing Belt Service

Did you try turning the unit sideways?

 

Yeah. I tried it all and was left with the options to pull the water pump, crankshaft pulley or undo the AC ines and pull it out from the top. I choose pull the lines and take it out from the top. I'll do that this weekend. I've wasted too much time and energy trying to swing it over the tank.

 

+1! With extreme prejudice! I've done it both ways and after doing it without the AC compressor in the way, I'll never do it any other way. Plus, it gives you an excuse to rebuild the compressor, buy a vacuum pump and gauges and do all your own AC work from now on. And be sure and check those AC hoses that run over the gas tank. The gas tank strap can chafe them and cause a leak.

 

Rob, chances are you know lots of people with R-12 cans stashed away that they'll never use. I've picked cans from people for free or for really cheap. Plus, you can take an online test and get your AC cert. and buy it brand new. There's also the option of using Duracool, which I think I'm going to start using once I've depleted my R-12 stock.

 

Cert. Testing:
http://www.epatest.com/

Duracool:
http://www.duracool.com/
A local Fchatter here in Huntsville, Mike Charness, has been using Duracool with great results (according to a conversation I had about it with his mechanic).

 

No Cam Seals?

 

No prob, Rob. Keep up the great "how to" posts. I'm still in awe of your body work after the truck incident.

 

Quick Question here... How do you rotate the belt system with the cam pullys locked? if they are locked would they not be able to turn?

or are you saying that the belt will "drag" over the pullys and the tensioner will apply the right tension? I'm very confused????????

 

Rob, are you going to degree in the cams per the manual as well? Or are you just doing a belt replacement and assuming the cams are still set correctly?

This seems to be the difference between doing a real belt service and just changing the belts. Degreeing the cams requires taking off the cam covers.

 

Nice work and oh how I miss working on my baby's so good on you!

 

First thought: Wow is your motor clean!

Second thought: Is that grease oozing out of the tensioner bearings?

I'd wipe those clean, though the pulley would likely fling it clear of the belts anyway. I guess that's why the inside of the timing covers get so grimy...

 

I'm not an expert, but it could a little grease oozing from when they got warmed up the first time. I would watch them very carefully and if it continues, change at the earliest possible date. I didn't go back through this thread but assume they are from Hill Engineering...?

 

They are SKF bearings and there is nothing to worry about.


If you do decide there is something wrong I will buy them.

 

There is no such thing as a bearing so completely sealed that no grease comes out and you don't want that to be the case. When a sealed, bearing is operated and the temp goes up the grease expands - it has to go somewhere or failure can result. For that reason, sealed bearings are not usually supplied "full" of grease.

There bearings can fail prematurely due to too much grease. I have a friend who was a foreman at a Dow-Corning plant that was having premature bearing failures on several of their machines. The bearings had removable seals on both sides and the factory called for them to be repacked every couple of months. So no one could understand what was happening since the bearings were "very well taken care of."

After consultation with the machinery and bearing supplier they dramatically REDUCED the frequency of re-lubing the bearings and got normal longevity from then on. They discovered that too much grease in the sealed bearings caused the grease to churn and, since there was noplace for the excess to go, it increased the grease temp to beyond the correct working temps for the grease...and there went the bearings.