RobzWorkz #8f: Improving the 328 Fuel System: CIS Rebuild

Good Morning FChatters.

Back to the work at hand.

(BTW, I approve of all the peer-review, and I get very encouraged when solutions/concerns/mistakes/ideas are presented because it reminds me you guys are listening.)

The rebuild kit I received from Geert Jan included all the washers and o-rings to rebuild the fuel pressure regulator. This is the regulator type for the "with Lambda" function, and has two springs inside. The rebuild kit had no replacement springs, so it is assumed that the pressure regulator worked appropriately before disassembly. If your regulator is fully shot, then ask Geert Jan if a full replacement can be purchased (recall, I'm still trying to avoid the "buy a new distributor" option).

There are two threaded areas on this assembly, both having a new washer: 1) the threads installing the regulator into the CIS distributor body, and; 2) the threads for the internal bolt. Put some Indian Head on these threads and associated washers when assembling/installing.

Clean all metal parts with (91%) rubbing alcohol, Q-tips and paper towels.

BTW, all internal parts on my distributor as a whole were generally clean, so my internal cleaning was mild. I have heard of some being clogged with deposits and gunk (implying recurring use of bad gas-ethanol as well, especially if moisture was present in the gas--bad fuel filter and other causes). I would request that someone who had experienced poor-quality internals chime in as to a modified cleaning process. I'm sure running SeaFoam through a tank or two might help prior prior to the work and would clean internals a bit, however, I'm referring to this stage of cleaning (I apologize for not saying in an earlier post, when cleaning the body was being discussed).

The pics below show the process.
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Previously, I said I reinstalled this fitting when I reinstalled the hose; I was mistaken.

This fitting a deserves special mention:
1) it has a small filter/strainer in it (clean it in both directions with carb cleaner spray);
2) it's explicitly identified in the WSM having a torque spec of 25.5 ft-lb (as shown un the "328 Tech" pdf vice the WSM, which, for me, didn't have English torque units); this fitting can actually be torqued with a socket (no crow's foot) if the hose is not installed.

Clean this fitting. If the filter is broken, seek a replacement (if NLA, as expected, the filter remains could be cut out...be sure of no metal slag...you could also install another fuel filter in this line anyway).

Use a new 12mm copper crush washer.

The pics show the fitting and filter; the fitting is installed so the filter is inside the body. Use Indian Head on the threads.

Also, reinstall the allen head bolt with a new crush washer (8mm?).
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Dispite all the controversy, reinstallation of the adjusters is necessary.

Replace the o-ring on each and install using the same #turns when removed. Install each cap over each adjuster with new washer from the kit. There's no need to apply Indian Head on the cap nor on the adjuster; the new adjuster o-ring keeps the seal and tighness; also, you may seek to do post-installation adjustments. Since I was painting, the caps will be held in place with the paint anyway.
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Clean remaining fittings (some like to send these off for replating; if so, watch out for plating slag remaining inside the fittings; some have complained that platers were not careful to prevent internal slag; if someone can show this, that would be appreciated; this is a serious issue for some with regard to the hard CIS fuel line sections).

Temporarily install the remaining fittings for the hoses, damper and frequency valve (Don't install the frequency valve or damper, just the fitting).

Acquire new copper crush washers for each: 8mm, 10mm and 12mm (count the #each used before ordering and double each number on the order so as to have on hand; triple or more is better if you feel the need to replace after testing). I got good quality ones on ebay from Brake Hoses Unlimited (information is on the pics).

All single banjo fittings require two (2) washers.

The large return banjo fitting (fuel return and frequency valve unload) requires three (3) washers.

Install loosely simply to keep track of fittings and washers and make a surface on which to apply tape for painting; no tightnes here whatsoever; torquing these fittings occurs upon final assembly with hoses in the car.

Tape up all fittings and the plunger access, paint with engine primer and top coat.

After paint dries, install final large o-ring on bottom of the body (pic is of an earlier disclosure).

The CIS distributor is now ready to install onto the air sensor or store until ready.

Cleaning and reinstallation of the frequency valve and damper could take place here (it wouldn't be fully mounted since the frequency valve mounts onto the air sensor and the return hose would need to be installed to tighten the frequency valve unloader line...so, it's really not installed anyway); however, since I preplaced the flex hose from frequency valve to the return on the distributor, I will defer its description until the thread describing hose rebuilding.
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