Hi, I'm having a problem with my rear drivers side. I noticed a grinding sound so pulled off the wheel and the brake pads. The rotor itself is rubbing against the caliper at the high points next to where the pad sits. The rotor is not centered in the caliper opening. The rubbing occurs on the inboard side. I did replace the pads not long ago but that shouldn't be an issue. Maintainence records show wheel bearing replacement about 4k miles ago. Before I took it apart I did check for slop in the bearings and could feel none. That side did have alot of brake dust on the wheels lately. Any ideas what would cause this? Possibly I just didn't notice until the pad wore enough to hit the caliper (which isn't much). I could shim the caliper or possibly something is getting loose inside the hub. Just seems odd the rotor would move inward instead of outward if things were loosening in there and no bearing play. Thanks! Update - I puuled the caliper and the rotor is actually rubbing against the caliper mounts cast into the hub. So shimming is out. Larry
Check you have the spacers on the inside of the calipers bolts. Item no 10 on diagram. http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=434&A=1&B=23673&S=
Thanks for the responses. There is caliper shims but you can't shim it enough because the rotor hits the caliper mounting bosses. I've taken the hub out and the spindle out. The bearings appear to be fine visually. The real problem appears to be in and out play of about 1/8 inch of the spindle when mounted in the hub. The bearings aren't moving. The spindle slides slightly in the bearings. The nut was incredibly tight so I don't think it was coming loose. The bearings appear to be located correctly as the sleeve inside is located somewhat tightly between the bearings. There is a spacer and a rubber seal between the flange and the outer bearing that don't seem to do much. Any ideas? Thanks. Larry
The rear brake discs come in 2 widths depending on the year of car - 25mm for early cars and 30mm for later cars, check your build no and cross reference to make sure you have correct discs for your car. I wonder if someone has fitted incorrect discs? Nb shoes come in 2 sizes to match as well
Rotors are the narrow ones. Which should be correct for the car as it uses the early style setup like the 328s. It appears to me that the stub axle is sliding in the bearings. Meaning the inside of the bearings is worn or the stub axle OD is worn. Seems really odd. Thanks, Larry
OK - I'm thinking I have two issues. The first is that the stub axle is sliding in the bearings. The second is that the bearings they used as a replacement were 209SZZ units which are 19mm wide. The SKF 62209-2RS1 bearings are 23mm wide. This is .157 inches which is about the amount of slop I have. So if the other bearing was installed, the unit couldn't slide as it would be tight against the spacer and the flange. Larry
These are really simple systems. You got a weird problem and I don't follow all the descriptions. Pics would help.
If you mean that if you grip the half shaft you can move the shaft along its horizontal axis inwards and outwards along its length this is normal as the suspension is a double wishbone setup which means the wheel travels vertically up and down instead of in an arc. To compensate the half shaft must travel in and out slightly. Are you absolutely sure you have spacers on inside of calipers (there is washers on outside near bolt head too iirc)? Also, the discs are held to the axle set up with 2 small pins/bolts which hold the disc in place when the wheel bolts are not in place. As mentioned get some pics up or better still a video showing problem. To me it sounds like something is not fitted properly.
Have a look at the pics on post 432 on thread below and note spacers on inside of calipers bolts plus the studs that secure disc 348 DIY "Restoration" - Page 44
I have it totally torn apart now so pics don't show much now. I do have the spacers and the bolts that hold the rotor on. The rotor actually hits the mounting bosses for the caliper. So it wouldn't matter how many shims were installed, it would still rub the mounts. It does this with the caliper removed as well. Its rubbing because the stub axle (not the half shaft / CV Shaft) can move inward about 1/8 to 3/16. I don't think it should be able to do this as the outer bearing is pressed on and should stop it. In my case I can easily rubber hammer the outer bearing on and off the stub axle. In addition the outer bearing is too narrow and does not sit against the spacer. If the bearing was the wider one, it couldn't move inward very much. It is a strange situation and hard to explain. Thanks, Larry
OK, I have the car back together and everything is working fine. What happened is that the stub axle slid inside the outer bearing. It would not have happened if the replacement bearings were the correct width. In most cases the thinner bearing would probably work as long as the stub axle to bearing fit is strong enough not to move. In my pics you can see the difference between the thin bearing (209SZZ) and the wider unit (62209-2RS1). This width is important. The inner bearing is pushed flush against the hub housing and the plate with seal is bolted on top of it. It can't move inward. The sleeve with the gear on it for the sensor is located inside the hub and the outer bearing has to be pushed up too it. This means the thinner outer bearing must be pushed inside the hub, not flush. Between the outer bearing and the flange is a spacer with a seal on it. If the thinner bearing is used, a 4mm slop exists in the area and the seal is really useless. Using the proper size bearing filles the gap. If the thinner bearing is used there is nothing but the press fit of the bearing to stop the stub axle from sliding 4mm inward. When that happens the rotor hits hits the caliper mounting bosses and bottoms out the caliper on the engine side. Using bearing 62209-2RS1 won't allow this to happen. The only reason to use the 209SZZ bearing is because its cheaper. But I found the 62209-2RS1 at Bearing Belt and Chain in Phoenix for $30.00 including tax and $5.00 express shipping from Texas. Thanks for the ideas! Larry Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excellent result! Do you know who fitted the wrong bearing/how long it has been like that? I onder if the other side is the same - might be worth checking/fixing before it becomes a problem...
The previous owner had both sides changed about 4k ago. The narrow bearing is a suggested replacement on a popular 348 website. I have the invoice for them in the maintainence records so I know both sides were done. I did inspect the opposite side and it has not slipped yet. It may never slip but I'm going to change the bearing anyway. Thanks, Larry
