Rough start/running/stalling issue. Tests to run to diagnose it?

Right now I'm struggling to keep the battery sufficiently charged to even run the tests I need to run.

The battery dipped below 12.2 when I checked yesterday. I attached the powerpack charger and left it overnight. It's really hard to attach charger cables to these terminals; they keep flying off. The terminals seems especially chewed up and there's very little clearance down there to maneuver. May look into replacing the battery terminals.

Sure enough, the cables popped off at some point last night and the battery read 12.2 again this AM. I reattached the charge pack and will check every hour or so to make sure the cables haven't popped off again.

As to the tests, I reviewed the OM and I didn't find fuses for the fuel pumps, just relays. If I missed something and if there are fuses I should check once I actually have sufficient frikken power, let me know.

ketel

 

This wasn't a BAT car but, yes, seems she's fighting me every step of the way.

 

Sure. What would you need for them?

 

So... the powerpack gave me enough juice to try to start the vehicle. After a rough start, she fired up and she's now idling in the driveway. I want to give it 10 minutes of idling to properly set the parameters. But of course, I am not confident to drive it since I still don't know what the issue is and am concerned it will stall again in the middle of an intersection a few blocks from my house like last time. That was fun...

Also, I can't figure out how to disconnect the MAF connections. I don't want to force it since everything there is plastic. Any trick to it? Some special secret release tab I am not finding? Again, don't want to force it or risk breaking it and having another $$ thing to now fix.

With the car now idling can we deduce anything? Can we assume fuel pumps and relays are no longer the culprit?

thanks

ketel

 

I'm fully aware of the perils of jump starting a Ferrari from my 9 years of 355 ownership. The battery is new and seems to be holding charge ok. When I use the powerpack I disconnect the vehicle's battery at the cutoff switch and then attached the clamps. I do not jump the battery and I don't even charge the battery when the battery is still connected to the vehicle (i.e. when the cutoff switch is in the run position.)

ketel

 

Guys,

How does one undo this connector?

ketel
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Update - so basically this day was a bit of a bust. I wasn't able to properly attach the fuel pressure gauge to the shrader valve. It just spun and never threaded on. The kit I bought had little instructions to help. It doesn't help that the valve is far back on the fuel rail and there's a rubber fuel hose blocking the way. So I was unable to check fuel pressure.

Next, I was unable to remove the MAF connector to see how the 360 ran without the MAFs. The connectors are plastic and given they spend their life in a hot engine bay, they get brittle and I was concerned if I forced them they'd snap. If I'd learned anything owning Ferraris, if you feel like you're forcing something you're doing it wrong.

But, on the bright side, the 360 did fire up and idle fairly well. So, what can we glean from this? Are the fuel pumps ok? Can we eliminate the fuel pumps as a possible culprit for the poor running/stalling last week? I think we can eliminate fuses and relays, yes?

What's left?

ketel

 

Basically, yes. I just let the vehicle idle for 15 minutes. I blipped the throttle a few times to see if I could recreate the prior problem where the vehicle wouldn't go above 1000-1500 but it revved nice and smoothly.

As to the other "tests" I'm at an impasse now. My fuel pressure kit will not fit onto the fuel pressure valve on the fuel rail. The shrader valve on the fuel rail is not the same shrader valve on the tires. The diameter is larger on the fuel rail valve. My fit fits fine on the tire valve but not the fuel rail valve. Is there a special adapter I need to purchase?

Also, I have not been able to disconnect the MAF sensor connector. Even with a mirror looking underneath the connector, it is not intuitive how one removes it. Is it a push tab? Is it a tab that requires a flat blade screwdriver to push in while pulling on the connector? Totally unclear to me. Don't want to break it.

ketel

 

Thanks but it's not budging.

ketel