RPM FACE COLOR CHANGES--the whole process--LOTS of pics

I had a try at correcting the needle position at rest today , only ended up making it worse . Now the needle has set itself to be in the 4 o`clock position when the ignition is switched on and slightly below zero once the engine starts ! I tried moving the needle clockwise so it reset to zero but it didn`t . I even left off the clear plastic cover so I could manually position the needle to zero with the ignition on , this worked so I reassembled everything again only to find that the needle jumped to its current position . With the ignition switched on and moving the needle by hand it feels as if the needle position is notchy and can only be slightly above zero or below by quite a bit .

I`m getting a bit sick of dismantling and reassembling everything and I think some of the screws are too !

Any help or advice ?

 

Hi WH:
Did you ever get your tach needle indexed properly?
Am about to start this project but fear of running I to this alignment to zero problem is holding me back. You certainly aren't the first one to have this problem over the course of several years this post has been active. I've never really read a bullet prof method of prevent misalignment during reassembly.
Would much appreciate any news.
DM

 

That is very strange. When I did mine the needle was just above zero so I removed the whole cluster and very carefully removed the needle without rotating it and placed it back on at zero. Before reinstalling the cluster I plugged in the connectors and turned on the ignition to make sure it was at zero and it was. Do not turn on the ignition with the connectors unplugged.
Alan

 

Working on lowering my steering column now, bottom screws are removed and the shroud is loose however it looks like those plastic tab is not going to clear the ignition on the right. I don't want to break the cover. Any tips?
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Yes they will. I found that you don't just try and pull it down -- the logical thing to do, but rotate it )I forget which way) and it will come out. DO NOT force it as those tabs will break off.
Alan

 

Bill, just wanted to say thanx for posting the instructions / pics. Really helped with my 360's instrument cluster (backlight just went out).

James

 

Hi, Don't know if anyone can help me.
I am part way through an interior refurb and trying to get the instrument surround (cluster) out to replace the silver dash cover etc.
However though I have tried and tried cannot seem to be able to remove the lower steering cowl, it is loose and bolts are out but I can't pull it out.
More importantly I have located the yellow marked 8mm bolt but even though I have loosened it the steering will not drop to allow removal of the cluster.
Help??

 

Loosen the other bolt behind it. Do not take it out, just loosen it. This should let it drop another inch or so to get the display out. You have 4 plugs in back that need to be disconnected .
If I can do this anyone can.

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Do you need to disconnect the batteri prior to this mod?

 

yes

 

Just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. I just completed changing the rev counter to yellow and replacing the silver dash cover with a carbon one.
I wanted to add my two-pennyworth.
First it is not an easy job and you need mini-hands to remove and replace screws and be a contortionist to get under the wheel and into the footwell.
Second, the bottom steering shroud must be removed, this is essential.
Third, the front bolt marked with yellow paint MUST be completely removed in order that the steering drops sufficiently to allow the dial cluster to be removed (out the right of the steering).
Fourth, be very careful with replacing the rev counter needle. My first attempt resulted in the needle NOT moving at all when the engine was revved. It took three attempts and I tested it before refitting. Trial and error in my view!
Finally, getting the yellow marked bolt back with washer and 2 other parts is a real task. I used a magnet to place it there at first but later found that my hand is just small enough to put it in place.
Good luck to all who attempt it.
But it does look great. Not even going there on the illumination problem.

 

Did everyone disconnect the battery? Is it absolutely essential? Do you have to turn the master power switch off?

 

If you don't disconnect the battery and remove the cluster wire the airbag light will come on when you fire the car back up and you will need to have your tech reset it with an SD2.

 

Great thanks. All done! And I managed to remove the shroud around the steering column without undoing the bolt on the column. !!

 

Gordon, thanks much! I'm getting ready to replace the instrument cluster with CF. your posts are very helpful/brilliant. Cheers - Al


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Finished mine a few days ago with red needles and everything worked out great. Except, started up with no lights and system okay but oil pressure gauge is not working. Damn!

 

Do you have the Red Tach For sale?
Do Where can I get one ?
thanks!

 

Just finished The yellow Ricambi tach face install. Thanks all for the awesome pics and clear instruction. Can't say it was easy but TOTALLY worth it!!! Looks so much better! Thanks you so much Fchat people!

On a side note regarding sticky plastic, I figured while I had the clamshell pieces that cover the steering column apart I Might want to try a few things to get rid of the sticky stuff on both top and bottom . Brought them inside and used dish soap and scrubbed hard with a plastic bristle brush. ... It LOOKS JUST LIKE NEW AGAIN!!!!

 

Post up a pic of you install. Did the ricambi face have the horse or no horse? Can you post a day and night pic of the illumination? I am about ready to order one as well but would like a little clarification as to what is currently being shipped out by them (ricambi.)

 

I replaced mine back in June of this year. Replaced both the faces and the backlighting from ebay user uplock. Very satisfied with the color, etc. I did remove the white on the needles and repainted them with flour. orange/red but have not changed the LED's from green to red. To keep the needles visible, I have to keep the backlighting high (20+). Only thing that may be a deal breaker for some is the kit that I got only had MPH, no KM. Also of note, prior to this change, speedometer was off by the by varying amounts, but usually 10 mph overall. Now, it's only off by about 3-5 mph from about 10 up to 100+ At 80, it is dead on with my GPS. I do have 295/35/18's out back instead of the stock size though.
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Many thanks to the original poster and all other contributors in making this tutorial.

I did this today to change my speedo from KMH to MPH on my 360 that I have owned from new first in Japan and recently brought to the UK. Start to finish in less than an hour.

A couple of things.

I didn't disconnect the battery and I didn't get any airbag warning lights.

Essential to fully remove the 8mm bolt marked in yellow not just loosen it so the steering column drops enough to get the instrument binnacle out.

My speedo came from Lockwood in the UK and fit and finish are spot on.

 

Anyone know a current supplier for this exact kit? Also, what did you do to get the silver tunnel effect around the tach?
Thanks

 

I completed this on Saturday but when I took it on a test drive, the Tach seemed very sticky and then stayed on the 3, no matter how fast I went. Then when I parked it in the garage, the needle stopped on the right of the zero, on the "Engine OK" screen. Anyone have any insight on this issue, and/or how to fix it???

 

The needle is stuck on wrong and maybe too tight. You need t remove it and set it to the correct position. Be sure not to push it on too far down; if it drags it will stick. It is discussed in this thread somewhere.

 

Thanks for telling me to look through the whole thread, I think I fixed it!


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