Running Brake Booster / Heater Lines - A method

So if you are like me and were unlucky enough to have the old hose break while trying to run your new lines... I figured I would show in pictures exactly how I was able to run it by myself by using steel wire.

So first... you basically you need to run some wire straight through.. from the back to the front.

There is a small crack/opening right below the "turn" of the "tunnel" that will feed directly down the tunnel... without having to make any turns.

Picture 1

You may need to remove the pad for the tank to see the crack properly... I did... but if you know it's there it's not really necessary.

Once you have your line run and just use wire... do NOT use fish tape... it WILL get caught on the various... THINGS? In the tunnel... ask me how I know. Just use steel wire.

Then you'll want to drill a hole in your hose and pass your wire through it and secure it by twisting nice and tight so it doesn't come loose.

Picture 2

Next pull the wire from the back of the car feeding the hose from the front of the car.

Don't pull hard... it "should" come fairly easily until it hits the turn. You'll know because it will literally stop and you won't be able to pull it easily anymore.

When that happens you will need to "fish" the end of your wire (the end that you are pulling) up into the lower crack and up over the turn.

Picture 3

Now once you have the wire in the turn you will pull UP on the wire pulling the hose UP into that turn.

Picture 4

If you already have one line run you will need to pull both the wire and the hose that's already installed in unison so that the second hose can come UP.

Picture 5

And you will now FINALLY have the hoses run... and you should probably go drink some alcohol because you deserve it.

Picture 6

The turn is where it's a complete nightmare... THAT is where all of the difficulty in this job comes from. If the whole thing was a straight shot it would be a super simple job.

By pulling straight from the back all the way to the turn, your new hose is in the correct position to go UP into that turn.

If you can run the lines by attaching to the old lines and pulling them through that is the "easiest" method (it's not easy mind you but... there's less work involved if you get lucky enough to be able to pull them that way.

Otherwise if you're lucky like me (not) and one of the hoses breaks...you WILL have to remove the driver's gas tank.

It's a very large pain in the ass, but it must be done because of the way those hoses are routed.

On the passenger side, the hoses go straight up and out from the tunnel, on the driver's they go up... and then make a turn around another "truss" and then go over the gas tank. If you don't have an old hose to pull for the new one there is absolutely no way you will be able to do this job without removing the tank... unless of course you're just incredibly lucky and can get the hose to come up where you need it.

At first I tried just loosening the tank and moving it back to get some clearance... no way was it working.

To remove the tank you don't have to remove the transfer case (I did and it's not a trivial thing... I wouldn't recommend it) But you may need to unbolt a few nuts on the forward side and POSSIBLY remove the studs so that the thank will clear. I did both and it cleared fine... but you might be able to leave it alone and if you CAN I would.

If you remove the transfer case... be VERY careful. It uses unsealed needle bearings and they like to fall into spots they shouldn't. You will need to re-grease those bearings just to keep them in place for reinstall.

If you are unlucky enough to have the center gear (or any other gear) come out (yes I was unlucky enough) you will need to retain some gear oil so to aid in the re-install of that gear. Do NOT try to force the gear... do NOT try to put the gear on with the case... it's hard enough to get it in just the right spot holding the gear alone.

You WILL need to remove basically the upper and lower A-Arms, Caliper, and brake rotor.

You might be able to get away with just the caliper and rotor and then "swing" the arms away but I had to replace bushings anyway so I removed them.

Once all of that is out of the way you should be able to slide the tank back and get to it.

If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help... I've now done both sides, both AC lines and booster/heater line so I'm pretty well versed
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I didn't even know there was an access panel... oh well too late now I guess LOL I have an '82 as well.