Rust and money (308) | FerrariChat

Rust and money (308)

Discussion in '308/328' started by dasMafia, Jun 30, 2006.

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  1. dasMafia

    dasMafia Formula Junior

    Jun 9, 2004
    422
    Lincoln, Nebraska
    I live in the sticks, and nothing un-galvanized survives out here, and as long as its not snowing, I'll likely be driving the most-fun car I have.

    obviously, a fiberglass car would be ok... and I looooooove the 4-carb setup.

    the other option is a later galvanized car...

    simple question: which one is easier to buy and own/run...

    while I do love the 328... for that price bump, I'll go all the way to the 348, thanks.
     
  2. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Feb 24, 2006
    15,783
    Cerritos, CA.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Concidering where you live, I choose fiberglass
     
  3. dasMafia

    dasMafia Formula Junior

    Jun 9, 2004
    422
    Lincoln, Nebraska
    advise appreciated!
     
  4. 350HPMondial

    350HPMondial F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 1, 2002
    5,311
    18 mi from the surf,, close to Pismo, CA
    Full Name:
    Edwardo
    I do believe, the 328 and the 348 chassis are galvanized...
     
  5. Bullfighter

    Bullfighter Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jan 26, 2005
    22,578
    Gates Mills, Ohio
    Full Name:
    Jon
    Ferrari started galvanizing with the 1984 production cars, at least for the 308 series. All 328s and 348s had this protection on key steel body panels.

    The steel frame on a glass 308 may still be susceptible to rust. Fibreglass 308s are scarce (700+ made) and the carbs are fussier than the later injected cars. If you're out in the sticks, some mechanical skill might come in handy. The QVs are usually considered the most reliable of the run, but they give up some of the sound and the fury of the carbs.

    Regarding 328 or 348, there's a reason why they are priced the same. Or maybe a few reasons. In fact they're extremely different cars, and you should make sure you want a 348 for what is, and not because it's newer (they're all old now) or faster (newer performance cars will eat a 328 or 348 for lunch). There are at least a couple of us on this board who had the budget for much newer cars and ended up going back to the 328 for various reasons -- lack of engine computers, traditional Ferrari tubular frame design, ease of servicing, etc. It does have the ergonomics of an old car, though - the 348 is less snug inside. I guess the best advice is to make sure you like driving it...

    That said, I think all these cars tend to live longer and run better when they're dry. My mechanic advised me to wash mine once a month, with a light mist of water.
     
  6. rickyx

    rickyx Karting

    May 9, 2006
    117
    My mechanic advised me to wash mine once a month, with a light mist of water.[/QUOTE]

    Cleaning your car on hot day, must be done at the speed of light!
     
  7. hardtop

    hardtop F1 World Champ

    Jan 31, 2002
    11,293
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Dave
    Bullfighter is right, serious rustproofing began in 1984. Glass cars still have steel rockers, chassis, etc and can rust there. A nice glass car is hard to come by and will cost as much as a nice 328 or 348, but they are really cool, especially the Euro model with a dry sump motor.

    By far the easiest to live with maintenance and repair wise is the 328, at least among the cars made before the 360. I went from a 328 to a 348 back to a 328 and I could have bought most any modern model. I just like them. A 10 month old 430 now resides in the garage with the 328.

    Dave
     
  8. dasMafia

    dasMafia Formula Junior

    Jun 9, 2004
    422
    Lincoln, Nebraska
    thanks for the information guys... the carbs actually don't scare me... assuming none of the body's have been warped, I'm pretty confident I can make them run. (and I have a client that is a 70-yr-old mechanic... if I can't do it, I KNOW he can).

    I live "in town" (300K people), but they salt AND gravel the roads in winter, and it rains often enough.

    has anyone ever converted a late galvanized car to a 4-carb setup? (don't shoot me, please...)
     
  9. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
    5,379
    NWA
    Full Name:
    Paul
    Galvanized or not, I would never drive a Ferrari in salt. Cars, any car ever made, will rust or corrode. The exhaust, the very engine itself, it rusts and corrodes on its own without ever being exposed to salt. Throw salt on it and its life expectancy will be calculated in months or years instead of decades. While a fiberglass outer body shell, or a galvanized steel one may not rust, or rust very fast, the rest of the car will. Bolts, cables, frame sections, wiring and connections, the radiator, everything. The salt spray sifts into every nook and cranny, places the most elaborate car wash will never clean. I have worked on cars my entire life in Minnesota, and seriously, cars from southern states that have never seen salt are always at a premium. Cars I have seen that were never exposed, even 30 years old, are light years better. Also a lot easier to work on because bolts and nuts actually loosen instead of rounding off or snapping.
     
  10. dasMafia

    dasMafia Formula Junior

    Jun 9, 2004
    422
    Lincoln, Nebraska
    I should have been a hair more clear... the car will not be driven on the salted roads... but there is some residue, no matter the season...

    I was talking to a restorer today and he mentioned that a lot of guys pull the mechanicals out of cars and apply spray-on bedliner to the undersides...

    he's never seen it done on a ferrari, but said that for a driver it was a "can't beat" solution... relatively light, sheds dirt (unlike traditional "undercoating) and is hard as a rock, and won't chip off...

    interesting idea for anyone worrying about body-integrity on an older "driver"
     

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