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rust prevention

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rjdavatar, Nov 17, 2003.

  1. rjdavatar

    rjdavatar Rookie

    Nov 17, 2003
    36
    Zurich, Switzerland
    I have an 85 308QV. I would like to inspect the doors, sills, and channels for
    possible rust, treating with tectyl ML (for example).
    Has anyone been through this procedure, and could provide some suggestions
    for dismantling, etc? Any other thoughts on where to look for and prevent corrosion?
     
  2. spike308

    spike308 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 8, 2003
    3,856
    Austin TX!
    Full Name:
    Mike Z
    I unfortunately found cancer on my 84QV (recent purchase). It is in the area behind the passenger window, in the louvered (sp??) area at the bottom. After many baths, I have realized this is where water pools more than any other area of the car. After washing, open both sides, and watch it pool! I always leave them open overnight after washing, leaving a dry towel in there.
     
  3. rjdavatar

    rjdavatar Rookie

    Nov 17, 2003
    36
    Zurich, Switzerland
    I recently found a spot exactly there, too. And that is why would like to do a comprehensive search now....
     
  4. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,952
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    3x8 common rust areas:

    - Seam where the rocker panel joins the body, especially where the seam intersects the front & rear wheel wells. This is the most common offender.BTW, You can't see the rust because the body overhangs the seam. You have to lie down beside the car & look up at the seam, or else have the car on a lift.

    - Interior of door below the mirror. (The rubber seal for the door windows is routed over the small post at the front of the windows. This leaves about a 1/8" triangular gap that lets water drip in.) By the time a 1/8" rust blister appears in the exterior paint, there's a silver dollar sized circle of body cancer on the inside of the door. Really have to pull the door interior panel to check for this, & may have to pick at the insulating undercoating sprayed on the door skin.

    - Door bottom seam where the door skin bends over the door frame. Again, by the time you see external rust blisters there's major rust in the interior seam. Pull the door panel as above.

    - Engine cover - Underside of the lip that overhangs the taillights.

    - Top of the square shaped waistline recess by the tail lights & also where it joins the rear wheel well.

    - Top of the square shaped waistline recess between the front wheel well & the edge of the door opening.

    - All wheel well Bottom corners.

    - Screw holes for the screws that mount the AL plates at the bottom of the door openings

    - Emblem mounting holes (under the emblems where you can't see them of course.)

    - The bottom of the area behind the window louvers & around the gas filler hole.

    - Brake disc dust/splash shields

    BTW, I don't think I've ever seen Tectyl ML for sale here in the states.

    I prefer POR15 as it completely passivates & seals rust with a coating that is impervious to both oxygen & moisture. See:
    www.por15.com


    Think this covers all the ones I've seen.
     
  5. rjdavatar

    rjdavatar Rookie

    Nov 17, 2003
    36
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Thanks for your useful list Verell.

    (For the record, on my european qv, the aluminium door plates have no obvious
    screws. It appears that they may be bonded down with silicone sealant, or the like.)
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,952
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Interesting, maybe they made the change when they switched the bodys to zincrometal. I've got an Euro '82 308 GTS QV with several screws/plate.
     
  7. pcelenta

    pcelenta Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    216
    I have resorted to replacing the lower door skins with fibreglass replicas...definately solves the problem...but a killer for originality.

    what do you guys think of the "rustbusters" system advertised in hemmings motor news? sandblasting and then spray welding pure zinc. Anyone try it yet? looks kinda neat.
     
  8. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,952
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Can anyone detectably tell the fibreglass skins from the metal door skins?
    Especially if the door's interior is recoated with sound proofing?

    Of course the magnet test would be a giveaway...
     
  9. pma1010

    pma1010 F1 Rookie

    Jul 21, 2002
    2,557
    Chicago
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Verell
    Who sells them?
    Philip
     
  10. bill308

    bill308 Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    May 13, 2001
    1,048
    Windsor, CT
    Full Name:
    Bill Sebestyen
  11. pcelenta

    pcelenta Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    216
    the glass skins are thicker that the steel and do not have the flanged lip that wraps around the door frame. You must cut away the old rusty skin and then bond the fibreglass skin to the frame....on the last one I did I just replaced the lower skin with glass (from the body line down)...it was a bit easier. you can't tell from the outside that they are glass...only the seam on the inside gives it away...

    Philip, I do have an extra pair if you are interested...e-mail me privately if yo like.
     

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