S/S braided brake lines

I look forward to some responses, I have a set I bought some years ago but did not install them. Read stories about them failing, perhaps from people kinking them while a brake job was being done, etc. and got spooked. Good OEM style rubber hoses last 15 years or more without worries, seems like a solution looking for a problem. I am also not aware of any OE vehicle that has the braided lines, which also makes me wonder why not.

 

I replaced my original lines with HEL lines when I rebuilt my suspension. The originals looked ok after I get them off so maybe replacement was unnecessary. Then I flushed the system, replaced the brake fluid and bled as normal.

The hardest issue on a 308 is access which can be tricky at the front. Some photos etc here:

http://308restoration.com/2016/10/front-brake-lines/

Regards
David


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As I recently told some folks on another board, the cool look of stainless is just that, a cool look. You can purchase the same hose, that is with stainless inside and a black rubber outside. Will look more original and does add another layer of abrasion/impact resistance.

 

Indeed, I fitted black stainless hoses to avoid the stainless look.

 

The brake hoses used by Ferrari during that period were very high quality and the vast majority of cars of that age period I service, including both of mine still have the original hoses. Not true of the hose used by Ferrari from about the 355/456/550 time and forward where every part and vendor was selected by the accounting department and not the engineering department.

 

I fitted new s/s hoses to mine the first year I got my 328, as concerned with them being old and a safety issue for me.
The fronts were in good condition but the rears were in a very bad state.
It was just piece of mind for myself, the old pipe fittings into rears calipers were a pain to get off, needed a little heat to remove them.

 

I've put the Goodridge lines on both of my 308s. No complaints, but also don't expect it to transform the car unless you have a failed brake line already or some other problem new lines will fix.

 

Replaced my original brake lines about 8 years ago. My 328 had begun pulling to the right when braking. New SS braided brake lines ended the problem.

 

This cavalier response to critical wear items should be ignored.
Regardless of how high quality the OEM parts were when new you should replace your rubber brake lines. These parts are now between 30-45 years old. Don't risk your safety or that of others on a relatively inexpensive wear item. The rubber tires and timing belts that came with your car were likely high quality as well and you would not still use those. Rubber deteriorates with age and the rubber brake lines usually degrades from inside out so a visual inspection is not sufficient.

 

I put a set of Goodrich lines on my car in 2005. Its probably about time to think about changing them again I guess. They have been on there nearly as long as the original hoses were,

I seem to remember that the original set they sent me did not fit at the rear of my ABS 328 - they had to make up some longer lines for me.

 

Brian, was it straight forward? Did you need to remove the calipers?


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I certainly did remove the calipers, it was part of a bigger project. Did I need to? Probably not just to replace the lines. But it's two bolts to remove a caliper, so no big deal if it's needed.

 

Removal of the calipers is not required. Make sure you don’t twist the lines when you reinstall the new parts.

 

Any product that you will advise to put on the threads?


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Use a microskosh of antiseize and the next person to take them apart (who may be you) will be grateful.

 

i did this changeout in 2008. the hoses were marginal, so i'm glad i changed.

interestingly was the special tools i devised to complete the process. the mounting nut (behind the suspension anchor point)
was particulally challenging as i recall.

local NAPA had no crow's foot to secure the brakeline bulkhead fitting behind the front suspension piece. i took an ordinary
crescent wrench and used it to back-up the bulkhead nut. that was too thick, so i fab'd a flat spanner to hold the
bulkhead nut out of aluminum flat stock.

after i got the hang of it, the rest were easy.

but....... as mr.fastradio says, "working on ferraris requires some skill, but more patience than anything!"

truer words could not have been spoken.....

 

I have made almost a dozen special purpose F-Car wrenches and other tools for this and that. Some fabbed from scratch, others modified open end wrenches, special sockets, bent, thinned, welded, whatever was necessary.

Oh, yeah, i put SS braided brakes lines on late last year when the calipers were rebuilt, new rotors and rebuilt steering rack was installed.

Doug

 

So, can you explain how do I remove/ change the flexible lines? I’m currently doing bushings, so all is out of the way. By what I’m understanding you will need to unscrew the hose by unscrewing the nut on the chassis? ....or by holding it? Picture below....if you can tell me what do I turn and what do I hold, I would appreciate. Thanks

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Unscrew the smaller 2 nut fittings, by holding on to the larger nut. Use flare (sometimes called "line") wrenches.

 

+1.

It is important to use a flare wrench because accidentally rounding the flats on that smaller fitting has nasty consequences. The metal brake line must be replaced since the smaller fitting (the "flare nut" I believe its called) cannot be removed without cutting the metal line.

That joint may be on extremely tightly so be careful.

 

AeroKroil or equivalent is your friend. If the nut is seriously recalcitrant, let it sit overnight after you’ve spritzed it.

Even with high-quality flare wrenches (and the ones you’ll find at the FLAPS are not that) you may want to clamp a small visegrips around the outside of the wrench head to keep it from flexing, opening up and slipping.

Once you get the thing loose, you will truly understand why a tiny dab of antiseize on reassembly is a good idea.

 

I'm a Sili Kroil fan myself.

 

My car uses the spring clip system instead of the “nut” system to hold the union to the chassis and to the caliper support. The new flexible lines they came with the “nut”....question is, should I just put the nut aside and use the same fitting (spring clip) that are on the car or install the “nut” instead? Pictures below. First is the “clip system” ....second is the hose ....third is the nut system Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login


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