Fantastic restoration Peter. Congratulations. Regards, Alvaro
Peter, Rob told me I had to come to the thread and see how you made the hammer. He was right. Outstanding and, as Rob mentioned, a nice way to remember your dad. Looks like the car is virtually done (love the colour by the way). I've checked in to this thread from time to time and have been repeatedly amazed by the ingenious solutions you've come up with and the skills you have shown throughout the restoration. The quality of work and attention to detail shows everywhere. Congratulations and drive her in good health. Best Regards, Paul
Thank you very much for the kind words gentlemen. It is always a pleasure to make and present these low cost and, to some extent, labor extensive hobby projects. By the way, I forgot to mention that Rob again made a delivery to one of my projects. This time I used his jack arm rubber pad in a slightly modified version for my 206 style jack. Again a first class product. Regards Peter
Finally managed to land a car insurance deal with my insurance company. One of the many mandatory terms was the need for installation of a 2 kg fire extinguisher in the drivers cabin. There are not much room in the cabin for a discrete installation, but I found just space enough behind the seats. I fabricated a support bracket in 2 mm steel for installation onto the two existing seat rail bolts. The bracket will be treated with black zinc. Happy weekend Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks great Peter! Great Idea, regardless of insurance or not... Will the seat move all the way back? Regards, Alberto
Great hammer Peter, When a child I used to make tin soldiers also, lead was in all paint used too. Poisoned? Yes. No seatbelts either Had not seen the hammer, my 'early warning system' to the threads I am subscribed, does not, so, Congrats, on another piece of great Dinoland ingenuity. The only other so creative bunch is the Alfa Montreal site, there is even a Montreal Bible along Matthias's line, but more inclined to fixes, and of course a bit of history. Inexpensive, and a great book to have if you are a DIY. By the way what is 2K Yellow, how would you equate it in the USA? Regards, Alberto
Thanks for the Alfa hint Alberto! The Seat goes all the way back and can also be fully tilted leaving 1 mm clearance at the most. As mentioned 2K is a "catalyzed" paint = 2 components automotive paint. Not really the correct paint to use on jack and hammer since the quality is much to good. Best option would be a cheap yellow spray rattle can on bare steel ensuring the right patina within a couple of month. I toned the paint color according to the wheel chock and it turned out very greenish. Regards Peter
Got it. 2K we have that here and the rattle cans also. Lead, even too much available. Montreal books. Great stuff. Used to be a lot less expensive, still highly recommended. Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login
I can see that Matthias is lacking a bit behind when it comes to front page presentation....You will have to read through 37 pages in his compendium before it gets really interesting...-
A long time ago, Bruce Taylor, the symbolic father of the Montreal movement, created a fantastic webite that now has been absorbed by 'alfabb' . He is a delightful fellow, works at CERN, knows Montreal like Matthias knows Dino, and was adamant about having women on his book covers with the car. Next book, Matthias promised me he will have a lovely Fraulein on the cover, but not on one of his cars Women and cars, please note the order. What a combination and connection... Regards, Alberto
Hello Gents, Anyone that knows how much torque such a nut takes to make up safely? I applied 350 Nm preliminary and drove my first 80 Km in cold and rainy weather to get the car technical inspected by the authorities. By the way the heating system worked like a charm and the car passed inspection with no issues and is now ready for period correct plates....- Best regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
kudos to you for driving in cold and rainy weather after such a great restoration ! obviously the car did not melt (oldie but goodie, I know
The car is restored to be driven and I will consider it a privilege to wear it down again. It is very well rust protected, so hopefully it will withstand the challenging Nordic conditions with lots of rain and occasionally salt on the roads.
Proz say it's best to use a copper hammer and hammer the nut strongly until it doesn't move any more. This should be the proper torque Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Peter, this question was discussed here few years ago http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/139918913-post54.html ...so maybe 350 Nm is a bit to less!? ;o) Best regards Götz
Thanks for the heads up on wheel spinner torque Götz. I have made up the wheels to 500 Nm inspired by your input and noticed that the spinners stopped turning at around 400 Nm, so hopefully the wheels stay put on the car. I know you are supposed to hammer them tight, but I am not cool enough yet to start destroying my new lead hammer and potentially the chrome on the nuts. I guess I'm forced to use the hammer when I get my first puncture, so be it. I spent a couple of hours today installing new fresh door side fittings including the plastic receptacles. Everything fitted perfectly so I can really recommend this exercise. The old fittings was brittle either due to corrosion or after electro galvanizing (Spring steel don't like this process) and I had several broken and loose fittings. Also took the opportunity to paint the inside of the door cards to make them more resistant to water. Regards Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Time for an update on the tool front; finally finished work on both tool bags. I think they turned out nicely even though this kind of work is far from my competence field. I sourced the canvas and fittings myself and produced drawings based on scaled pictures from FC and the web, cut the canvas and had a local tailor make the sewing. Biggest challenge was to get the tailor to understand that the sewing should be a bit rough. Also finished all the tools except for the spark plug wrench, which is out for chroming. Best Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What a piece of kit! Love it, mine is a mess... Are the backside of the rivets in the bags slit like a a star, or just plain round? Older V-12 kits had the split rivet. On the spinner torque, I have seen 250 ft/lb on them, really nifty too how the guys at the shop did it, with a torque wrench and a tool that hooks up on the spinner, and has a socket fitting at the end. See below. On the other hand at Goodwood, where half the field has spinners, they are all virtuosos of the hammer. But nowadays, I guess most is done via a 'flatbed', but then the AAA tow guy has never changed a spinnered wheel? I would not want to learn on a Dino Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks both. Wonderful wheel spinner tool you have there Alberto. Mine is a litte more refined and looks like something for a space shuttle. The back side of the rivets is just round as seen on this picture. Best Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
