save it or put it on the cheap 308 thread?

Get a second oppinion. Or just store the car and appreciate her beauty. JJ

 

The problem is that you're already upside down, because with that diagnosis the car isn't a 25K car anymore.

Have you been happy with the performance of the car before now?

I would think a second opinion is in order.

 

Are you sure he's right? If it's running the same as it has for three years why not just drive it 'till it goes pop? I'm not saying this is true in your case but i've suspected alot of made up problems with these cars by mechanics that have small shops and need to get big dollars from the few cars they get ahold of. It's a botique business model..low volume high dollar per unit.

 

I will second or third the second opinion theory. To many shops like to keep these cars around to collect dust so they can show everyone who comes in that they fix Ferrari's. The cars never get fixed properly, and more crap to keep you buying parts gets added up so they can justify keeping it around. I am not accusing your guy of this in your case, just getting you, or anyone else in a simular mess reading this to open your eyes if they arent already fully open.

If your not sure what a wiped cam is, or what one looks like, educate yourself and then have him show you yours. A simple google image search should show you enough pictures of wiped cams to show you. Its not rocket science, if its wiped you can see it just as easy as anyone else with two eyeballs. The lobe should be hard, smooth and shiney, almost chrome like in appearance. Small pits in the surface are fairly common, as are sometimes lines or grooves, although they should not be excessive. Look also at the follower shim surface to see if its damaged as well. If its rough or blackened thats another thing.

But here is the thing, too, the cams can be replaced with the motor in the car and there is no need to add a valve job into the work, they are two seperate things. And its got four seperate cams. If you have a bad one, it can either be repaired, or you can call around and possibly find a used one. Or buy a second set and after your cars running, get the bad one replaced/repaired, and sell the set on eBay or something and get your money back. Heck, if its a 78 or newer carbed car, you might enjoy a set of early cams? You might actually improve the cars performance while your blowing all these big bucks.

 

Personally, without knowing the mechanic or what service you had done, I think you are getting a tall tale.

Did the guy remove the cam covers as part of your maintenance and actually LOOK at the cams? If so, they should still be visible, right? He wouldn't tell you all this, then button it back up. Go take some pics of this supposedly bad cam and post here. Let the experts chime in. Cams can be reground. If one cam has an issue, it can be repaired or replaced. At that point, some valve clearances need adjustment, but its a piece of cake once you're in there. This doesn't seem like a big deal.

Birdman

 

I think your key phrase may be...

"As always, the bill crept up with a new clutch, motor mounts, hoses, brakes, etc.... "

Parts don't just wear out faster because it is a Ferrari.

 

second opinion - or drive as is.

 

Sorry to hear about the problems! I'm glad to hear Carlo was able to explain it better. I've learned after being there a few times that if he says it needs to be done it really does.

Is it really going to be cheaper to buy a whole new motor? It could be if you can find a good deal on a decent motor but I'd be afraid of winding up in the same shape with the new one.

You don't want to ask my opinion about winding upside down on a car though, I'm so far upside down I can't even see "up" anymore!!

I wish you the best with whatever you decide!!

 

I wouldn't pay extra for a QV motor. They cost alot more and then the car is gonna be an '80 with a 83-85 motor. That will always bring up questions and suspicion and seem off to potential buyers. Call me crazy but i couldn't tell a difference between the two motors. Both felt like sports cars but not performance cars. That motor at rutlands is 9k prolly another 3 or 4 to get in and running. So 12k to 14k if you go that route.

Your mechanic can't redo the top end for less than that?..a lot less?

 

it sounds like a journal has been damaged, it may be possible to weld up the journal and re-bore and hone it than replace the entire engine. I'd talk to Robert and see what he says, http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142391

if he can fix it it'll save you at least 12k. I think the t-rutlands rebuilds are 12k~15k not to mention the shop cost for putting it in. the PO dropped in a rebuild from rutlands back in 2000 and the total was 17k and that was for a 2V!

 

whats the best way to plumb the accusump oil acumulator on a 308. its easy on old V12s with the oil controll towers and all my cars had them. 308s are not just plug and play and they are big medicine for cam wipe.

 

And remember too, either head can be pulled with the motor in the car. Its a ***** doing the front one, but it can be done.

However, with a wiped out cam journal from previous work, its probably good advice to pull it out, pull the heads, drop the gearbox, and do a good inspection. Yeah, your gonna be upside down. But the cars are appreciating, and in the end you will know what rolling around in the back and have a trustworthy car. Thats worth a lot too. Just because you buy a $40K car instead of a $20K car wont always mean you have a better car. It might just be looks.

And speaking of appreciating, anyone notice the prices on 2V injected cars in Cavallino? They have been listed with a top at $60K for the last few issues, when even a QV is only $50. I thought initially it was a typo, but after another issue you have to wonder.

 

Nick (or that guy down in NZ?) has that new improved baffle system for the oil pan. Everyone says it works flawlessly. I thought about an accusump but didnt like the stories about dumping an extra 3 quarts into the pan for the crank to plow through.

 

I still say rebuild your motor, the cost is cheaper and it'll be done right. the rebuilds from rutlands are not what you think. if any part passes inspection it is reused, valves, shims, pistons etc.. when rebuilding your motor you have a say in what is replaced.

lets say the short block is good, so you keep your pistons, rods and crank. have the heads re-done and new bearings, gaskets etc.. you're half the cost of a used rebuild. and you have a list of what was done. don't misunderstand I'm not saying the Ted has bad motors, I've talked to him and the builder, but there is no 'sheet' of parts or what was done and according to the re builder they only replace what is absolutely needed. if it was my money I'd rebuild the motor myself.

I just dug up the receipts, 7k in labor to R&R the engine. you're going to have to have to have the trans split from the engine either way, so why not keep the original number matching block?

 

I've got a reciept from Ron Tarkin showing $900 to seperate trans from engine on my car. That's before they went to work on synchros.

 

+1

 

If you're working with Carlo at Alfa of Tacoma, I'd definitely trust him to fix your car properly. Carlo did all of the work on my 308 before I moved to MN. Granted I never had any serious problems with mine but he did excellent work and I trust him completely. If I move back to Seattle in a couple years, Carlo will once again work on my baby!

Paul

 

You can't go wrong there!