Scissor Jack

You may have some access issues removing the rear subframe. The lift itself probably gets in the way when lowering the subframe.
I recommend a MaxJax lift. I have one and it is a great compromise for a two-post lift in a small garage.


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Interesting to see if anyone has experience with this lift. I bought a used maxjax for my 348 but it took up too much space in my garage.

Have a friend with a scissor lift and we got my car on it but the way the arms were positioned we couldn't drop the cradle.

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I Have a max jax worked just fine, but you can do this job with floor Jacks if you wanted no need for a lift.

 

I think you can... after seeing MAD828 do it in his thread... wonder if he can elaborate on it.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/493751-1995-f355-gts-restoration-major-service-34.html

i've got an inquiry in with a cartar vendor.

sjd

 

I think maxjax might be the way to go, then. the cartar "lift the car, then wheel it around the shop had a definite appeal to me.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200386167_200386167

sjd

 

That lift and the one the OP posted but have small extendable arms - I think that is the key.

If you have the ceiling height, I would get a real 2 post and be done

 

As long as you can support the car ahead of the cradle, then you have enough clearance. The problem with that is 1) the platform is kind of skinny and you end up supporting the weight of the car under the fuel tank, or just ahead of the fuel tank. 2) there are no solid lift points under the fuel tank, or forward of the fuel tank. 3) you also need to remove the shift rod from the selector to the gearbox, and that runs right where the platform is going to fit under the car.

As long as you can solve those, you are good.

For those reasons, the maxjax works but the midrise lift probably won't The 2 post and 4 post lifts work

 

No problem if it's an F1

For a gated car, that could be done via jack stands before putting on a lift. But, I'm lazy and like to work smart not hard

 

I have the MaxJax mx6. It is essentially the same but it has a ratcheting lock system which mechanically locks the lift every 4" or so. The standard MaxJax has only two positions for the mechanical lock.

The big thing with any 2 post lift is making sure your concrete is AT LEAST to the recommended specs. MaxJax specs a 4" thick 3500psi concrete slab. This is typically the bare minimum in newer construction residential garages. But you must confirm and it must be free of cracks and you can't put the lift within 6" of a crack or seam.
Another thing to concern yourself with is the anchor system. The MaxJax comes with concrete anchor and if I was doing it again I would use an epoxy set concrete anchor instead of the mechanical anchor. Small quibble.

I debated between a mid-rise scissor lift and the MaxJax (my garage is only 9"). At the end, the winning point was access under the car. The scissor lifts have limited under car access.




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MaxJax is great. I highly recommend this for anyone who has low ceiling height and a good concrete floor.


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I recommend you go over to garagejournal.com and read the lift threads. Lots and lots of great info.
I think you'll conclude that a scissor style lift is convenient but has very limited access under the car. It's darn near impossible to remove a transmission from a front engine car.
I really doubt you can remove the subframe on a f355. It's not just access directly under the car it's getting be subframe lowered. The lift base is in the way.


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I have used that lift for an engine out with a Porsche 930, and a testarossa. Works fine, no issues.

Not sure about a 355... folks have used it on Boxsters, and that's midengined too...

 

There is that pesky shift rod under the car...

The 930 shift rod is inside the car, and the boxster shift rod is ... a cable.

 

Did you notice that a lot of online pictures of this jack show wooden ramps or planks to provide additional clearance? I have the smaller Quickjack and have problems fitting the larger supplied rubber blocks under the rear, and the smaller blocks compress, allowing contact with the undercar panelling inboard of the jacking points. Also, they call the jack "portable", but even the Quickjack halves are a handful.

Be careful when you lift the car, even with 20" lift, an open engine lid comes close to hitting lower garage ceilings

 

You have to make ramps... None of these cars clear otherwise...

For the money, that mid rise lift is golden...

 

I would agree with that... however, an alternative to making ramps is buying these:

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Ramps-RR-CLR-4-Lift-Pair/dp/B00QLP7MP4/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1497360351&sr=8-41&keywords=race+ramps

I have a scissor lift and I can confirm that the engine out procedure works on that lift... quite well actually

DF
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I like to position my car as close as possible central to the lift. Usually, I make some adjustments with the car in N and push by hand. Then I jack up and place boards under the wheels to swing the lift arms. Yes, it does take a little time but not a big deal.
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Df what lift is that?

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Interesting. Not sure if you have a newer or older version but Mohawk did make lift arms that drop down after the pivot, so flush to the ground when lowered all the way.