Hi chaps Was in Belgium last week at Spa and we saw some BIBLICAL rain. Just horrendous. Needless to say, it wasn't ideal for the car. I had a track session booked and the car was fine but periodically I had an instant solid SDL, Check engine light and cut all power at 6k rpm. Below 6k it was totally normal and drove fine. Above 6k, it would begin chucking the SDL and CE lights (but not always). I'm assuming I've had some water get into the cat ecu's or the connectors and short out some connections? Got the 2 ECU's (Euro car) in the oven as we speak to dry out and then will silicone the edges (although can't see any cracks) and also check the connector pins are dry etc. Anyone else had this issue?
A clients car was doing that a few years ago. A wire in the harness to one of the crank sensors was fractured. The vibration generated by a specific RPM range caused the circuit to open. The sensors themselves can do similar. The harnesses in the 355 were not made by the best contractor Ferrari ever used. At this age wiring itself is getting old and breaking down. Other manufacturers have had similar problems with harness suppliers. Mercedes had a famous issue a number of years ago with one of their models and caused a need to replace all the harnesses under warranty. Copper very expensive and wiring is a place all of them are looking to save money.
Fair point, if the problem persists, I'll jack it up and look at the crank angle sensor as well (thankfully that's not impossible to access from below)
I had a similar problem, as the car reved over peak TQ (5.5K) at full throttle the engine would go rough and throw SLDs. Traced it down to the fuel pump not supplying enough pressure to injector rails. The rubber around the pump had degraded and clogged it up. At less than full throttle the thing ran just fine.
I had a similar problem a few years back. No SDL or CEL but the engine would break up at 4k. Turned out to be a broken wire in the harness just at the point where the wire was crimped to the 3 pin connector. Since the insulation on the wire extends into the crimp the wire was held in place and still made good contact until it hit 4k. I found it by pulling off the boot and pulling on each wire. The insulation on the broken wire stretched like a rubber band. Trimming the wires and installing new pins in the connector with good crimps solved the problem. Seems similar to Brian's case.
So, I removed, dried and re-sealed the cat ECU's but the problem persists. Listening to experience above, I think my crank position sensors will be the next port of call. Question - can you get to both of them through the wheel arch (the side without the oil tank) or is it from underneath only?
You should google for pictures of the engine that you have which will show the position of the crank sensors.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Underneath looks like the only way (as you will probably need to access the connectors)
Is the image above flipped? Pretty sure my alternator is on the right (oil tank side) and ac compressor on the left?
Anyway, all academic for now. Off to have a hip replacement this morning, so crawling under the car isn't going to be happening for a while...
Sorry, I was thinking 348. 355? 2.7? 5.2? 5.2 is at 3 o'clock Image Unavailable, Please Login Anyway, good luck with the op.
Update. Hip replacement appears to have been a success. Attempted to get under the car today but I couldn't see an easy way to get the old sensor out. I guess I could remove the aircon belt but it just got too much of a faff. Long story short, I hit the existing sensor with some brake cleaner, undid the plug and sprayed contact cleaner on it. Hey presto - all fixed!
Glad to hear everything went well.... car and hip Thankfully, some things are easier to fix than others.
