Seat Potentiometer Repair....NO GLUE!!!...PICS

Last summer, my top/seats failed to coordinate their movements when lowering or raising the top. I have been able to control the seats manually as well as operate the top using the bailout switch in the center console, but it is the seat potentiometer which allows this to proceed automatically.

The seat potentiometer communicates seat position to the ECU, which then sends info to the top and seat motors. Without a functioning potentiometer, some have experienced paralyzed seats, top, or both.

Many thanks to Roadracer 311 for the detailed repair instructions for the 355 spider seat potentiometers. I used his repair method for the most part, but modified it a bit for those who would like to avoid using any adhesives.

See link for the info on access, testing, etc.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/288373-fear-not-seat-pot-potentiometer-how-rebuild-one-without-removing.html

Tools you will need:

6mm allen driver to remove seat bolts (IMG 1)
Ratchet, extension
T-15 torx bit to remove pot from seat assembly.
Wire cutter to remove zip-ties if present.
Electrical multi-tester or ohmmeter
Needle nose plier
Drill (preferably a drill press)
Vise
1/16" (0.625") drill bit (preferably new)
1/16" X 1/4" steel dowel pin
Headlamp or someone to hold a light for you.

First you must remove the seat track bolts (IMG 2 & 3) The seat will need to be moved forward to access the rear seat track bolts. Do not forget to unplug ALL wire connectors prior to lifting seats out of car.
Removal of the seat from the vehicle is probably easiest with the seat in the full aft position, which also gives greater access to the potentiometer (white) and seat motor (black) connectors. (IMG 4)
Then follow Roadracer's instructions on how to dissasemble the potentiometer assembly.

As you can see in image 5, a previous owner repaired this using epoxy. This lasted at least a year (duration of my ownership prior to the top malfunctioning). I guess its possible that the repair was made some time ago. Either way, the epoxy failed eventually, as this is a moving part.

Once the assembly was apart, I drilled a 1/16" hole across the equator of the ball which fits into the white plastic piece. (Image 6)

Then, I used needlenose pliers to press-fit a 1/16" by 1/4 inch steel dowel into the hole. It is important not to exceed 1/4" length so the pin does not extend past the white piece. It is also a good idea to enlarge the spaces in the white piece the pin will be passing through.

Once the pin was in, I snapped the two pieces together (IMG 7) and re-assembled the pot. As you can see, the pin wil prevent independent rotation of the gear and the white clip. (Img 8)

I recommend looking up the values in kiloohms for the various seat positions. For example, in the full forward position, the reading across the pink and yellow wires should be close to 4.4.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Ok. Just gave it a few cycles this morning and so far works mint