SETTING CURB IDLE ON '76 308

1. Assuming that the carburetors have been synched on my euro '76 308, how do I set the final curb idle? There seems to be two adjustments that involve the cable and I can't figure out which one rules, or if one gets set before the other. I've enclosed pictures of the two adjusters that I believe set the curb idle. Adjusting the M8 nut (13mm wrench) that is forward most, and denoted w/a red arrow, does not seem to change anything. Is it the rear most adjustment that I have circled in red in my photo? Specifics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve.

 

Thanks so much for all of the prompt and helpful input. A little history here might help a bit. I bought this car from Gooding/Driver Source where the carburetors had been set up about six months prior to my purchase. So I have had the car nearly 18 months or better with no problems whatsoever. Idled nicely at 1,000…right where I like it with A/C. This accounts for my assumption that the carburetors were synched, though I admit it was an assumption, and I did not know that with certainty.

About six weeks ago, the car stumbled when pulling away from the light or a stop. It also seemed to be down on power, and it idled at about 750. I reasoned that the accelerator pumps might be performing poorly and perhaps the idle jets were dirty or clogged. So, I cleaned all those parts, and the accelerator pumps acted perfectly by just cleaning the nozzles. I did not replace the pumps per se.

The car continues to idle at about 800 and I'd like to see it idle like it did before, at 1000. I admit in front of the entire peanut gallery that I was trying to take a shortcut to just bump the idle up a few hundred without going through a whole big to do. However, I was quite well aware I might get caught cheating. You nailed me trying to dodge a lot of work!

I've read several articles (including Birdman’s excellent tutorial) about synching the carbs on this car and it looks like it may be beyond my capabilities, though I have an SK flow meter and have successfully set the carburetors on my Daytona and GTC.

Thanx again. steve

 

Yes, when I cleaned the jets, emulsion tubes, accelerator pump, etc. they were all cleaned in the ultrasound cleaner. They were blown out with a high-pressure hose. They were poked and prodded with diabetic needles that my cat loaned me, and I checked them to make sure light would pass through. I'm pretty sure they're clean.

Always a cheater, this morning I turned both "throttle opening adjusting screws"; 1/8 of a turn CW. With the exception of one barrel, which read 5, all the others read 5 1/2 to 6 on my synchrometer. Yes, I know this is supposed to be done with all the linkage disconnected. However, once you do that, you still recheck them with the linkage in place. Getting the flow meter crammed in to read the forward most barrels did not instill great confidence, but I believe the readings are reasonably accurate. I will drive the car soon, but first must put the air cleaner back on, at least to some degree to see how she runs.Thanks again everyone for your help and comments. Steve