Does your clutch disengage totally? Do a test: Stop you car in gear, with your foot on the clutch and engine running. Then push the gear lever to neutral and watch the rpm. If it doesn't change, your clutch disengages totally. If your rpm rises slightly, your clutch doesn't disengage properly. Engine off and standing, or driving? Test 1: Foot on clutch, engine idle, stick in the center. Wait for 20 secs. Still crunches? Test 2: Foot on clutch, engine idle, go in first first, then reverse. Still crunches? ... that kind of makes sense Is that when your problem started? And the problem started after the shaft seal replacement? As it should, there is a centering spring. Yes.
I was wondering on that too, thx again for confirming! Like I mentioned earlier I too have problems shifting in 1,2 and 3 when it is cold. With cold I mean around zero degrees. If I put it in the garage where the temp does not get lower then 16 degrees then I only have only a 2nd gear issue. I think it is the oil in our case that simply cannot escpae, but I am curious on the results of the actions Afterburner mentioned.
Hi Mondial 1985, going back to your problem on end of page 1. With the engine off it is not always possible to select all the gears when static, this is normal, indeed most times you can get the gears but not always. I must confess I'm not familiar Ferrari gearbox linkages and or how they are setup, but it does sound to me as though your 1st 2nd gear linkage is defective or worst still you may have broken the selector fork if you have been trying too hard to get it into those gears. Selector forks are bronze and can be broken off with a bit of gear shift lever 'abuse'. Hopefully it's not that but the fact that you can't hear or feel the selector rings shifting 1st and 2nd when you move the lever means it's probably one of these things. Hopefully it's just a selector adjustment, all the best, Bell.
True on the forks and it passed my thought as well, I didn't want to go into those detail as you will find out when you take off the transmission pan to adjust the linkage.
Hi Folks, I spoke to Peter today regarding his problem and made this video very quickly out in the dark and the rain. The idea was to show how easy the gears should be to select, also the clutch pedal travel and finally the clutch slave arm travel as seen through the wheel arch. I also attempt to explain that a lightly dragging clutch will make gear selection difficult with gears not going in properly and possibly jumping out. A more heavy dragging cltuch would prevent gear selection all together, with gears making a crunch etc. Peter said that his car does move forward when a gear is selected with the clutch pressed and that the bite point is only cms off the carpet, which sounds like a dragging clutch. So this is the main reason for this video, but also the begining is showing how easy gear selection should be, heavy use of the gear lever will result in bent or broken selector forks, so if you have a gear selection issue go easy or else it may cost you dear.... Anyway here is the video, if anything seems unclear please say and I will change it. Regards, Bell Bloke. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaDkJBuZ7aM[/ame]
Very nice video! If the 'bite point' is that low the clutch possibly needs bleeding? It can be that simple. The clutch not fully disengaging could be very well the root cause of the shifting problems.
Hey Bell that's amazing! Thanks so much for the video, it really does help a lot. It looks like it's a dragging clutch as you suggested. What would cause it and how do I fix it? Just to let others know as well, with the engine on from cold and clutch pressed all the way down it won't go into gear but the car nudges a bit like it wants to move as I try to force the lever in. When I finally get it in first it will pop out of gear as I change to 2nd and similarly pops out when I go from 2nd to 3rd. After a very very long drive it eases up Does this still sound more like a dragging clutch than the silent block bushes and alignment? Thanks again, great video well presented! Oscar nomination
Good indication that the clutch is not disengaging properly. It doesn't crunch because 1st is synchronised, whereas reverse isn't.
As long as it doesn't pop out when you trail the accelerator I think that is still quite normal. Mine does that too, a little. I always hold the lever on the way out so it doesn't pop into the neural plane to quickly.
Yes, clutch drag. Pump it a few times to see if the pedal moves up "higher" and the crunch/nutch goes away in first. That would indicate a bad seal either end. Next I'd bleed it properly.
Nice video Bell! Always nice to see which non Ferrari tools we can use Cannot agree more I know for sure I do not have a worn clutch since I have a new flywheel and clutch kit 1000 miles back and I have the same issue as Peter. However only when the engine is cold and the temp outside is lower then 5 degrees. What Peter and I have in common is that we both have a new slave cylinder. I do not have the original and I believe Peter doesn't either. @Peter, do you have an original slave cylinder? If not, where does it come from? (Mine comes from SuperFormance and was 99 GBP) The piston diameter is somewhat bigger then the original from what I recall. This has effect on how much room the lever is being pressed down on the bell housing. It will be pressed somewhat less deep since you need more fluid the travel the same distance. I have another clitch as my Original fork/rod of the slave cylinder was cut.. I am not sure how long the original should be so we made it adjustable. Yes, could be, but unlikely in Peter's case. You would have a problem immidiately and not all off a sudden coming up after having no issue. It can be a leak of the sealings in either the master or slave cylinder. Since Peter has a new slave cylinder you have a high chance it is the master cylinder. I revised mine. Old rubber causes a lot of issues with old cars and is always the first thing I do. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Afterburner, I am away on business until the weekend and when I get back I will test your suggestions and get back to you with answers to your message yesterday. Thanks very much, appreciate it.
Hi Gents, might I suggest that any kind of jumping out of Gear is not normal, you should not need to hold the gearstick ever to keep it in Gear. Also I have a new slave cylinder from superperformance and it works perfectly with no change in adjustment. All I did was use the original Ferrari rod, and the bite point was the same. I do actually like a lowish bite point rather than a high one. A dragging clutch can be, either failing master or slave cylinders or air in the system or bad adjustment and set-up. Hope this helps, Bell
Ok, we can rule out the slave cylinder Do you know by any chance the lenght of the original rod? I think mine is too long at the moment... Agree on the master cylinder. I revised mine and it was in a bad state, but this is definately something to check if you have a dragging clutch.
Hi MvT, mine is now fitted, but what I can do is measure the rod protrusion from a point on the case this will give you a measurement for you to add the rest inside the cylinder to. Just a thought though, isn't that part still available from Ferrari? One thing I forgot to say, as a general note to everyone was that if a car is jumping out of Gear even occasionally and in the absence of a dragging clutch, then it's either linkage adjustment or bent or worn selector forks inside the gearbox. Incidently, driving with your had resting on the gear lever can wear out you selector forks too. This is because you are always putting a constant pressure on the fork in the selector ring groove. Hope this helps, Bell
Still new available indeed. Don't ask for the price though for just piece of rod Ridiculus... My local dealer didn't had it on the shelf and only wants to order it when I buy it, which I understand, else it would have been no problem to measure it. If you can measure it that would be great! At least I would have an indication then as I am clueless at the moment.
Strange that a replica part would have a different rod but yes that could be a problem. Bell, (Mr. Spielberg) what made you use the original rod? Did you notice it was different? Thanks.
These are two different parts replacement slave cylinder and original rod. The slave cylinder of SuperFormance is not a replica, but one most close to the original. The piston has a 0.5 difference in diameter compared to the original. As far as I know there are no replica rods. I looked for it since the original has a price of 200 GBP. EuroSpares has them listed for 1/4 of the price, but did/does not have them in stock... Mine was cut due to a Fiat cylinder used, which had a waaaaay different piston diameter. Altering these things is asking for trouble unless you really know what you are doing. Since I only had a cut one I made it adjustable, but not knowing the original length of the rod. I think the lenght of mine is too long causing this issue. In your case the suspicion lies in the master cylinder. Like Afterburner said, push the clutch peddle a few time to see it engages. Revising the master cylinder is only 10 GBP of rubber when you do it yourself. If you can't, then a new master cylinder would cost you the same. Ask the old part back and sell or keep it. Oh my!! That is more then I asked for, but I am not objecting! Many many thanks Bell! that is highly appreciated. Beers are on me when you are in Amsterdam. @Mark, sorry that we are highjacking your post. In your case it might be adjusting the linkage or a broken selector fork.
OK, here is the video, I don't know why I made this I could have just given you the measurement, ha ha. Oh well, at least Peter can see how to get to the slave unit. All the best, Bell. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jue_r1vdkJs]Clutch Rod Remove Measure - YouTube[/ame]
That's great! Many thanks Bell! It is longer then I thought it would be. I now have something to measure up against. You have brought fchat to a higher level with these videos Ps, sorry to hear it was raining. Tomorrow it is my turn to be in the rain to measure the rod since our garage is occupied with an engine out of a Panhard.
