Shift rod tube across oil sump | FerrariChat

Shift rod tube across oil sump

Discussion in '206/246' started by jselevan, Dec 2, 2009.

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  1. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,873
    #1 jselevan, Dec 2, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2009
    Has anyone removed this tube that guides the shift rod across the oil sump? If so, any suggestions or pitfalls? Thanks. I prefer to avoid the chest pain that I surely will experience should I undertake this project and have it leak upon completion. I plan on refreshing the O-rings. The engine is on the stand.

    Jim S.
     
  2. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    Feb 13, 2005
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    Jon Gunderson
    That's funny. I was working on the gearbox today and wondered if that came out.
     
  3. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,873
    #3 jselevan, Dec 3, 2009
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
    Hi Jon - yes, it comes out. I was advised by a Master Ferrari Tech that it is prudent to replace the two O-rings while you have access. There is an O-ring on each end where the tube is supported in each wall. To remove the tube you will need a slide hammer (and a large soft washer to protect the end of the tube). It is pressed in rather tight. There is a very thin swedge ring around the tube at the transmission wall end. This will come out with the tube. Take care once out not to damage it. (read below about care upon reinsertion)

    It is easy to replace the single O-ring inside the tube at the outboard end. This seals the shift rod from leaking transmission fluid. The two outside O-rings seal passage between transmission, engine oil, and the garage floor. I tried to replace these rings with two from a standard metric set that I have, but mine were too thick and were shaved off upon my first attempt to reintroduce the tube.

    I cleaned up the transmission-end bore and the O.D. of the tube with fine sandpaper. It had become scarred with lines formed in the aluminum housing by the swedge ring. Be careful not to clean up too much as this tube must have a tight fit to avoid it sliding with shift rod movement.

    When reinserting the tube, use a piece of copper wire or wire wrap, or a plastic Zip Tie, to compress the swedge ring while it begins to enter the transmission wall bore. If you don't you risk bending the leading edge. Keep it compressed until it is captured by the wall bore.

    Oh, by the way, to remove the tube you will have to remove the pivot plate for the shift actuators (four 10 mm nuts and washers). This is easy. Then you will have to remove the control-end of the rod that is held on with a cinch bolt. Also easy. It is rather easy to get to the tube and remove when the transmission is out.

    Jim S.
     
  4. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    #4 omgjon, Dec 3, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I followed your step by step procedure and out it came. Thanks Jim!
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  5. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,873
    Perfect. Was it in there tight?

    Jim S.
     
  6. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    Very tight. The preloading did the trick.
     
  7. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
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    For those interested, the preloading Jon refers to is to use two angled crowbars to gently apply tension on the tube as an assistant applies shock with the slide hammer. The preload assists the hammer quite effectively.

    Jon and Tom - I have a dilemma (problems have solutions....dilemmas have horns. And I'm hooked on the horns of a dilemma). I need your assistance.

    When I lowered my oil sump pan and attached baffle system into the crankcase (upside down), I failed to pay attention to the position of the "gates". These are the hinged gates that allow oil to slosh in one direction only. I awoke in the middle of the night in a cold sweat with chest pain....

    Might you take a look at your baffle system to see if the oil pickup tube and strainer will interfere with gravity and the desire of these gates to return to their correct position when upright? I am fearful that they will not be able to close.

    I, of course, was efficient enough to re-seal the sump plate with gasket solution and torqued the 6 mm nuts. To correct this situation I will likely have to remove the system and again clean the mating surfaces. Ughhh.

    Thanks. I tried to determine this from the parts book, but without success.

    Jim S.
     
  8. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Jim, on Tav. 2, it shows that the gate opens from passenger side to driver side, part #25.
    hope this helps. Regards, Alberto
     
  9. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

    Nov 2, 2003
    1,873
    Smart people learn from their mistakes. Really smart people learn from other's mistakes. Well, you guys are going to be really smart.

    I was able to reach in to the oil sump area from the open end of the engine. The intermediate plate is off. I could determine that one of the gates was correctly located, but that the other plate was captured open. Hence, I had to remove the oil sump baffle and plate once again. Had to clean the surfaces. And now await a new gasket.

    Lesson - when inserting the oil plate and associated baffle, make sure that the hinged gates are positioned correctly. This only applies if you are working with the engine upside down. The Celestial Design Committee subcontracted the development of Gravity to Murphy.....!

    Jim S.
     

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