Shocks - rebuild originals or buy new ?

if you get the originals rebuilt, do not repaint them if entering preservation.

 

Someone mentioned in a post long, long ago that the stiffer springs gave to harsh a ride.

 

To answer your questions:

1. Realistically no one will care and few will notice if you replace the shocks or re-build the ones you have. New shocks do however come in a different shade of red than original and with different decals. Originals are date stamped so it is cool to keep them with the car if possible. If you go the re-build route send them ONLY to Koni. They will rebuild them perfectly, the price is reasonable, and they paint the shocks the correct period orange with the winged Koni decals. Be sure to replace the shock bushings at the same time of the re-build or you WILL chip the freshly painted shocks installing the bushings.

2. Do not go with the uprated springs as they result in a high ride height that does not settle. I had to swap them out back to original spec because my car looked like a 4x4 even after several drives.

3. Harder bushings are ok but only install rubber ones. The polyurethane ones are harsh and they squeak regardless of what you lube them with. Also be certain to torque all suspension pieces with the suspension fully loaded. If you tighten them with the suspension on full droop they will fail prematurely.

 

I would second all of what you have said except for a few items.

1. 25% uprated springs do not raise the overall height of the car. From memory the spring length is the same. I have them on my car and ride height is fine.
2. Poly bushes don't squeak. Fit the uprated bushes.
3. SF shocks come with the classic emblem/ sticker, you just have to remove the old label which is easier said than done.
4. The original paint is available so you can re-spray them before fitting springs. From memory its a Peugeot colour
5. Make sure you set up the dampers before fitting springs.
6. Be very (very) careful when fitting springs, they are under an enormous load when compressed. If you are unsure or lack the correct press then get a garage to do them.
7. Get the car laser aligned after, you will not believe the difference.
Tony

 

1. Correct the spring lengths are the same but the higher rate means the car does not settle the same as stock once under load and therein lies the problem.
2. I have tried the graphite impregnated poly bushes and lubed the heck out of them. Totally quiet above about 5 degrees Celsius. Anything below that and they creak like crazy. Either way I prefer the ride on rubber bushes. BTW my experience is on a 308 for the bushes
3. Koni re-builds shocks for a little less than the cost of new ones. For that money you get them painted and with the correct stickers. If you can be without them for the few weeks they have them then it is a great option.
All other points you are bang on

 

You might want to reconsider ?
YOU are the one having to drive/live with the results, right ?
Unless preparing the car for resale (where consensus or opinions of others might be more useful), to have all options on-hand and to do it as many times it takes is likely the best way to end up with what YOU prefer.

 

check out the parts at SF, all good quality. I would recommend the 85 shore hardness bushes. But others hopefully will chime in.

Suspension Parts for Ferrari 206 & 246 - Superformance


Be aware that the original paint on the Koni's can be / is too thick in places and they can lock up on the retaining ring.

 

Always a matter of opinion....But, I would stay stock and trust that the engineer at Ferrari knew what he did 40 odd years ago. During the process of fixing my Dino I learned the hard way to always renovate what can be renovated, primarily to keep the cars history and soul, secondarily to save money and to save the anger from finding out you bought crap. What is more cool than having a chassis part with an original date stamp?

I might have the paint code for the correct red/orange color you might need for your shocks if interested.

Best Peter

 

Peter when Ferrari designed the suspension they didn't have the benefit of modern materials, today the quality is much better so I don't know what you mean by stock.

If you buy new Konis then the retaining ring doesn't not slip over the shock body because the paint thickness is to much. This becomes a problem when you are fitting this whilst the spring is under full compression. difficult to explain but only evident when you are doing it. Make sure the retaining ring fits over the shock body before you attempt to assemble, it may need a bit a work beforehand. Just done mine so I know!

 

Peter,

Don't disagree with anything you have said but I am just passing on my experience having rebuild several of these suspension units over the years. The bushings made by various suppliers are all pretty much in keeping with the visual appearance of the OEM part. I never did find the actual spec of the original bushings.

Bear in mind that the job of the suspension bush is also for noise suppression whilst adding a stiffer ride id using the 85 rated bush, I doubt anyone would notice the difference if you drove either set up.

The higher shore rated bush is much superior imo.

Best

Tony