Should I change the Tensioner bearings as well?

Those look nice, and the price is right!

Can you let us know what kind of testing, etc. has been done on them, or how we know they are better than the existing bearing? I'll be doing mine later this year, and need to decide.

 

If it only had 1500 miles on it and it was a $600 bearing would you change it for the heck of it? I wouldnt.

 

The older mechanics say "Even the 50 cent O-ring can breakdown a million dollar machine". The only reason not to is if you replace with sub-standard parts or are in doubts about your own abilities (sounds like you know what you're doing).

When in doubt, replace it (especially with those consequences).

 

The tensioner springs should be looked at and possibly re-greased. After I did mine, the reaction time was 100% better. The grease wasn't as old as the electric window goo, but I was glad I did it.

 

Once you lock down the tensioner, the spring does nothing, so ... I am at a loss as to why the "reaction time" should be better.

 

But since it doesn't cost $600 and more like $150 for the tensioner bearing,
you still wouldn't have it done? I WOULD.

 

The SKF bearings with the blue seals are commonly used replacements for the Ferrari bearings. The SKF number is VKM 22380. The box states Alfa, Fiat, Peugeot etc., but not Ferrari. These bearings are slightly different from the OEM Ferrari bearings. The overall diameter is slightly smaller but they work. I believe all the other dimensions are the same. I have seen factory Ferrari bearings fail fairly quickly due to loosing their grease which you will see deposited on the inner lip of the bearings just under the where the timing belt lays. The bearing assembly uses two SKF ball bearings placed side-by-side. This is the "split" you see. AW was selling bearings without the "split". Ball bearings generally use very little grease from the factory and when this grease is gone, oh well. One of the problems with the grease used is the tendency for the oil to separate from the soap component as it sits as well as the temperature range. The last time I talked with someone at SKF, they stated that they were looking for ways to prevent this from happening and were in the process of using (trying) different greases. When the oil separates, it can escape / exit from the seals. The type of grease used is identified in part of the numbers / letters etched into the bearing at the end if I remember correctly. If you want the best possible grease, try DuPont Krytox. Krytox is the best and very expensive. The problem is getting the grease seals out without damaging them, removing the original grease, putting the correct amount of Krytox in and replacing the seals. SKF feels that once you remove the seals, you must use new ones........which they won't sell to you. So, yes, replace the bearings when you replace the belts. A number of years ago, someone was making / machining the outer housing for the bearings and then installing standard "replaceable" SKF bearings and retaining them with snap rings. Sounded and looked like a good idea. The belts are inexpensive directly from the Ferrari dealer and that is where I go.......to Algar. I would also suggest that as you want "fresh" belts that have not been sitting around, purchase "fresh" bearings that have not been sitting around as well.

 

I would too.

Plus, more importantly, the cost of failure is dramatically different between a t/o bearing and a tensioner bearing. A failed t/o bearing isn't going to cost $20K due to an imploded engine.......

Here's what I put in my mondial a few months back....
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