Simple 355 tensioner setting procedure?

One of the most well kept secret. You follow the factory manual to the letter.

 

Here:
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Remove the valve covers
there are four index marks, one on each cam shaft.
Turn the crank shafts until all four marks line up with their respective notches.
Then, you are approximately at 1 TDC. You can now disassemble the belts and tensioners.

To find true TDC, you need to attach a degree wheel, AFTER you have put on the new belts.

 

You don't need a degree wheel to find TDC, you do this with a dial indicator off the top of the piston. You do need a degree wheel to set timing. Using a dead stop does require a degree wheel but an indicator does not (to find TDC)

 

Set tension per manual.

I double check all my belts and record values with my trusty gates sonic tension meter

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKQBhis1sjk[/ame]

 

Dot on front of crank pulley at 12 o'clock. Look down #1 hole to make sure you're using the right dot.

 

With the cam covers on, you can go by the marks on the timing sprockets but they are not very accurate.

Get yourself an indicator and put the probe down the cyclinder. Rotate crank, when indicator changes direction, you found TDC

To do it perfectly, you need a screw in adaper and well guided indicator probe.

 

The pulleys have marks on the face. They are to be at 12 o'clock. The belt covers have slits at 12 o'clock to see thru. Again, this is a very crude check. You need to get the WSM

 

run the motor sitting on the bench? Or re & re the motor a second time? No
but I do turn the motor over a few times by the crankshaft pulley and check timing, gap and tension.

 

The translation is sketchy but read it in the other languages and it says turn the motor over a few times

 

Forget any marks on cam pulleys. There's no guarantee that they were put back the same way the last time it was apart.

The cam covers need to come off. You'll need a few gaskets. Take a good look at cam seals while you're there.

Do it right or you'll be doing it all again.

Notice how the marks line up in the photo. The timing is at factory spec. This is why you need the dial indicators and degree wheel to get it setup. The marks are only approximate. Sometimes they end up even farther off.
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Tim, how many degrees off was that one? That's the most off I seen

 

Agreed which is why I said crude. He seems to want a very ballpark method but you will see I posted prior to use an idicator. IIRC, he is looking for approx for disassembly. I would (and do) it the proper way with proper tools.

 

Definitely not a DIY for everyone.