Slow down 1/4 warning!

Yes. Until it's resolved you won't be able to enjoy the driving. I'm assuming the engine doesn't seem to be loosing power during these periods indicating loss of ignition is allowing excessive raw fuel into the exhaust system.

Since you have two identical circuits but only one indicates as bad, you best isolate the errant one starting with the easiest thing first. Try reversing the input cables to the cat box. You could swap cat sensors but it's easier to swap cables inside the car where they emerge. Purpose- to see if the blinking moves to the 5-8 slow down light, meaning the problem is actually in the 1-4 bank. Next step, the harder one...swap sensors. If it still stays with 1-4 you actually have moments of fuel burning in the cat. If not, the sensor is giving bad readings and needs replacing. Now then, if you actually have a problem with the fuel injection or ignition cutting out, why is it always on the harder to reach front bank?

 

Congratulations on the t. If Ferrari did the major they may be able to put the computer on it and find the fault.

My understanding is that you can run short distances with a yellow Engine light but a red slowdown is triggered by an overheated cat and means stop.

Our Mondial t sat for 5 years prior to Shelton doing a major service in preparation for the sale. Shortly after purchase we also started getting a check engine light. Eventually the car started loosing power, followed by the slow down light followed by the car shutting down and coasting to a stop. Fortunately after cooling down it restarted. We limped it to an independent Ferrari mechanic and they isolated the problem to an o2 sensor. We were also having lots of other errant warnings. They were solved by cleaning the connectors and checking grounds. After the problem is solved you might want to change the oil due to the possibility of unburnt fuel washing past the rings.


Dave

 

Is there anyway to determine if unburnt fuel does in fact get past the rings and into the oil?

I had a bad misfire recently, I discovered the problem to me a faulty coil wire which I have since replaced. The car is now running properly again.

Should I condiser changing the oil now?

 

Assuming no short in the wire, then your dumping raw fuel into the cats from one or more cylinders. That's not good! No more driving until you take it to a mechanic or troubleshoot it yourself. If your going to do it, figure out which bank it is & then which cylinder(s). If the light doesn't come on right after start-up, then it might be as simple as one plug not firing from arching through the plug extender.

 

I found the source of the problem and corrected it by replacing the coil wire.

Is there a way to determine if gas got into the oil?

Viscocity difference?

 

Check your PM!

Ace