Slow Down Light

Without any catalytic structures, it must just be a false signal. You can swap the two slowdown light ECUs (located inside the RR wheel arch) and see if the "problem" moves to the 7-12 light. Also, if your 1-6 self-test isn't working well every time that would be another sign that your 1-6 slowdown light ECU is just flaky.

 

If it was my car I'd remove the thermocouples and their corresponding ECUs completely, they are not needed on a car without cats or precats. I would also remove the air pump and it's associated hardware, you will have to make a pair of block-off plates to cover the air injection ports in the bottom of the cylinder heads (very easy). Getting all that crap out of there will take 20 pounds of the weight of the car. Removing the cats and precats also reduces weight...the TR need is heavy and anything done to lighten the car is good.

 

I'm not sure about what "machine" would access the codes, but I'd imagine it's a Ferrari-Only item that plugs into the socket located under the left rear fender. The thermocouple ECUs are known to have issues...but it is odd that your light is on now of all times....after a thousand miles without precats or cats. I have a few of those ECUs laying around, if you want I can send you a known good one to try out?

But really....just yank those things out of there!

 

Because they are pieces of cr*p? Seriously, I'm on my third set so you having only one go bad is better than average performance, and yours going "bad" has nothing to do with your changing the exhaust system IMO.

No "codes" in a TR, the slowdown warning light ECU is supposed to turn "on" the slowdown warning light when the voltage from the thermocouple exceeds a certain value (as this thermocouple voltage should be proportional to exhaust gas temperature). Either something has gone wrong with the voltage detection portion or the lamp switching part inside the ECU itself.

 

Forgot to add that a bad (open) connection between the thermocouple and the ECU will also cause the warning light to go "on" so you can try cleaning/reseating the thermocouple connections.

 

I replaced the OEM Thermocouple sensors and the problem was solved (in my case) .....

 

Greetings.. If your running test pipes thru out including pre cats I would not worry about it.. Everyone is right.. these components are flaky and were put in place to also detect exhaust temps so you would not over heat the cats and light up like a torch.. The ecu's are known to be flaky.. I would remove them also but I need to find a cap to close up the thermo coupler hole in the test pipe.. I leave them so I dont have a leak in the system.. I honestly think my ecu's are shot.. at immediate start up my lights do not illuminate at all during self test..

R

 

Maybe when you changed them over to the new system you damaged the sensor or wire.. Still not a biggy.. I would not worry about it..

R

 

For a cap to close up the thermocouple hole you could use a ball-bearing that sits in the tapered-seat of the hole (acts as the sealing element) and then any kind of cap nut. If you use the original cap nut it ought to work best as the hole will center the ball nicely.

 

Cap to close: you could use an old coupler....

 

In just took my car out for the first ride this year, the slow down 7-12 light is on, it comes on the second you start the car stone cold and never shuts off. Mine also has a buzzer that won't go off, is this related to the slow down light?

 

I did try switching the two ecu plugs under the rr fender, the light still stayed on 7-12. One thing I did just do is remove the dash and instrument cluster to re-dye, could I have disrupted something under there?

 

Yes, in normal operation, the wire that the warning light grounds to turn on the red dash light also turns on the buzzer when grounded.

Unplug the warning light ECU 4-pin connectors (you can leave the thermocouples connected), and turn the key "on" (no need to start the engine) -- if the warning light still comes "on" and stays "on", you must have shorted/pinched a wire to ground during your dash reassembly.

 

Update... I traced the wires to the conectors (just above the rear right shock tower), cleaned/taped them up,uplugged and replugged them and now my light and buzzer are gone . I didn't really see a problem, must have been dirty connection... I hope that solves it.

 

Greetings.. that is usually where the problem is.. Glad you found your problem.. Sometimes the ecu's get really flakey.. they can shut down a bank as well.. Drive on brother..

R

 

I thought it might be good to to get a 'speed up' light to replace the 'slow down' light for the Alfetta

 

Have a 93 512TR W/34,000 mi. Have had absolutely no problems BUT, after installing the "Delubozpart", catless test pipes, both of the yellow "Slow Down" lights come on intermittently after only approx. 5 minutes of driving. Mostly they come on during slow or steady driving. Actually had one of the "Slow Down Engine Lights" come on after a run through the gears. Have cleaned plug contacts. No change. Test Pipes have already turned a blueish color. Thermocouples are still located in the "Precats". Car has a "Tubi" Exhaust silencer/Muffler. What should I do next short of removal and replacing the stock Catalytic Converters. Suggestions?

 

Previous post should be "Yellow Check Engine Cyl. Lights, 1-6 & 7-12" are coming on after approx. 5 minutes of operation. A "Slow Down" light only flashed on once for a very short time. Sorry for the mistake.

 

Did you ever solve this problem?

 

NO!!! 512TR is just sitting in my garage. Sure would like to solve this problem. May have to trailer it all the way to Chicago just to get this solved. Car runs great but don't want to run it with warning lights showing. They only come on @ less than 3300 RPM. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

If its Check engine lights, you need to get the codes out of the 2.7 ECU. that will at least give you a hint on what might be wrong.
Do a search on here. plenty of info on how to get the codes from the flashing CELs.